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Old 06-25-2009, 05:17 PM
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Okay so Floriduh has been extremely hot lately and my jeep has been overheating.
First i noticed that the radiator looked like it had backed into the mechanical fan and damaged it. it wasn't leaking but i think that was because it was covered by epoxy or something mixed with alot of dirt. and the fluid was rusty as all heck.
Second. there is no electrical fan. only the mechanical one. and no fan shroud.
I replaced the radiator and thanks to this forum only took like 45 min. And flushed it. Not sure if i flushed it right.
Third. i replaced the radiator cap. 13 lbs right? not sure
Okay after all that, drove around today temp poking around 95 and humid. driving at speeds above 35 it stays cool. but anything else. it heats up after about 10 min of city driving. it goes to the 3rd line about 215 and as soon as i parked it fluid came rushing our of the cap. so no that i gave al the details (and alot of them sorry) what should i do. supposedly the t-stat is new. the t-stat housing is new. the rad. is new. and the water pump is new. oh yeah and the fluid was still rusty as heck. HEEELPP????? Heater vavle? shroud +elctrical fan conversion + Flush? what do i do now? And does anyone have a link for a electrical fan pref. dual or triple? sorry for the long post
Old 06-25-2009, 05:31 PM
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I'm not sure why you'd be boiling over when you kill the engine, other than you're not keeping pressure with the new cap.

But if you're running hot (215* is running a bit hot) AND you don't have an electric fan and are running the stock clutch fan, make sure your clutch isn't worn out. If it is, you won't be blowing as much air over your engine, especially at idle, and you can be running hotter than you want to. A new fan clutch is pretty inexpensive and doesn't take too long to replace, either.

Just a suggestion
Old 06-25-2009, 05:47 PM
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how do you check the fan clutch? The way i was told is to spin it with the engine off and it should have some resistance but you shouldnt have to force it. and if it doesnt have any resistance at all it is bad. My fan has a little resistance does that mean its good?
Old 06-25-2009, 05:48 PM
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I flushed my radiator and didn't "burp" it. I filled it up when the fluid came out the cap I capped it and ran it. It overheated. I found out from some very helpful people here in the forum that you need to burp the air out of the system.

Just run it without the cap. I lost quite a bit of fluid as it "burped" but just kept topping it off and eventually it quit "burping" and then it ran right. I guess if you replace the radiator, you might get alot more air.

Now this is with the "Open" cooling system. I don't know what year you have so you might have the closed. I don't really get the difference but I have the open one.
Old 06-25-2009, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by UtahXJ
how do you check the fan clutch? The way i was told is to spin it with the engine off and it should have some resistance but you shouldnt have to force it. and if it doesnt have any resistance at all it is bad. My fan has a little resistance does that mean its good?
define "a little"
If it spins freely when the engine is at temperature, from what I understand, you'll want to replace it.

on my 1990, mine spins about as easily as it does when the engine is cold now. I just ordered the new part and am fixing it next weekend
Old 06-25-2009, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by UtahXJ
how do you check the fan clutch? The way i was told is to spin it with the engine off and it should have some resistance but you shouldnt have to force it. and if it doesnt have any resistance at all it is bad. My fan has a little resistance does that mean its good?

X2. I hear check the clutch fan, but have no idea how to do so.
Old 06-25-2009, 06:02 PM
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like if you spin it and let go it will slow and stop really quick. not keep spinning. when the motor is turned off. thats how i was told to check it. i have to open system i am guessing considering my over flow bottle has a vent and the rad has a pressurised rad cap.
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