what do i need to buy?
09-20-2009, 01:23 AM
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
what do i need to buy?
what do i need to buy to turn my 2000 Cherokee a true 4x4. all 4 wheels spinning. right now its all stock and it has part time hi/low. i would still want to be able to drive it on the roads. i know this is probably a stupid question. sorry
09-20-2009, 08:15 AM
#2
No not really stupid. Most folks learn that they have open diffs and assume (incorrectly) that only 1 wheel is driven in each axle.
Assuming you're rig is in either 4Hi or 4 Lo:
When traveling in a straight line with equal traction on both the left and right sides of the vehicle, all four wheels receive equal amounts of power.
If your rig is equipped with a full time 4WD transfer case (NP242J) the t-case will differentiate and send more or less power passed on the traction available at any given time.
The following links will explain exactly how your open diffs function.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm
So now that you are familiar with open diffs you, lets look at maintaining equal power at all wheels at all time, or locking the axles together for equal at all times regardless of traction or individual tire speed. Lockers are or spools are the devices that perform this function.
The Basics.
Mechanically speaking, the simplest method of locking two axles together is by using a spool type differential. This can be a purpose built differential replacement or a mini-spool that replaces the internal parts of a standard carrier.
Mini-Spool:
Spool:
Another variant is the Lincoln Locker. The name comes from Lincoln welders. This type of locker is DIY or shop-built locker that has the side and spider gears welded together to prevent any differential action by the carrier. While not pretty, they are just as effective as a spool/mini-spool.
Lunch Box Lockers
Small enough to fit in a lunch box. These lockers replace the side and spider gears in an open or Limited Slip Differential (LSD). They mechanically lock the axles together but will unlock when in a turn as long as you are not on the gas at the time. These lockers to differentiate as shown above, instead one side (the non-ring gear side) is disconnected while in a turn. Once the locking side spacers are re-aligned the internal springs push them outboard to re-lock the axle shafts together.
Assuming you're rig is in either 4Hi or 4 Lo:
When traveling in a straight line with equal traction on both the left and right sides of the vehicle, all four wheels receive equal amounts of power.
If your rig is equipped with a full time 4WD transfer case (NP242J) the t-case will differentiate and send more or less power passed on the traction available at any given time.
The following links will explain exactly how your open diffs function.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm
So now that you are familiar with open diffs you, lets look at maintaining equal power at all wheels at all time, or locking the axles together for equal at all times regardless of traction or individual tire speed. Lockers are or spools are the devices that perform this function.
The Basics.
Mechanically speaking, the simplest method of locking two axles together is by using a spool type differential. This can be a purpose built differential replacement or a mini-spool that replaces the internal parts of a standard carrier.
Mini-Spool:
Spool:
Another variant is the Lincoln Locker. The name comes from Lincoln welders. This type of locker is DIY or shop-built locker that has the side and spider gears welded together to prevent any differential action by the carrier. While not pretty, they are just as effective as a spool/mini-spool.
Lunch Box Lockers
Small enough to fit in a lunch box. These lockers replace the side and spider gears in an open or Limited Slip Differential (LSD). They mechanically lock the axles together but will unlock when in a turn as long as you are not on the gas at the time. These lockers to differentiate as shown above, instead one side (the non-ring gear side) is disconnected while in a turn. Once the locking side spacers are re-aligned the internal springs push them outboard to re-lock the axle shafts together.
Last edited by SeriousOffroad; 09-20-2009 at 08:51 AM.
09-20-2009, 08:32 AM
#3
short answer: lockers
long answer:
From the factory most 4x4's arent really 4x4's. Only 2 tires have power to them at all times. Those 2 tires will be the tires with the least traction. A Locker is short for Locking Differential. It allows power to be distributed to both wheels on a rearend or front end. A limited slip can also be effective, but in comparison to a locker they suck, so I won't talk about them here.
What axle should I lock first?
This is probably the most commonly asked question pertaining to lockers. And alot of Variables come into play here, what is the right answer for someone, may be the wrong answer for another person. Generally speaking a rear locker will get you more places than a front locker, others may disagree with this, but it is what i have found in my experience. First off if you have a weak rear axle for the tire size you are running, (ie dana35 on anything larger than a 31" tire) it probably isnt a good idea to increase the stress on the shafts by adding a locker that that differential. Another soft spot which has many opinions is snow travel. People say autolockers will plow in the snow on the throttle, which is true, but if you know how to drive in the snow it is a non-issue.
What locker is right for me?
Well this depends. Much of it is personal preference. I will go through the currently available locker options and you will have to decide for yourself.
ARB AIR LOCKER:
This is a normally open air activated selectable locker. You will need an on board air setup to run it, which makes this one of the more expensive options. How it works is, Once you flip a switch on your dash, a quick burst of air is sent to the locker effectively making it a spool. Flip the switch again and you are back to an open differential. This locker replaces the factory carrier and requires air lines to be routed to it.
DETROIT LOCKER:
This is the king of autolockers, 100% traction when power is applied, and buttery smooth when going around corners. It is a full case locker meaning it replaces the factory carrier.
