The actual threads Where the fitting threads in broke in half when I was threading it in. This was the return line. So I came up with a few solutions. Find a way to plug off those threads and run the return line to the dipstick. Push the metal transmission line up to the port and put a whole bunch of rtv around it and hope it dosent leak which I have tried already tried and I can’t start it to test it because I have to buy new serpentine belt hardware. Or just swap the whole trans which I’m trying to avoid because I’m very new to this

 

Oh no, sorry to hear it. Can you post a picture to see how bad it is?

There was another thread on this recently, and I don't remember the fix, but it was not easy.

Your dipstick idea sounds bad. You may spend a lot of time, money and aggravation only to realize the best solution was to replace the transmission. But post a picture first, there may be a way to save it.

 

I mean I just pushed the line up my the hole and put a whole thing of rtv on there and it was high temp but basically half the threads snapped off and I guess you could put the fitting back in there but it dosent you would have to put rtv or some type of sealant because it would leak out. I can’t really get a picture right now. And why would it going to the dipstick or somewhere else be a bad idea I mean it is the return line. Does the transmission fluid in the return line go to the pan or does it go to other places in the tranny

 

I think the only fixes were JB weld everything or drill and tap a new fitting.

Whatever you do it had better be secure. Forgot how much pressure is in that line but it's a LOT. I spliced in a fuel line once as a stopgap and it blew in short order.

 

Just extract the broken stub with an easy out...there is no way it should be tight, as there is a rubber o-ring between it and the case

screw in a new Dorman connector, they are only about $20 (or a simple barb fitting, as I showed in the other thread)

the return line does not have much pressure in it, but I would not do what you are suggesting

..and for others, dont put your tool on the thin-shelled outer wall, get to the base of the fitting

ps, I would try getting it rotated out with a ***** punch & hammer, prior to easy out, if you have access

 

I think he's describing how a chunk of transmission case broke off...

 

yeah a chunk of the female threads broke off and I’m trying to avoid replacing the trans because I don’t really know what I’m doing

 

I see you've discovered why it's a bad idea to take that fitting out. Steel tends to seize into aluminum. JB-Weld the fitting in place. Real JB-Weld, not that Harbor Freight "quick" crap that never hardens. Clean the aluminum really well with an abrasive pad or wire brush and acetone first.

 

could I just plug off that hole within weld or something and run the return hose to the dipstick and tighten it down with some hose clamps and get hose that would fit over it (could that work) I mean it is the return line and that goes to the pan and the dipstick goes to the pan so I don’t see why not or I could just drill a hole in the pan or use the drain plug and thread something in there

 

If you run it to the dipstick tube you will never be able to check your fluid level again as it has to be running to do the check.

 

As Chaz pointed out, you need a working dipstick. I wouldn't try using the drainplug as you risk ripping it off if you slide across something. Maybe add something going into the side of the pan, but you need to make sure you won't hit anything inside. I think you're over thinking this. JB-Weld has worked for others.

 

Have you got any female thread left ?

If so, you probably should be able to get it to stay with the best 2 part epoxy products

You can also place a cable tie around the trans filler tube, and apply a lot of inward pressure on the pipe

Its a really nasty sounding problem, I did use anti-seize when I put mine back together

hard to work on the area, maybe with the trans out and pan off, you could tap to the next size up and place a 3/8" barb in there

like this

 

With the trans out there could also be tig welding but that isn't likely to work well on an aluminum casting that has been soaking in trans fluid for years. There is Alumaloy as well. "It melts at just 728 degrees and is stronger than the base metal." It can be machined and tapped. But it would also have contamination problems from the ATF.

So, clean it REALLY well, seat the fitting the best you can, and mound it with the 24 hour JBWeld. If that doesn't work you are probably better off finding a used working pull and replacing yours.

 

yeah I might just tap a hole in the side of the pan or put it in the drain port

 

it’s not stripped it’s more like I guess say you had a bolt and broke it in half that’s what it’s like so I do have half of the threads on there but the aluminum for the other side of the threads is gone basically and I tried starting it the way I had it with the rtv and it just spewed out fluid in the yard (and also in the picture that you showed there is a torques bolt, what is that for, is it just plugging that off, and does that run to the pan)