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-   -   Very Violent/Rough Idle (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/very-violent-rough-idle-251375/)

TrayXj 05-11-2019 10:05 PM

Very Violent/Rough Idle
 
Hi! I just replaced my Exhaust Manifold on my 1987 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L 6cyl. When I went to start of the jeep the engine started roaring like I was putting the pedal to the metal. I Immediately shut off the truck, and looked under the hood. There was white smoke coming out from the front of the engine and smelt very bad, like burnt plastic. I than did some research and read that it could be because of a faulty fuel injector. Is this the case? Should I replace the fuel injectors? The fuel injector pigtails are all on the right injector... Please help!

Thanks!

Chick-N-Picker 05-11-2019 10:56 PM

What kind of injectors do you have? Stock?

Also it is common for white smoke to be present right after doing intake/exhaust gasket or new mainfold. Not the crazy high pedal to the floor board though....

jordan96xj 05-11-2019 10:57 PM

No. A fuel injector will not do that. You can't make the motor run faster (higher RPMs) just by having more fuel added. Your motor runs faster (roars) because it is getting more air. Air is likely getting into the combustion chamber from some source other than the throttle body.

When you put on your new exhaust manifold and re-installed the intake manifold, it probably did not sit flush against the mating surface. So air is getting sucked in around the intake manifold. Usually, this is because the rear portion of the intake manifold is hung up on the rear most locating dowel. It is not easily spotted from the front and/or above. But 9 times out of 10, this is the cause.

Chick-N-Picker 05-11-2019 11:04 PM

^ What he said but still if you have stock injectors I would change them to 746 Bosch injectors from a volvo. Othere will work also bit that's what I used.

"......but my stock injectore are fine......"

Until they ain't. When your 3 hours from home and they start leaking at the seams. It isvery easy to change them over. Then if they start leaking all you need is an O ring. Always keep a pack of fuel injector O rings in your jeep, in case they start leaking when your way away from a store.

jordan96xj 05-11-2019 11:06 PM


Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker (Post 3555340)
^ What he said but still if you have stock injectors I would change them to 746 Bosch injectors from a volvo. Othere will work also bit that's what I used.

"......but my stock injectore are fine......"

Until they ain't. When your 3 hours from home and they start leaking at the seams. It isvery easy to change them over. Then if they start leaking all you need is an O ring. Always keep a pack of fuel injector O rings in your jeep, in case they start leaking when your way away from a store.

That's a good tip. I currently do not carry any. I should remedy that.

Cummins93 05-12-2019 06:22 AM

If you cover the throttle body and the engine doesnt die you have a large vac leak. Covering the TB will also make the leak more pronounced. Dont cover the TB with anything that is dirty or can break apart. I use a 1/2 plate of aluminum that I keep specifically for this/runaway diesel.

BlueRidgeMark 05-12-2019 06:33 AM


Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker (Post 3555340)
^ What he said but still if you have stock injectors I would change them to 746 Bosch injectors from a volvo.


He shouldn't be changing anything until he gets this massive problem solved.

TrayXj 05-12-2019 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by jordan96xj (Post 3555338)
No. A fuel injector will not do that. You can't make the motor run faster (higher RPMs) just by having more fuel added. Your motor runs faster (roars) because it is getting more air. Air is likely getting into the combustion chamber from some source other than the throttle body.

When you put on your new exhaust manifold and re-installed the intake manifold, it probably did not sit flush against the mating surface. So air is getting sucked in around the intake manifold. Usually, this is because the rear portion of the intake manifold is hung up on the rear most locating dowel. It is not easily spotted from the front and/or above. But 9 times out of 10, this is the cause.

I just checked it and it sits on the dowels and looks to be flush. I might need to tighten it better since I only used a wrench. I might really need to crank it down

TrayXj 05-12-2019 10:03 AM

I also have the upgraded fuel injectors on the way. I read online that it could be cause of that.

TrayXj 05-12-2019 10:04 AM


Originally Posted by Cummins93 (Post 3555360)
If you cover the throttle body and the engine doesnt die you have a large vac leak. Covering the TB will also make the leak more pronounced. Dont cover the TB with anything that is dirty or can break apart. I use a 1/2 plate of aluminum that I keep specifically for this/runaway diesel.

How do I cover the throttle body?

BlueRidgeMark 05-12-2019 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by TrayXj (Post 3555394)
I just checked it and it sits on the dowels and looks to be flush. I might need to tighten it better since I only used a wrench. I might really need to crank it down

You might need to torque it down properly.

BlueRidgeMark 05-12-2019 10:34 AM


Originally Posted by TrayXj (Post 3555397)
How do I cover the throttle body?


Remove the air duct from the throttle body. that's the plastic pipe that goes from the air box (where teh air filter lives) to the TB. You'll see the TB intake. It's..... (going from memory) in the neighborhood of 3" diameter. Maybe a bit less. It looks like this:





https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...905dbe0bc5.jpg






Now this part is complicated: Stick the palm of your hand over the intake. No 1/2" aluminum plate required. Trust me, it won't suck you in.

Heh. I once got to watch as someone tried to shut down a runaway engine from an M-88 tank recovery vehicle that was sitting on the ground being worked on. We're talking about a twelve hundred cubic inch, 1500 horsepower air-cooled gasser that powers a massive, tank-like vehicle that can TOW a couple of tanks at the same time. The air intake was about 8" across. I know the measurement because what finally worked was a standard clip board, and it barely covered the intake.

That engine ate a t-shirt before someone tried the clip board.

Chick-N-Picker 05-12-2019 11:24 AM


Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark (Post 3555362)
He shouldn't be changing anything until he gets this massive problem solved.

I agree. He mentioned fuel injectors. Was just giving him some advice.....& if the intake wasn't sitting flush and he ended up having to take it back apart, might as well change them while it was back apart......but he said it's flush so he can get to them after he solves this.

:)

Cummins93 05-12-2019 12:45 PM

Anything clean flat and sturdy. It's nice to have both hands free.

TrayXj 05-13-2019 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark (Post 3555408)
Remove the air duct from the throttle body. that's the plastic pipe that goes from the air box (where teh air filter lives) to the TB. You'll see the TB intake. It's..... (going from memory) in the neighborhood of 3" diameter. Maybe a bit less. It looks like this:





https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...905dbe0bc5.jpg






Now this part is complicated: Stick the palm of your hand over the intake. No 1/2" aluminum plate required. Trust me, it won't suck you in.

Heh. I once got to watch as someone tried to shut down a runaway engine from an M-88 tank recovery vehicle that was sitting on the ground being worked on. We're talking about a twelve hundred cubic inch, 1500 horsepower air-cooled gasser that powers a massive, tank-like vehicle that can TOW a couple of tanks at the same time. The air intake was about 8" across. I know the measurement because what finally worked was a standard clip board, and it barely covered the intake.

That engine ate a t-shirt before someone tried the clip board.

Awesome thank you! I will try that, I'll torque down the bolts first than do that second.


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