weird noise coming from front end
11-06-2012, 05:31 PM
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Year: 2000
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weird noise coming from front end
So for the past two weeks I have had this noise coming from the front end i believe. It is sorta like a rotating grinding noise, thats the best i could describe it. The floor also vibrates on the driver side and the pedals too. I went under and checked the wheels and such and nothing seems out of the ordinary.Pulled the front DS today and the noise is still there, anyone have any ideas to what it could be?
11-06-2012, 07:04 PM
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Year: 1992
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Have had the same problem since last winter, I still haven't figured out what it is, I've replaced u joints, sway bar bushings and checked for binding all over the front end and found nothing
11-06-2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Lfwnnr
Have had the same problem since last winter, I still haven't figured out what it is, I've replaced u joints, sway bar bushings and checked for binding all over the front end and found nothing
11-07-2012, 01:10 AM
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If it's bad enough to vibrate the Jeep, I'd find the source before driving much more.
Jack the front off the ground, spin the tires and see if you can find it. Brakes, hubs, u-joints, front diff.....
Jack the front off the ground, spin the tires and see if you can find it. Brakes, hubs, u-joints, front diff.....
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11-07-2012, 05:24 PM
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Does this start at any particular speed? Or as soon as you start moving? If it only occurs above a certain speed I'd start thinking about tire balance involvement, could aggravate marginal bearings. If any speed I'd suspect bears and the diff's gears. Brakes are also a factor.
Try this:
- Chock the rear wheels, and get the front axle on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
- Grab the tires at 12:00 and 6:00 and give them a good shake. Movement other than in the radius of normal steering, or in-and-out from the vehicle is abnormal and indicates toast bearings (though your ball joints might be bad too)
- Spin everything by hand, listen for noises, and feel for any grinding. You might want to get a friend to help, say to spin a wheel while you listen to the differential. Also keep an eye and ear on the U-joints in the front axle itself.
- Pop off the front wheels, remove and inspect the brake calipers, pads, and rotors. Check for damage or unusual wear like warping, uneven wear, metal-on-metal, rusted brake contact surfaces.
- If you've never changed the front differential fluid before, now's the time. You'll need some sort of gasket (RTV, paper + RTV, or silicone lube locker type) and 2 bottles of 75w90 API GL-4/5 gear oil. Pop the cover off with the bottom bolts first - leave the topmost in, but loose - and let it drain into a pan. Check what comes out for bits of metal and water. If it looks sparkly or like a milkshake there's the issue. Water isn't really a HUGE deal if caught early. The breather hose on top can rot away (or be eaten by critters) and water can enter easily. Same for axle seals if you take it through puddles up to the hubs. Metal filings indicate wear.
- Once drained, remove the differential cover completely and clean that thing out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then take a peek at the gears and look for chipped teeth, etc. Same goes in here, give things a wiggle, check for any odd movement or grinding.
Try this:
- Chock the rear wheels, and get the front axle on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
- Grab the tires at 12:00 and 6:00 and give them a good shake. Movement other than in the radius of normal steering, or in-and-out from the vehicle is abnormal and indicates toast bearings (though your ball joints might be bad too)
- Spin everything by hand, listen for noises, and feel for any grinding. You might want to get a friend to help, say to spin a wheel while you listen to the differential. Also keep an eye and ear on the U-joints in the front axle itself.
- Pop off the front wheels, remove and inspect the brake calipers, pads, and rotors. Check for damage or unusual wear like warping, uneven wear, metal-on-metal, rusted brake contact surfaces.
- If you've never changed the front differential fluid before, now's the time. You'll need some sort of gasket (RTV, paper + RTV, or silicone lube locker type) and 2 bottles of 75w90 API GL-4/5 gear oil. Pop the cover off with the bottom bolts first - leave the topmost in, but loose - and let it drain into a pan. Check what comes out for bits of metal and water. If it looks sparkly or like a milkshake there's the issue. Water isn't really a HUGE deal if caught early. The breather hose on top can rot away (or be eaten by critters) and water can enter easily. Same for axle seals if you take it through puddles up to the hubs. Metal filings indicate wear.
