Wheel bearing/hub diagnosis
#1
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Wheel bearing/hub diagnosis
I have a bad wheel bearing for sure. I get metalic click, pops, wierd noises coming from my front end. My problem is that I would put money on the sound coming from the drivers side. I jacked up the Jeep tonight and checked for play. It was the opposite of what was expected. The drivers side was tight with no play. The passenger side has play. Like I said, I would put money on the sound coming from the drivers side though.
Advice, ideas?
I know the obvious advice would be replace both. Only problem with that is money is tight right now and this is an extra vehicle. It hasnt been promoted to toy yet so it doesnt really have importance to dump lots of money into it.
Also, I have noticed over the past few months that it doesnt like to come out of 4wd very much. ... The wheel bearing noises are MUCH worse if put into 4wd. I would expect such a result, but would the reluctance to come out of 4wd be a hub issue or possibly a diff or tc issue.
Lastly, when coming to a stop slowly as I decel through 2-5mph occasionally (almost only when wet outside) my ABS will start to actuate a little bit. I am told that this is because of the hub/bearing creating play between the wheel/sensor.... Is this true?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Advice, ideas?
I know the obvious advice would be replace both. Only problem with that is money is tight right now and this is an extra vehicle. It hasnt been promoted to toy yet so it doesnt really have importance to dump lots of money into it.
Also, I have noticed over the past few months that it doesnt like to come out of 4wd very much. ... The wheel bearing noises are MUCH worse if put into 4wd. I would expect such a result, but would the reluctance to come out of 4wd be a hub issue or possibly a diff or tc issue.
Lastly, when coming to a stop slowly as I decel through 2-5mph occasionally (almost only when wet outside) my ABS will start to actuate a little bit. I am told that this is because of the hub/bearing creating play between the wheel/sensor.... Is this true?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
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Also, when in 4wd and I decel it seems to have a high frequency vibration. Its almost a hum that is enough to shake the jeep. This and the reluctance to come out of 4wd didnt exist a few month ago before the bad hub/bearing issue but Im not sure if they are the same problem or not.
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Or no play at all...as in dry and bound up. Look for rust around the bearing caps.
I have a heck of a time getting back out of 4WD when the tires no longer match- as in excessively worn at one end.
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Hadn't thought about that... How would one check the u joints though. They don't look very accessible to check without a lot of disassembly.
If they have to little play as mentioned would greasing then be effective or is replacement needed.
If they have to little play as mentioned would greasing then be effective or is replacement needed.
#6
They do look hard to get at, don't they?
What I've done, (I'm not sure if it's the 'proper method' is to basically get one of your hands in there, and try to move things. Push, pull, try to turn the inner shaft ears, etc... Use a long screw driver for leverage and pry on different areas to see if you can get movement. If it turns a little, twists, if it can be pried up or down; it's a good sign that the joint is either done like dinner, or it's not far off.
Ideally there should be no movement. If you try and try, and only get the tiniest of movement, then a good old greasing might prolong the inevitable.
If you need to replace the hub unit, then it's generally a good idea to replace the u-joint at the same time. They aren't much money, and they're so important to have in good running order.
HTH!
What I've done, (I'm not sure if it's the 'proper method' is to basically get one of your hands in there, and try to move things. Push, pull, try to turn the inner shaft ears, etc... Use a long screw driver for leverage and pry on different areas to see if you can get movement. If it turns a little, twists, if it can be pried up or down; it's a good sign that the joint is either done like dinner, or it's not far off.
Ideally there should be no movement. If you try and try, and only get the tiniest of movement, then a good old greasing might prolong the inevitable.
If you need to replace the hub unit, then it's generally a good idea to replace the u-joint at the same time. They aren't much money, and they're so important to have in good running order.
HTH!
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I checked them tonight. There is enough play I can move both slightly with no tools. So I guess I'm replacing two hub and u joints. I may do a Durango steering box while I'm down there
#9
That's what I keep telling myself whenever something like that happens. It helps keep me on the sunny side of sane.
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All fixed! I did the u joints and hubs on both sides. Broke the abs ring on one side so I had to pull the abs fuses.
Night and day difference! Now the only problem is that without all the bumps and noises from the hubs joints and bearings I know I now need bar pin eliminators.
Night and day difference! Now the only problem is that without all the bumps and noises from the hubs joints and bearings I know I now need bar pin eliminators.
#11
*L* it's one thing after another with these lovely little pain in the neck Jeeps, eh?
Some cheap ideas for BPE's are to use stock XJ rear sway bar mounts. they apparently bolt right in, although they turn the shock mount 90 degrees from stock. They're usually just tossed by folks after they lift their XJ's, or can be had from the scrappers for cheap.
Some cheap ideas for BPE's are to use stock XJ rear sway bar mounts. they apparently bolt right in, although they turn the shock mount 90 degrees from stock. They're usually just tossed by folks after they lift their XJ's, or can be had from the scrappers for cheap.
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