Aliduin

I'm Repairing a 95 jeep grand cherokee and i cannot for the life of me find the bolts that connect the Flywheel to the Torque Converter. Does anyone have the thread count on them, and wether they are metric or not? Thanks

5-90

If they're for the 242ci, then 1/2"-20x.590" will work (it's a kit for Pontiac that I got from ARP that uses a place bolt with an oversized head.)

If it's the 318, then I think the LA-block cranks still use a 1/2"-20x5/8" or so screw, but don't hold me to it. Best place to get those would be either ARP (since they'll have something that's going to work right off the card) or the dealer (which will probably cost about as much as ARP, but ARP is better.)

In either case, don't even bother trying to get them at the hardware store - a regular hex head capscrew will not work for that application! If you can take one to a "farm & fleet" shop and tell them you want a "place bolt" in that size, they may be able to help you - but I don't guarantee anything.

Me being me, I'd start at ARP's site to get a part number, then check your local small-chain or mom & pop parts house to order (they've got a better network of local warehouses than the big chains do, and big chains tend to be limited to corporate warehouses and distribution centres anyhow.)

Aliduin

Thanks, my favorite thing in the world is picking up a project halfway done when the drunk before you took all the parts. one day, got it up and running just to find out that these pieces were missing. my bitter taste of hell and defeat. And i was recently corrected, its not the grand cherokee, its the 4.0 in-line 6 in a regular 95 cherokee. any difference?

5-90

Oh, I've had my share of those!

The screws for the flexplate should be same-same. Although, I'm more sure the screws will work in the XJ than in the ZJ (because I'd gotten that Pontiac kit for my XJ yonks ago, when I'd had to change the transmission and flexplate...)

candymancan

I need to bring this thread back, im having the same kind of knocking on my 98 I6 Jeep grand cherokee, it knocks when idle and when i go above 1300rpm it completetly disapears.. It also makes a clank noise for a second or 2 right as the engine starts when it goes vroooom.. it will clank for a second and then the knocking will start. It sometimes also clanks when the engine is turned off.

I was worried it was a rod, piston, bearing or something however after alot of research wouldnt those noises continue when the engine is revved ?

I was told its the flexplate, so i took a tube went under the car and listend to the engine block on both sides no noise, listend the oil pan its entire length and no noise. When i put the tubing between the inspection cover and the oil pan the noise is 100% from that spot.

See the picture i took from the thread, i circled where i put the tube end and its comming from right there.. click the picture to expand


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I also made a video

ematuzsan

I noticed that I am missing the cover for the flywheel, is this a big deal? Also, how I spin the flywheel? I am in neutral and I can not budge it. Is it suppossed to be tough to spin?

5-90

3/4" socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet on the crankshaft nose screw is easiest. Use a wide flat screwdriver to hold the thing in place (between the teeth and the bellhousing, as needed)

The inspection plate isn't strictly necessary - but it can be a problem if you spend a lot of time in gravel or mud (you don't want to get a lot of crap in the bell.) If needs be, one can be sourced at a breaker's or you can fab one up out of sheet aluminum.

a_q

After reading this and similar threads elsewhere I found the loose bolt on the flywheel, which was half out and the head a bit mashed up.

I went round each one and locktited it and torqued it up.

Some of the others were pretty loose.

i found I could turn the engine over (4.0L petrol) using the flywheel bolts alone, then do the next one. Turning over on the starter was too random.