Upper control arm bushings
 

Doing some searches on line..the 3 or 4 u-tube videos all show pushing the rubber out with the ball joint press. Then they take a chisel and start mashing the open end/not the side with the lip...untill they can pull it out of the mount hole. Is this the best process, or can the whole bushing be pressed out in one shot. Going to try mine...01- 270K. I did them on my 92 15 years ago but don't remember the details...except it sucked

I just did this job a few months ago on my 98. It absolutely sucked. I soaked everything with PB every other day for 2 weeks.

Getting the rubber bushing out was no problem. They pushed right out of the sleeve. Both bushing sleeves go in the same direction. They arent opposite. So what works on one side might not work on the other because different things are in the way.

I had to use an air chisel to get both metal sleeves out. The correct combination of sleeves and spacers with my ballpoint press wouldnt fit in the workspace.

Once the arm was out it took 2 minutes with the ball joint press to remove/install the bushing. No space restrictions.

the new bushing went in easy on one side with the ball joint press. The other side didnt work at all. I ended up using a combination of washers, adapters, and a long bolt to get it in and seated.

removing the driver side arm didnt make anything move. Removing the passenger arm let the axle shift forward a few inches and I ended up having to use a chain hoist hooked to the leaf spring to pull the axle back into place to get the control arm bolt in.

all said and one i give it .5 out of 5 stars. Would not recommend:p

A F-ton of heat on the old bushing... a bunch of cutting, chiseling, etc.... to get the driver's side out on my 95. It was a horrid experience.

I took the tires off and considered pulling the coil spring IIRC.

The winching the axle to get the arm to line up correctly is also a huge consideration. Make sure you have a good spot to do this safely.... the front axle likes to roll forward - in other words, twist so the top is too far forward to line up the bolt, so you need to be able to rotate it or push it the opposite way.

I found that disconnecting the LOWER arms, then aligning the uppers into place and then dealing with the lowers was the easiest way --- note I say "easiest"... it's still a monstrous PITA -- make sure you have plenty of adult beverages on hand and keep the small children out of hearing range when you deal with that stuff.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...05e571ee52.jpg
this was the only way I could get it lined up. A come along would work too. I tried 2 heavy duty ratchet straps I thought I could click one then the other back and forth to inch it up. Absolutely not.

Thank you for the responses...im totally motivated now...lol

If you have an air compressor get a harbor freight air hammer for cheap, saves a ton of time and its actually a decent air hammer. Put the new bushings in the freezer day before you need to install. Minimal shrinkage of the metal makes it a bit easier to install.

You can (I have) got poly bushings that leave the sleeve in place, you just have to remove the rubber inner, have the core UCA as well to replace too

I knew this wasnt a fun job, and been putting it off for ages, the axle displacement issue sounds a bunch of fun

my low tech solution for the LCA was a pairs of jacks under the pans help tilt the front axle to the right angle, and simple tight loops of rope, twist & tighten them up with a screwdriver etc, lined up the bolts with their holes

exerts hundreds of pounds of force, in a very controlled manner, I used 8mm telco poly rope

ancient technology, will drag things forward or back that will amaze you

Or just buy the control arms with the bushings already in them. Then the only ones you have to press out are the easy ones in the axle.

the easy ones are in the control arms. That is a 2 minute job when the arms are out. The ones in the axle are the anger inducing bushings.

I did buy the tubular adjustable UCA with poly bushes in the arms, looks like the bush in the diff is the hard one

I will drill the rubber, burn & press it out, scrape any remaining rubber, hopefully the new poly bushes slip neatly into the cleaned up steel shells

didnt have much trouble lining up the LCA bolts & holes once I worked out the method I described previously, prior to that, they were resisting

It is the ones in the axle assy. I have adjustable top and bottom so the only issues are the ones pressed into the axle standoffs

Man I always found those to be the easiest ones. If the sheet metal one gives you trouble, put a socket in as a spacer so it doesn't collapse on you.