crashzx6r

gonna start my custom long arm build...need some input. where should i mount crossmember and will 1 inch solid bars be too small?im using gussets inbetween uppers and lower. and any other tips that you have experienced while building them or seen. i dont need prices, or people telling me to just buy one. i have all the steel i need to build just limited to the 1 inch unless i buy. thanks, by the way any measure ments you can give on arm length, mounting locations like distance from crossmember to front (with reference) thanks a bunch

fivendime

Not sure on the strength, but I would go with a larger tube stock such as 1 3/4" to 2" DOM tubing maybe.

crashzx6r

thats what i wanna use but i have 20 ft of 1 inch solidround stock. im not sure though.

PingPong

1" solid stock isnt realy suitable for building any kind of suspension parts. Problem being most rod ends are at least 5/8 or larger. Meaning you have a total of 3/8 of an inch, that equates into only 3/16 of an inch on either side of the shank. FAR from good. Heck most skid plates are at least that thick.

crashzx6r

im thinking the 1 inch solid stuff would be more prone to bending/warping than a 1 1/2 tubing would be

ktmracer419

yea i wouldn't run that, can't really make it strong AND adjustable. and if you just weld joints or bushings on the ends you wouldnt have too much surface area.

for the lowers i would use 1.75" od minimum and at least a .25" wall thickness.

what style arms will you be building?


arm lengths dont matter much, there isnt a set magical length that works best

fivendime

Yeah I would stray from using it since your running a longer distance. The DOM tubing shouldn't be too bad. Remember the savings your going to have doing it yourself.

crashzx6r

i can get 1 1/2 083 wall dom tubing for cheap. im gonna just use that, i just need to get some measurements now. i know i want my wheel to be centered in wheel well when compressed just not sure of how to get good travel and that maybe its really simple and im thinking to hard...know how it works just wanna make sure i do it as close to what other kits are normally at a far as locations and arm lengths.

crashzx6r

not really sure ive seen many and can tell differences but im not picky just looking for a little guidance in design and locations for crossmember and lengths of arms that would be ideal was thinking something like the rustys long arm setup or simalar,

ktmracer419

MUCH too thin.

if its cheap and you end up running it, imagine how cheap its gonna be when you bend them and send your driveshaft into your transfercase and other possible frontend damage, then build new links out of a beefier material.

y link?

wristed radius arm?

4 link?

3 link?

each system reacts differently, and what you use for link joints/bushings has alot to do with what style arms you want

crashzx6r

thanks, i can get just about any steel cheap but tat stuff is abundant in the shop. i think i meant .83 wall not .083 neways this is the type i want to build i was going to use forged "flex" ends.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit

fivendime

There is allot of geometry involved with correct suspension movement, I would imagine most companies invest in a little bit of research for there parts. You can just make one up and hope for the best which will work, it just wont be the best it can be. Try and measure another companies setup or maybe some one on here will give you a length.

Also on that 1 1/2" DOM. I would suggest one bend with a support that runs to the inner part of the axle. Or a straight run with a support. Either way with that 1 1/2" your going to need some more strength.

ktmracer419

that's a y link or radius arm

easiest setup to build

but you need to use rubber bushings in your design or else you will be ripping brackets off your axle

a1racer

the radius arm style is the most common but i like the 4 link long arm kit from full traction 4 links are going to be stronger then ate radius set up but it could limit some of the flex and i think anything 3 foot to 4 is about in the ball park. if you go to the build thread project eliminator he built his own long arm 4 link that is very strong and built very well you might want to ask him if he can help you any.

crashzx6r

so just normal ends like on most ca's rubber with sleeve. those are much cheaper anyways...lol
i know this might sound dumb but from the pic whith the kit installed it looks like i could build it of theat pic minus the angle for upper mounts on lower arm. the first bend is dead under first turn up in unibody rail, and upper mount welded right at edge of bend on lower arm. lol. at least good reference pic at that, id love to get some exact messurements but i cant seem to find any specs on la kits...go figure