- Once drained, remove the differential cover completely and clean that thing out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then take a peek at the gears and look for chipped teeth, etc. Same goes in here, give things a wiggle, check for any odd movement or grinding.
11-07-2012, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Does this start at any particular speed? Or as soon as you start moving? If it only occurs above a certain speed I'd start thinking about tire balance involvement, could aggravate marginal bearings. If any speed I'd suspect bears and the diff's gears. Brakes are also a factor.
Try this:
- Chock the rear wheels, and get the front axle on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
- Grab the tires at 12:00 and 6:00 and give them a good shake. Movement other than in the radius of normal steering, or in-and-out from the vehicle is abnormal and indicates toast bearings (though your ball joints might be bad too)
- Spin everything by hand, listen for noises, and feel for any grinding. You might want to get a friend to help, say to spin a wheel while you listen to the differential. Also keep an eye and ear on the U-joints in the front axle itself.
- Pop off the front wheels, remove and inspect the brake calipers, pads, and rotors. Check for damage or unusual wear like warping, uneven wear, metal-on-metal, rusted brake contact surfaces.
- If you've never changed the front differential fluid before, now's the time. You'll need some sort of gasket (RTV, paper + RTV, or silicone lube locker type) and 2 bottles of 75w90 API GL-4/5 gear oil. Pop the cover off with the bottom bolts first - leave the topmost in, but loose - and let it drain into a pan. Check what comes out for bits of metal and water. If it looks sparkly or like a milkshake there's the issue.
- Once drained, remove the differential cover completely and clean that thing out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then take a peek at the gears and look for chipped teeth, etc. Same goes in here, give things a wiggle, check for any odd movement or grinding.
Try this:
- Chock the rear wheels, and get the front axle on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
- Grab the tires at 12:00 and 6:00 and give them a good shake. Movement other than in the radius of normal steering, or in-and-out from the vehicle is abnormal and indicates toast bearings (though your ball joints might be bad too)
- Spin everything by hand, listen for noises, and feel for any grinding. You might want to get a friend to help, say to spin a wheel while you listen to the differential. Also keep an eye and ear on the U-joints in the front axle itself.
- Pop off the front wheels, remove and inspect the brake calipers, pads, and rotors. Check for damage or unusual wear like warping, uneven wear, metal-on-metal, rusted brake contact surfaces.
- If you've never changed the front differential fluid before, now's the time. You'll need some sort of gasket (RTV, paper + RTV, or silicone lube locker type) and 2 bottles of 75w90 API GL-4/5 gear oil. Pop the cover off with the bottom bolts first - leave the topmost in, but loose - and let it drain into a pan. Check what comes out for bits of metal and water. If it looks sparkly or like a milkshake there's the issue.
- Once drained, remove the differential cover completely and clean that thing out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then take a peek at the gears and look for chipped teeth, etc. Same goes in here, give things a wiggle, check for any odd movement or grinding.
11-08-2012, 10:37 AM
#10
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just jacked the front end up and shook the tires, solid as a rock. spun them too and no noise. and everything looks pretty good as well. what now?
11-14-2012, 09:29 PM
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So after reading around, im coming to the conclusion i have bad wheel bearings. Gonna take the plunge on some new timken hubs and bearings soon and get those put on. Hopefully that's the problem
11-15-2012, 11:31 AM
#13
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I'm having the same problem and I'm suspecting wheel bearing. I have tested everything else but the 12/6 wheel test gave me no play. It's gotten worse since though and gets louder whenever I take left turns.
11-15-2012, 06:24 PM
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i have very little, to no play too, but from reading up on bad bearings and what they sound like and all it has gotta be them. im buying some tomken full hubs for both wheels tonight hopefully, and getting them on next week if they arrive in time.
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