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transmission filter help

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Old 01-12-2014, 12:36 PM
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Default transmission filter help

98 xj sport aw4 4.0 140000 mi.

So i have been doing drain and fills to get the fluid red again. Now that im there, its filter changing time.

I ordered it a while ago but the wix filter finally came in, so its time.

Im gonna be honest, im nervous to jump into this job. I know i can unbolt the pan,im just nervous that i won't be able to.disconnect/reconnect the dipstick tube that everyone complains about.

This pan was likely never removed in the life of the vehicle, so im afraid that it might be seized or way too.jammed. And then if i do manage to get it off, how do i correctly reconnect it when reattaching the pan? I dont want to cut the tube and use a rubber hose & clamp because i have heard it causing leaks, problems with pressure, and other things.

Everyone one says apply heat and it will come lose. Well what could i use to apply heat?

I know these questions probably sound stupid, but my brain has about 0% capacity to deal with this truck anymore.

If anyone could give me some tips/guidance to handle this job, and what i might need?

I only have rhino ramps, so thats as high as i can get the truck
Old 01-12-2014, 01:22 PM
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Just cut the tube and hose clamp it itll save you alot of aggravation. I did it to mine and have not had any issues. Trick is not to overtighten your hose clamps thatll cause you leaks.
Old 01-12-2014, 04:07 PM
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1/2" rubber fuel line is what we used, iirc.
Old 01-12-2014, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Ye Ol' Cherokee
98 xj sport aw4 4.0 140000 mi.

So i have been doing drain and fills to get the fluid red again. Now that im there, its filter changing time.

I ordered it a while ago but the wix filter finally came in, so its time.

Im gonna be honest, im nervous to jump into this job. I know i can unbolt the pan,im just nervous that i won't be able to.disconnect/reconnect the dipstick tube that everyone complains about.

This pan was likely never removed in the life of the vehicle, so im afraid that it might be seized or way too.jammed. And then if i do manage to get it off, how do i correctly reconnect it when reattaching the pan? I dont want to cut the tube and use a rubber hose & clamp because i have heard it causing leaks, problems with pressure, and other things.

Everyone one says apply heat and it will come lose. Well what could i use to apply heat?

I know these questions probably sound stupid, but my brain has about 0% capacity to deal with this truck anymore.

If anyone could give me some tips/guidance to handle this job, and what i might need?

I only have rhino ramps, so thats as high as i can get the truck
Don't change the "screen" then and eliminate the stress from your life. There is NO factory recommended interval for changing it anyway........
Old 01-12-2014, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't change the "screen" then and eliminate the stress from your life. There is NO factory recommended interval for changing it anyway........
+1 if it shifts and drives fine then leave it. The FSM only recommends cleaning the screen as part of troubleshooting transmission problems.
Old 01-12-2014, 04:55 PM
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If you're set on replacing it, start by unbolting the top of the dipstick from the engine. Grab hold of the top part and twist while gently pulling up on it. Mine was stuck real good but twisting it back and forth works. Before you put it back in, wire brush the bottom end and make sure the rubber o-ring is in good shape. After it is clean, put a little grease on it. That'll make it much easier. After that, drop the pan. Put it back together in reverse order.
Old 01-12-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmphoto
If you're set on replacing it, start by unbolting the top of the dipstick from the engine. Grab hold of the top part and twist while gently pulling up on it. Mine was stuck real good but twisting it back and forth works. Before you put it back in, wire brush the bottom end and make sure the rubber o-ring is in good shape. After it is clean, put a little grease on it. That'll make it much easier. After that, drop the pan. Put it back together in reverse order.


Use some penetrating oil on the connection overnight, before you do this. Don't waste your time with WD-40, use PB Blaster or Kroil.

WD-40 is a great product, for its intended use. It is NOT intended to be a penetrating oil.
Old 01-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Use some penetrating oil on the connection overnight, before you do this. Don't waste your time with WD-40, use PB Blaster or Kroil.

WD-40 is a great product, for its intended use. It is NOT intended to be a penetrating oil.
You mean like getting scuff marks off linoleum?
Old 01-12-2014, 07:20 PM
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Does it work for that?

Cool!


Old 01-12-2014, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Does it work for that?

Cool!


**** poor penetrating oil and rust buster, but wait there's more!!!

http://wd40.com/uses-tips/
Old 01-13-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
1/2" rubber fuel line is what we used, iirc.
Thanks for info, was just going to ask that
Old 01-13-2014, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't change the "screen" then and eliminate the stress from your life. There is NO factory recommended interval for changing it anyway........
I am all for following directions from the factory, but here is my thinking on this.

Obviously, if the transmission is toast, well then no fluid or filter is going to fix that, but i'm hoping for the best. The truck has 140,000 miles on it, and it has had burnt fluid in it for who knows how long, so i would assume there are particles and other things suspended in that fluid. With drain and fills with fresh fluid, i would assume the detergents would cause more crud to come loose and suspend itself in the fluid. Now, even though it is not technically a filter, it is still there to screen out particles which do not belong. So i would assume that a brand new wix transmission screen will operate more effectively than the 15 year old one, with 140,000 miles on it and has lived with burnt fluid for a long time. I mean, it shifts beautifully sometimes, and sometimes it shifts poorly. Im still working on getting the fluid to 100%, but i thought a change in filter might help.

Does that sound like it makes sense? just my thinking
Old 01-13-2014, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmphoto
If you're set on replacing it, start by unbolting the top of the dipstick from the engine. Grab hold of the top part and twist while gently pulling up on it. Mine was stuck real good but twisting it back and forth works. Before you put it back in, wire brush the bottom end and make sure the rubber o-ring is in good shape. After it is clean, put a little grease on it. That'll make it much easier. After that, drop the pan. Put it back together in reverse order.
Thanks a million for the directions
Old 01-13-2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ye Ol' Cherokee
I am all for following directions from the factory, but here is my thinking on this.

Obviously, if the transmission is toast, well then no fluid or filter is going to fix that, but i'm hoping for the best. The truck has 140,000 miles on it, and it has had burnt fluid in it for who knows how long, so i would assume there are particles and other things suspended in that fluid. With drain and fills with fresh fluid, i would assume the detergents would cause more crud to come loose and suspend itself in the fluid. Now, even though it is not technically a filter, it is still there to screen out particles which do not belong. So i would assume that a brand new wix transmission screen will operate more effectively than the 15 year old one, with 140,000 miles on it and has lived with burnt fluid for a long time. I mean, it shifts beautifully sometimes, and sometimes it shifts poorly. Im still working on getting the fluid to 100%, but i thought a change in filter might help.

Does that sound like it makes sense? just my thinking
The screen is there to catch bigger chunks than the particles suspended in the ATF. Keep in mind that by draining/refilling you change out whats in there too.
But in the end, its your ride and if it makes you feel better, you got the filter and paid for it, you got some handy advice...go for it. It won't make things worse . I started replacing a lot of the quick connects and other annoying line connections as I went along during services. Good quality fuel/rubber hoses and clamps....and the next time you want to do that maintenance item, it's a breeze.
Old 01-13-2014, 05:17 PM
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The "tranny filter" is nothing more than a metal screen that catches bigger chunks and doesn't actually "filter" the fluid. I found this out the hard way but, I had already bought the filter and decided to go ahead and change it anyway.


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