want 35s
#1
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Model: Cherokee
want 35s
im rocken the 4.5 rub exp lift what can i add to get 35s uner it... like bigger springs and larger shackles i the back.. i sont want to buy a whole new kit
#3
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Year: 1998 & 1991
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Engine: 98-4.0 & 91-4.0
Edit: To answer the first post, yeah you could fit 35's with trimming/bumptstopping as stated above.
Last edited by Oath; 07-06-2009 at 10:59 PM.
#4
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Ditto; also make sure to use a 8" wheel with an offset that works with the set up. I've had 35s on mine with a 3.25 offset and it seems to work well. It dose rub a littleat full lock and tucked but adding some to the bumpstops and a little more trimming would fix it. Have you thought about gearing?
#5
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L w/ AFE stage 2, bored TB
With anything less than 6" youll have to trim/ bumpstop like a mother. Ask me how I know.
If youre going for looks you might can get away with stuffing them on stock flares and about 5.5" but its tough.
I run 6.5"-7" with trimmed fenders and I clear em well. But with a lot of modifications to accomidate them. Ive trimmed up to where my stock flares used to be and bumpstopped a lot.
It can be done on less lift but its a lot harder and you will have maybe 1" of uptravel LOL.
I only have like 3" up travel in the rear with my set-up. A bit more in the front.
It basically comes down to why you want 35s. For looks or use. If youre gonna use it youre gonna open a whole other can just to make the 35s work with the drivetrain and all. If you want it for looks Id go with a 1-1/2" shackle out back and a 2" spacer up front. If you have an adj. track bar, upper and lower control arms and a SYE. if youre gonna use it save the money on the extra lift and buy some extended bumpstops(hockey pucks for front and steel tubing for the rear) and trim...A LOT!
If youre going for looks you might can get away with stuffing them on stock flares and about 5.5" but its tough.
I run 6.5"-7" with trimmed fenders and I clear em well. But with a lot of modifications to accomidate them. Ive trimmed up to where my stock flares used to be and bumpstopped a lot.
It can be done on less lift but its a lot harder and you will have maybe 1" of uptravel LOL.
I only have like 3" up travel in the rear with my set-up. A bit more in the front.
It basically comes down to why you want 35s. For looks or use. If youre gonna use it youre gonna open a whole other can just to make the 35s work with the drivetrain and all. If you want it for looks Id go with a 1-1/2" shackle out back and a 2" spacer up front. If you have an adj. track bar, upper and lower control arms and a SYE. if youre gonna use it save the money on the extra lift and buy some extended bumpstops(hockey pucks for front and steel tubing for the rear) and trim...A LOT!
Last edited by broncofire75; 07-06-2009 at 11:57 PM.
#6
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as said, you can fit them on a 4.5 inch lift, especially the rubicon express as they tend to have a little more lift than advertised.
but you will experience rubbing when stuffing, even with extensive trimming.
it's easier to trim the front to deal with the rubbing, but the rear is a little more difficult to trim to fit. you will stuff the rear wheel and will probably get you stuck unless you have a rear locker.
here's a pic of mine with 36 inch tires on about 8 inch lift with extensive front trimming. my front tires come about 1/4 inch away from rubbing the cut out when fully flexed.
the rear still rubs at times.
but you will experience rubbing when stuffing, even with extensive trimming.
it's easier to trim the front to deal with the rubbing, but the rear is a little more difficult to trim to fit. you will stuff the rear wheel and will probably get you stuck unless you have a rear locker.
here's a pic of mine with 36 inch tires on about 8 inch lift with extensive front trimming. my front tires come about 1/4 inch away from rubbing the cut out when fully flexed.
the rear still rubs at times.
Last edited by caged; 07-07-2009 at 09:59 AM.
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EDIT: Taking a second to think for myself as a productive member of the human race (you know opposable thumbs, walking upright, communication, yadda yadda yadda), I took a moment to research it for myself and got what I needed. Thanks,
s
Last edited by smtippin; 07-07-2009 at 10:45 AM.
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#8
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i'm sure he means to place the hockey pucks inside the coil spring ontop of the coil spring bucket/perch.
but the only thing with hockey pucks is they tend to become brittle from UV breakdown.
i would just get an extended bumpstop for the front available from any aftermarket jeep dealer.
personally, i don't run bumpstops, i want as much flex as my springs could give. if i rub, i modify.
but the only thing with hockey pucks is they tend to become brittle from UV breakdown.
i would just get an extended bumpstop for the front available from any aftermarket jeep dealer.
personally, i don't run bumpstops, i want as much flex as my springs could give. if i rub, i modify.
#11
my setup is pretty extreme by most peoples standards, but i have plenty of travel and enough uptravel.
progressive rate bumpstops for the win
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