U-Joint/Centering Yoke
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
U-Joint/Centering Yoke
Going to be replacing my Ball joints in another week or two and figured I would replace my axle u-joints while I was at it. Then I started thinking about the driveshaft u-joints and I have no clue when they were done last. I've had the Jeep for 2-3 years now and a local shop replaced 1 of the rear driveshaft u-joints about a month ago but didn't replace any other ones. Jeep as 233k on the meter, 1990.
So I did what I think every other jeeper out there did and thought to myself... well, if I'm going to replace "a" I might as well as replace "b" while I'm at it, which then lead to me replacing c,d,e,f...."
At the moment It appears all my other u-joints are in acceptable condition. Should I just leave them in there till they break or replace the axle ones when I do the balljoints? And I'f I'm going to replace the axle ones should I replace the driveshaft ones at the same time? And if I will be replacing the driveshaft ones should I replace the centering yoke as well?
*edit* I'm thinking this should have gone in cherokee chat, not oem tech. Sorry mods
So I did what I think every other jeeper out there did and thought to myself... well, if I'm going to replace "a" I might as well as replace "b" while I'm at it, which then lead to me replacing c,d,e,f...."
At the moment It appears all my other u-joints are in acceptable condition. Should I just leave them in there till they break or replace the axle ones when I do the balljoints? And I'f I'm going to replace the axle ones should I replace the driveshaft ones at the same time? And if I will be replacing the driveshaft ones should I replace the centering yoke as well?
*edit* I'm thinking this should have gone in cherokee chat, not oem tech. Sorry mods
Last edited by Jakers; 02-06-2016 at 05:12 PM.
#2
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It really depends on how you approach vehicle use and maintenance. My opinion is to leave things until they need servicing or you are pulling it apart for another job. But I also have the benefit of knowing the vehicle's maintenance history since the day it rolled off the dealer lot in 1998.
In the case of the axle U-Joints, you're pulling the knuckle off and probably pulling the axle out of the tube to make things easier. Since the shaft is out, yeah I'd probably do the U-Joints if I didn't know their usage history.
If the front drive shaft U-Joints pass inspection, I wouldn't bother. If and when you do decided to replace them, yes, do the centering yoke at the same time.
Further thoughts: if your drive shaft U-joints are non-serviceable, I might more strongly consider replacing them. If they are serviceable with grease zerks, just grease them and keep on truckin!
In the case of the axle U-Joints, you're pulling the knuckle off and probably pulling the axle out of the tube to make things easier. Since the shaft is out, yeah I'd probably do the U-Joints if I didn't know their usage history.
If the front drive shaft U-Joints pass inspection, I wouldn't bother. If and when you do decided to replace them, yes, do the centering yoke at the same time.
Further thoughts: if your drive shaft U-joints are non-serviceable, I might more strongly consider replacing them. If they are serviceable with grease zerks, just grease them and keep on truckin!
#3
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Year: 1990
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Good maintenance info is just fine in OEM Tech Jakers.
Not enough of it getting done in my book!!!
Not enough of it getting done in my book!!!
#4
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Year: 2001, 1997
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The driveshaft is independent of axle shaft u-joints. It can be a lot less headache to simply take the driveshaft to a driveshaft shop to rebuild the front double cardan. My local Spicer dealer / driveshaft shop will do it for about $10 more than I can buy the Spicer parts myself.
Axle u-joints you might as well replace if you don't like tearing things apart again.
To make it easy to remove the unit hubs in the future, I coat all the mating surfaces with anti-seize. Then they come right out.
I strongly recommend Spicer ball joints and Spicer u-joints. I have had MOOG parts fail in short order. The Spicers are cheaper and last far longer. They are what came from the factory.
Axle u-joints you might as well replace if you don't like tearing things apart again.
To make it easy to remove the unit hubs in the future, I coat all the mating surfaces with anti-seize. Then they come right out.
I strongly recommend Spicer ball joints and Spicer u-joints. I have had MOOG parts fail in short order. The Spicers are cheaper and last far longer. They are what came from the factory.
#5
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Year: 1990
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Thanks all, gonna replace the axle u joints and hold off on the driveshaft ones (I'll give them a closer inspection when doing the axle join to to be on the safe side). Driveshaft joints are serviceable and I've been greasing them every time I wheel (about once every month or two). Ball joints I received for my bday were moog, but I think they were bought off of Amazon so I might be able to return for Spicer. I'll have to do some research.
#6
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I just replaced my whole axleshaft with a cv shaft. I don't do much offroading. It's nice and smooth. Crazy easy also.
Just putting it out there. Grand Cherokee cvs.
Just putting it out there. Grand Cherokee cvs.
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#9
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Year: 1990
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I would like to upgrade to a Tom woods shaft. Few more months if I'm lucky, I've out about $4-5k into the Jeep in the past 6months so I got a sneak in my Jeep upgrades lol
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