Tried everything
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Tried everything
I've been having trouble getting my car to start, and despite reading countless threads, haven't been able to find a solution. When I turn the key, nothing happens, the gauges start up, I hear the fuel pump, and the fan turns off, but my starter isn't engaging. I understand there's a wide range of problems that can cause them, so I'll post what I've checked so far:
- Bad NSS: Bought a new one and installed, I have continuity between the B and C terminals... switch isn't bad.
- Bad Relay: Replaced, also have voltage to 86 (about 3v) when key is turned. Also have continuity from 85 to ground
- Bad Ignition switch: have continuity on yellow wire from switch to relay, fan blower also turns off. I heard that was a sign that the switch is functioning.
- Bad starter: replaced, unable to jump it between + battery cable and solenoid, but it does spark. Had it bench tested and it passed. I heard bench tests aren't always accurate, but no matter how hard i pleaded they wouldn't use my lifetime warranty on it to try a new one.
- Loose connections: all grounds clean, and all connections tight and taped where needed. No corrosion.
- Bad battery: My lights turn on, and It doesn't even want to crank, so I heard it was not a battery issue. I have noticed that my power door locks are quite a bit sluggish though barely unlocking at all.
Sorry for the long post, but I tried to be as detailed as possible. What do you guys think?
Thanks
- Bad NSS: Bought a new one and installed, I have continuity between the B and C terminals... switch isn't bad.
- Bad Relay: Replaced, also have voltage to 86 (about 3v) when key is turned. Also have continuity from 85 to ground
- Bad Ignition switch: have continuity on yellow wire from switch to relay, fan blower also turns off. I heard that was a sign that the switch is functioning.
- Bad starter: replaced, unable to jump it between + battery cable and solenoid, but it does spark. Had it bench tested and it passed. I heard bench tests aren't always accurate, but no matter how hard i pleaded they wouldn't use my lifetime warranty on it to try a new one.
- Loose connections: all grounds clean, and all connections tight and taped where needed. No corrosion.
- Bad battery: My lights turn on, and It doesn't even want to crank, so I heard it was not a battery issue. I have noticed that my power door locks are quite a bit sluggish though barely unlocking at all.
Sorry for the long post, but I tried to be as detailed as possible. What do you guys think?
Thanks
#2
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
Make sure the battery is fully charged, and use a wrench to turn the engine over manually (with the key off!) to make sure it hasn't seized up for some reason.
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
And Welcome to CF!
Dan
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Well, there's your problem! You called it a "car" and obviously hurt its feelings.
You should go appologize and call it a "Sexy Manly Beast Truck Animal". Should start then, haha.
Just kidding of course.
Big +1 on having the battery fully charged. When you say you try to start it and it doesn't even turn over, do you hear a light metalic "click" when you turn the key to the "start" position?
You should go appologize and call it a "Sexy Manly Beast Truck Animal". Should start then, haha.
Just kidding of course.
Big +1 on having the battery fully charged. When you say you try to start it and it doesn't even turn over, do you hear a light metalic "click" when you turn the key to the "start" position?
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
Also dont forget that just because wire terminals are clean doesnt mean the sheathing or something isnt wore down and they are shorting to ground before the load.
If the first two things up above check ok, I would start checking continuity on the cables (dont forget the grounds, they are 50% of the circuit) at least it is a free test (minus your time) and will either rule another part out or be a cause of the problem at hand.
#6
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Haha my bad, I should have clarified... "The Big Bad Wolf" is having trouble starting.
In all seriousness though, I tried jumping it a couple days ago as I don't have access to a charger at my university. The first time I turned the key, I heard a click from the relay, but nothing after that. It's a pretty old battery, think it could be so dead, it won't start the starter? I'm trying to avoid dropping the money for a new battery, unless I know for sure and it's my only option.
In all seriousness though, I tried jumping it a couple days ago as I don't have access to a charger at my university. The first time I turned the key, I heard a click from the relay, but nothing after that. It's a pretty old battery, think it could be so dead, it won't start the starter? I'm trying to avoid dropping the money for a new battery, unless I know for sure and it's my only option.
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
For sure, go have the battery load tested at a parts store (any CSK can do this).
And yes, a battery can be so dead that it won't even turn the starter, had it happen lots of times.
And yes, a battery can be so dead that it won't even turn the starter, had it happen lots of times.
#11
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
youll need 2 people to do this one goes in the car and hold the key on start and the other one pops the hood and gets something to LIGHTLY tap the starter then if it starts you need a new starter
#12
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
[QUOTE=ryannuffsaid;440544]I've been having trouble getting my car to start, and despite reading countless threads, haven't been able to find a solution. When I turn the key, nothing happens, the gauges start up, I hear the fuel pump, and the fan turns off, but my starter isn't engaging. I understand there's a wide range of problems that can cause them, so I'll post what I've checked so far:
- Bad NSS: Bought a new one and installed, I have continuity between the B and C terminals... switch isn't bad.
If none of the good advise posted here helps try this:
Do you get a "no start" in both Neutral and Park?
Do you have reverse lights with the ignition "On"?
After replacing the NSS it still may need to be adjusted. If you have reverse lights then the switch is probably adjusted OK. The fact that you heard a click once probably does mean that the NSS is OK.
How about getting a friend with some jumper cables and hook up to yours. Let his vehicle run for a few minutes then try to start yours? Sure beats taking the battery out and having it tested. There may not be enough amps to start it but it should at least turn the starter over.
- Bad NSS: Bought a new one and installed, I have continuity between the B and C terminals... switch isn't bad.
If none of the good advise posted here helps try this:
Do you get a "no start" in both Neutral and Park?
Do you have reverse lights with the ignition "On"?
After replacing the NSS it still may need to be adjusted. If you have reverse lights then the switch is probably adjusted OK. The fact that you heard a click once probably does mean that the NSS is OK.
How about getting a friend with some jumper cables and hook up to yours. Let his vehicle run for a few minutes then try to start yours? Sure beats taking the battery out and having it tested. There may not be enough amps to start it but it should at least turn the starter over.
#13
CF Veteran
I would definately get the battery tested.
If you try jumping it again, have the person sit in their car and hold it at ~1500rpm while you turn the key and try starting it. Usually alternators dont kick out alot of amps/voltage at idle.
My renix is a beotch to start, because it has to reach 300rpm before it will fire.
Also, ALWAYS post year, trans, etc.
It helps ALOT
If you try jumping it again, have the person sit in their car and hold it at ~1500rpm while you turn the key and try starting it. Usually alternators dont kick out alot of amps/voltage at idle.
My renix is a beotch to start, because it has to reach 300rpm before it will fire.
Also, ALWAYS post year, trans, etc.
It helps ALOT
#14
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
I would definately get the battery tested.
If you try jumping it again, have the person sit in their car and hold it at ~1500rpm while you turn the key and try starting it. Usually alternators dont kick out alot of amps/voltage at idle.
My renix is a beotch to start, because it has to reach 300rpm before it will fire.
Also, ALWAYS post year, trans, etc.
It helps ALOT
If you try jumping it again, have the person sit in their car and hold it at ~1500rpm while you turn the key and try starting it. Usually alternators dont kick out alot of amps/voltage at idle.
My renix is a beotch to start, because it has to reach 300rpm before it will fire.
Also, ALWAYS post year, trans, etc.
It helps ALOT
Dan
#15
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
definetly test the battery, if whoever tried to give you a jump start before had a puny little 4 banger it would have little effect on your battery, small engine + small alternator = little power to turn a larger engine. find somebody with a vehicle that has a v8 hook up the cables and let it charge for a few and try turning it over.