JohnEP

2000 Grand Cherokee (same rear brakes as XJ 2001):


Took off my rear disc/drums. One side shows red powder brake dust in the drum as expected. The other shows black oil/grease all over the parking brake springs / shoes / etc. Is my axle leaking? Bearings? How to tell?


Thanks,
JohnEP

dans98xj

It sounds like your seal is leaking on that side. There should be no grease on the shoes at all. If you have a D35 the seals are pretty easy to change. They are on the axle tube not pressed on the axle shaft like a D44 would be.

JohnEP

Yes, I have Dana 35 rear axle. I watched youtube vid on how to change the rear seal and bearing...

But, I cant get the rear diff cover off: My rear d35 diff cover is flaking very thick chunks of rust. These chunks of rust have swollen up, encasing the bolt heads around the outer lip of the differential cover, and also fuse with the rust coming off the bolt heads themselves (thank you Michigan salted roads). I scraped as much rust off as I can with a screwdriver. Then, a 1/2 in 6-point socket has to be pounded onto each bolt. Some bolts strip when turned. Then, I pound on a 12mm 6-point, and I'm good to go. However, I see no way to pound sockets onto the upper 4 rear diff cover bolts, which have very little clearance from the gas tank. Spent 2 hours trying so far. Further advice appreciated.

Roadrunnr72

If the bolts are that much trouble getting to, you could unbolt the shackles and jack it up by the frame, letting the rear swing down a little. If it's rusted that bad, you may not get the shackles loose either, though......RR

Roler

Couldn't it be a leaking brake cylinder, with the oil mixing with dirt making it look like grease? Since that is a far more easy repair...

dans98xj

Try putting a jack under the unibody as far back as you can go and jack up from there. this should give you clearance to get to the top bolts (the WJ's suck for tank clearance). Hose them down with PB-Blaster before you start wrenching on them too. The thread size on those i think are 3/8-16 you should get your self a new set before you close it all up.

weebur

There are sockets made for your situation. They are made from the same steel as impact socket and have a left hand spiral twist inside. Just pick the right size and tap it on and with a breaker bar, break them loose. I would soak the bolts with PB Blaster after removing all the the heavy rust and smack the nuts with a hammer and repeat the process a couple of times. I have a complete set that I got from Sears (Craftsman) and they have never failed to either loosen the bolt (screw) or snap it off.

antipode

This would be my first guess, brake dust makes a pretty terrible sludge when mixed with brake fluid, or any fluid for that matter. That's why you're not supposed to lubricate things like the star wheel adjusters, it just accelerates the problem.

JBimmolate

cover bolts are 5/16 coarse thread.

Miles

JohnEP

Yes; this will help. I was jacking up the axle (duhh; no wonder it's buried up behind the tank)!! Novice mistake. Thanks guys.

JohnEP

My rear brakes are the kind that have a disc for the main brakes, and a drum for the parking brake. I'm not sure a leaking disc brake caliper could get fluid down into the drum... I do wish this was brake fluid though (for an easier repair). I geuss it must be rear diff fluid? This fluid must also bathe the wheel bearing? It does seem to be a very slow leak....