transfer case drop ?'s
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transfer case drop ?'s
so i just went out and pb blasted my crossmember, upon inspection there is a bolt and a nut that is holding the cross member up, shouldnt it be two bolts instead of a combo? also what size bolts do i need?
Last edited by claygrassmann; 04-02-2009 at 06:36 PM.
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There is a stud and a bolt you have to extract the stud if you want to do a drop. easiest way to extract the stud is to tighten two nuts to it and then remove the nut closest to the unibody. Should pull the stud out with it.
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Transfer case drops CAN be useful. that extra inch in suspension can be useful for tire clearance, where the bigger tire gives more traction but maybe you dont NEED the 1" of ground clearance in the middle as bad!
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im just hoping to get rid of my slight vibs and get ready for my 4.5inch lift till i can save up enough for an sye or an HNT
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Yeah, the t-case drop defeats the purpose of a lift... but if you've got bad vibes from said lift and you're eating up u-joints... put it on until you can afford an SYE. I went two years without one, but the vibes finally got so bad I just threw one on two weeks ago. I'll get an SYE... someday.
And yes, on either side of the crossmember, there's one bolt and one stud that holds it up. Don't ask me why... I thought it was pretty retarded myself. I just used vice grips to get the stud out and replaced it with a BOLT. Imagine that... two bolts! What'll I think of next? Besides, if you're using a piece of box tubing to lower your x-member (which I did), do you really want to use a long bolt on one side and try to tighten a nut on a stud INSIDE a piece of box tubing? I didn't think so... get a longer bolt.
And yes, on either side of the crossmember, there's one bolt and one stud that holds it up. Don't ask me why... I thought it was pretty retarded myself. I just used vice grips to get the stud out and replaced it with a BOLT. Imagine that... two bolts! What'll I think of next? Besides, if you're using a piece of box tubing to lower your x-member (which I did), do you really want to use a long bolt on one side and try to tighten a nut on a stud INSIDE a piece of box tubing? I didn't think so... get a longer bolt.
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i dont have box tubbing just round but yeah im def not trying to eff with some stupid ars stud on there all the time. just this once lol
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Just remember that this will tilt your engine back some also. So make sure your fan doesn't rub on your radiator!
Also keep an eye on your motor mounts since they will be under more tension.
Also keep an eye on your motor mounts since they will be under more tension.
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#8
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fans are no worries i took my mechanical fan off for the winter and im gonna be replacing it soon with a second elec fan. motor mounts will be coming soon too.
anyone kno what size bolts i need?
anyone kno what size bolts i need?
Last edited by claygrassmann; 04-02-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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I didnt think I would need a T-case drop with 3"s of lift, but did. Didnt want to put one on but it was necessary.
I agree that the SYE is the way to go, but its not always cost effective. My rig isnt worth spending more money on when I only plan on keeping it another 1.5 years before upgrading to.... I wont say it. It does start with a T and end in a A
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A transfer case drop does not defeat the purpose, if you do it the right way. If you get a rustys t-case crossmember with a 1inch drop like I did. You can find them on ebay for cheap.
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...y_Code=xj_skid
It has the same ground clearance as a stock crossmember, they just make it thiner so the T-case is lower. Granted right after I lifted my heep I made my own cheapo drop spacer.(just so I could drive it to work because my other car was not running)But I bought a rustys 1inch drop crossmember for about 90 on Ebay.
Here is what mine looks like
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ossmember1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ossmember1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
And a SYE is not the only option for your drive shaft. Thats what I thought I needed then I went to my loco driveline shop and asked the guy what I should do. He said I didn't need an SYE. I said are you sure. And then he looked at me funny. He asked if it had any vib and I said no. He said all you need is a new yoke for the tranny. for about 70 bucks he sold me one that is longer than the factory one, and there for has more room to move up and down. So you can spend the $200 or so on a SYE or do it my way cheaper.
This is my new tranny yoke.
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t=newyoke1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...w/newyoke1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
And this is what the new yoke and drop crossmember make my drive line angle look like.
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...eshaftline.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...eshaftline.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...y_Code=xj_skid
It has the same ground clearance as a stock crossmember, they just make it thiner so the T-case is lower. Granted right after I lifted my heep I made my own cheapo drop spacer.(just so I could drive it to work because my other car was not running)But I bought a rustys 1inch drop crossmember for about 90 on Ebay.
Here is what mine looks like
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ossmember1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ossmember1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
And a SYE is not the only option for your drive shaft. Thats what I thought I needed then I went to my loco driveline shop and asked the guy what I should do. He said I didn't need an SYE. I said are you sure. And then he looked at me funny. He asked if it had any vib and I said no. He said all you need is a new yoke for the tranny. for about 70 bucks he sold me one that is longer than the factory one, and there for has more room to move up and down. So you can spend the $200 or so on a SYE or do it my way cheaper.
This is my new tranny yoke.
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t=newyoke1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...w/newyoke1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
And this is what the new yoke and drop crossmember make my drive line angle look like.
<a href="http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...eshaftline.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...eshaftline.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
#11
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im in the process of dropping my TC on my 2000 xj, i broke off the 2 rear bolts or studs? idk why theres not 4 bolts or studs, how would i remove them if i have to?
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