afau3

I did that tonight when I got in it after sitting all day and I still pedaled it, but it seemed to start noticeably quicker and less of a hard start than this morning. When I started it tonight I turned the key to on three times. I'm starting to wonder if it might just be something like that, but that still leaves the RPM gauge (which is an issue of it's own)

gat

Check the fuel pressure at the rail. You can rent a free gauge at O'Reilly's. While you're there for the rental buy a bottle of throttle body/carburetor cleaner for your air intake at the idle control valve. Let us know what the fuel pressure at the rail was.
a
Also, what is the condition of the rotor and cap on the distributor? Have you ever replaced the cables for your battery?
​​​​​​​What is the year, submodel, engine, and transmission? I can try to find a wiring diagram that way. Also, I can tell you what the expected fuel pressure is with that information.

afau3

I'll have to check on the rest, but it's a 1996 Cherokee Sport 4.0 L 6-cylinder, automatic transmission. I appreciate it!

gat

I won't get to it till tonight. Since you replied really quickly, then you can try your local library for wiring diagrams and manuals.
http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365 This page has a manual for 1995 and 1996. You might be able to scan to your e-mail a copy at your library or print something from a database for your exact submodel.

gat

Before you start complex things I'd really look at the cables. Eventually they wear just like spark plugs because of corrosion at the battery mostly and loss of insulation all through. Made in U.S.A. ones are about 1 digit each at O'Reilly's. I have had to replace all three of my Jeep's because starting was a problem from the cables at one point or another. (2001,1992, & 1988).

afau3

As another update, when starting the car this morning, I turned the key multiple times to prime it, but it still struggled to start despite me pumping the gas. It shuddered out and didn't start, but when I tried to crank it a second time, it started up almost normally. It seems like the first attempt in the morning is what it really struggles with. When cranking it up to go home at the end of the day, it still struggles a little, but nowhere near as bad.

jordan96xj

You can stop pumping the pedal -prior- to starting - this doesn't do anything on an XJ. (it is not a "gas" pedal. It is an "air" pedal and all you are doing is opening and closing the throttle body butterfly valve - which would control the amount of air the engine receives when starting/running).

But please do the following on your next morning start attempt:

1. Press pedal all the way to the floor
2. Turn key to initiate cranking - let it crank 4-5 times (it will not start - because the pedal is all the way down - this is normal and by design)
3. Remove foot from pedal.
4. Try to start normally

Report back how step #4 reacts. Does it start better? worse? the same as usual?

afau3

I can do that. Just out of curiosity, what is the significance of doing so? What would it be checking for?

GreaseMonkey17

gat

Did you clean your throttle body or get p.s.i. at the rail yet?

jordan96xj

It utilizes the computer's clear-flood mode to help identify if the startup problems are related to unspent fuel collecting in the combustion chambers while sitting (such as leaky injectors). Pedal full-down start allows cranking and spark, but disables fuel injector pulsing.