PatHenry

I've spent far too many hours getting bolts off over the years.

XJwonders

Those two bolts have either yellow or blue loctite from the factory.

Replace with same grade equivalent of bolt. Don't use stainless steel. Don't use anti seize

fijicorey25

The 00 service manual doesn't make mention of loctite/thread locker for the reassembly of the mount, but I can see how that might be a good idea. If/When I get these stupid things out, should I put blue loctite on them? I'll probably end up getting new bolts since it's cheap and easy insurance.

XJwonders

I don't know cause I never had any problems removing bolts (and I removed a lot of them). I reuse them.

bMannello

We’re you ever able to get the bolts off ? We are experiencing the same issue

PatHenry

You may not get a reply on a 5y old post, but I'd wager the O.P. DID get them out by having a professional do the job as he noted.

What have you tried so far to get these off?

Ultimately, on a 22+ year old vehicle that has probably been touched by a number of amateurs over the years, all bets are off. You have to assume that someone used red loctite (hell, maybe you have to assume they welded the f'r!) and over-cranked the bolts. Therefore, you need to get serious with your heat. Use welding blankets and move anything you can (like that speed sensor) out of the way, then hit it hard with focused heat until the bolts are literally glowing (this part is important... there's a difference between heat sources and a propane torch might not be hot enough - glowing red and don't be shy about it). Spray your Penetrating oil on it, repeat a few times and then hit it with your impact and 99.9% it will come apart.

Another thing to consider is whether cutting the bolts is the better solution. Generally speaking - if you have a stuck fastener that's bolted into something that you're getting rid of anyway - it might be the most efficient thing to take a dremel and cut the head of the bolt off. Take a breath and think of all of these things and approach it with the best strategy for success!

awg

They do have factory blue loctite

They also go into alloy if I am not mistaken, and can work free, potentially damaging the thread, if a trans mount has ever been replaced (I just had one drop out)

In any case, heat is 100% necessary in my opinion, (if you are experiencing problems, I did not), repeated heat cycling, and all careful fastener removal techniques mention by Pat Henry

nothing human can resist my 3/4" drive Sidchrome breaker bar with the 6ft pipe, it would easily snap the heads clean off

You really dont want that, as I am pretty sure you will need to replace the rear section of the trans itself if that happens, those bolts would be too hard to drill out

I would consult the parts manual on that