LOCK-RITE LOCKER:
This is the cheapest of lockers, but that doesn't mean it is bad. Its a simple autolocking type locker, when power is applied power goes to both rear wheels. There are reports of quirky street manners especially in short wheelbased rigs with soft flexy suspension. But everything is a tradeoff. This locker drops into the factory carrier and replaces just the spider gears.
AUSSIE LOCKER:
See lock-rite locker. This locker is virtually the same as the lock rite, but with a better warranty.
OX LOCKER:
This is a cable actuated selectable locker. comes with a very heavy duty diff cover which houses the shift fork and cable end for actuation. Disengaged it is an open differential for excellent street manners, and engaged it is a spool for 100% traction. You will need to also buy a cable the correct length for your application. This locker replaces the factory carrier. There are also now an air locker option and an electronic option for the ox locker.
LINCOLN LOCKER:
Weld yo spider gears and have a spool. do it right and you have cheap traction, do it wrong and you have exploded insides.
I know it's not every locker option, but includes some of the more popular options.
long answer:
From the factory most 4x4's arent really 4x4's. Only 2 tires have power to them at all times. Those 2 tires will be the tires with the least traction. A Locker is short for Locking Differential. It allows power to be distributed to both wheels on a rearend or front end. A limited slip can also be effective, but in comparison to a locker they suck, so I won't talk about them here.
What axle should I lock first?
This is probably the most commonly asked question pertaining to lockers. And alot of Variables come into play here, what is the right answer for someone, may be the wrong answer for another person. Generally speaking a rear locker will get you more places than a front locker, others may disagree with this, but it is what i have found in my experience. First off if you have a weak rear axle for the tire size you are running, (ie dana35 on anything larger than a 31" tire) it probably isnt a good idea to increase the stress on the shafts by adding a locker that that differential. Another soft spot which has many opinions is snow travel. People say autolockers will plow in the snow on the throttle, which is true, but if you know how to drive in the snow it is a non-issue.
What locker is right for me?
Well this depends. Much of it is personal preference. I will go through the currently available locker options and you will have to decide for yourself.
ARB AIR LOCKER:
This is a normally open air activated selectable locker. You will need an on board air setup to run it, which makes this one of the more expensive options. How it works is, Once you flip a switch on your dash, a quick burst of air is sent to the locker effectively making it a spool. Flip the switch again and you are back to an open differential. This locker replaces the factory carrier and requires air lines to be routed to it.
DETROIT LOCKER:
This is the king of autolockers, 100% traction when power is applied, and buttery smooth when going around corners. It is a full case locker meaning it replaces the factory carrier.
LOCK-RITE LOCKER:
This is the cheapest of lockers, but that doesn't mean it is bad. Its a simple autolocking type locker, when power is applied power goes to both rear wheels. There are reports of quirky street manners especially in short wheelbased rigs with soft flexy suspension. But everything is a tradeoff. This locker drops into the factory carrier and replaces just the spider gears.
AUSSIE LOCKER:
See lock-rite locker. This locker is virtually the same as the lock rite, but with a better warranty.
OX LOCKER:
This is a cable actuated selectable locker. comes with a very heavy duty diff cover which houses the shift fork and cable end for actuation. Disengaged it is an open differential for excellent street manners, and engaged it is a spool for 100% traction. You will need to also buy a cable the correct length for your application. This locker replaces the factory carrier. There are also now an air locker option and an electronic option for the ox locker.
LINCOLN LOCKER:
Weld yo spider gears and have a spool. do it right and you have cheap traction, do it wrong and you have exploded insides.
I know it's not every locker option, but includes some of the more popular options.
09-20-2009, 08:52 AM
#4
Full Case Lockers
There two types, Selectable and Non-Selectable.
A Non-Selectable Locker replace the entire differential carrier assembly. It will unlock in much the same manner as a lunch box locker. This is the Detroit fullcase locker:
Selectable Lockers are replacement carriers that when activated, mechanically lock the left and right axleshafts together. This can be accomplished by mechanical means, such as a cable (ox Locker)
Pneumatically, ARB Air locker
Electrically (Eaton E-locker)
There two types, Selectable and Non-Selectable.
A Non-Selectable Locker replace the entire differential carrier assembly. It will unlock in much the same manner as a lunch box locker. This is the Detroit fullcase locker:
Selectable Lockers are replacement carriers that when activated, mechanically lock the left and right axleshafts together. This can be accomplished by mechanical means, such as a cable (ox Locker)
Pneumatically, ARB Air locker
Electrically (Eaton E-locker)
Last edited by SeriousOffroad; 09-20-2009 at 09:03 AM.
09-20-2009, 01:07 PM
#5
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Year: 2000
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WOW.
Instead of snobbish smart@zz answers, you guys explained a lot. I think I am going to like this place. I do hope those smart@zz answers happen from time to time too.
Instead of snobbish smart@zz answers, you guys explained a lot. I think I am going to like this place. I do hope those smart@zz answers happen from time to time too.
09-20-2009, 05:29 PM
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
gotta love these guys on this forum, FrankZ and ktmracer419 are only a couple guys on here that know ALOT about jeeps and how they work, if you ask a question on here its gonna get answered haha
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