few 1990 4.0 questions
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
few 1990 4.0 questions
k needign some suggestions here. excuse my mispelling my laptop keys got pulled off by my 2year old
1. jeep like to die when stopping, it idles really low. but never jumps like some do with this problem.
2. ac is pretty chopped up so i wanna pull the compressor. does anyone know the belt size id need?
1. jeep like to die when stopping, it idles really low. but never jumps like some do with this problem.
2. ac is pretty chopped up so i wanna pull the compressor. does anyone know the belt size id need?
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
1. idle it up with the idle screw under the throttle linkage... may help out... other wise probly TPS sensor...
2. i have no idea... at the parts store they as ac or no ac... try the no ac one and go from there
2. i have no idea... at the parts store they as ac or no ac... try the no ac one and go from there
#4
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you can't just pull the compressor and put a smaller belt on it. You have to have that pulley there to make everything else spin in the correct directions. better off pulling all the AC plumbing and disconnecting the compressor and just let it sit there and spin. Not really hurting anything. Some people convert them to on board air compressors. google it, it's pretty cool.
#6
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
RENIX idle isn't really adjustable by the hobbyist, because the ECU will keep trying to change it back.
Clean the IAC pintle and seat. Check the vacuum lines, particularly where the MAP sensor line plugs into the throttle body (on the pax side.) The retainer has two bungs - one goes into a blind hole. It sometimes helps to put a dab of RTV on the blind plug to retain the MAP sensor line.
Make sure there aren't any other vacuum leaks. Does the problem go away when the engine is warmed up? Check the manifold screws. Is it consistent? Check the vacuum lines and throttle body base. You should still be able to get the vacuum line harnesses at NAPA under their Echlin brand. (Three part numbesr for about fifty bucks total.)
Aircon-equipped and no-aircon XJs use the same belt, there is a "delete pully" (an idler the same size as the aircon compressor pully) that goes in place of the aircon compressor. You can also turn the aircon compressor into an idler (as long as the bearings hold up) by simply disconnecting the aircon compressor clutch - the electromagnetic clutch that dis/engages the aircon compressor proper.
Also, check TPS function using an analogue ohmmeter. You want to make sure that the operation of the TPS lever is followed by a change in TPS resistance (the TPS is a potentiometer used as a voltage divider. Just trust me on this - unless you want a lesson in electronics...) and it can develop 'flat spots' over time. These "flat spots" tend to happen at part-throttle openings where the throttle valve spends a lot of time - i.e., a cruise RPM or off-idle (if you spend a lot of time moving slowly or on the freeway.) Replace if you note a flat spot. NB: You can not use a digital ohmmeter for this check - digitals have buffer circuits inbuilt to stabilise the display, and these cause delays and jumps by their very nature. Analogue response is immediate - which is why you have to use it. If you have an automatic, check on the "engine side" of the TPS - the three-pole connector, not the four-pole.
Clean the IAC pintle and seat. Check the vacuum lines, particularly where the MAP sensor line plugs into the throttle body (on the pax side.) The retainer has two bungs - one goes into a blind hole. It sometimes helps to put a dab of RTV on the blind plug to retain the MAP sensor line.
Make sure there aren't any other vacuum leaks. Does the problem go away when the engine is warmed up? Check the manifold screws. Is it consistent? Check the vacuum lines and throttle body base. You should still be able to get the vacuum line harnesses at NAPA under their Echlin brand. (Three part numbesr for about fifty bucks total.)
Aircon-equipped and no-aircon XJs use the same belt, there is a "delete pully" (an idler the same size as the aircon compressor pully) that goes in place of the aircon compressor. You can also turn the aircon compressor into an idler (as long as the bearings hold up) by simply disconnecting the aircon compressor clutch - the electromagnetic clutch that dis/engages the aircon compressor proper.
Also, check TPS function using an analogue ohmmeter. You want to make sure that the operation of the TPS lever is followed by a change in TPS resistance (the TPS is a potentiometer used as a voltage divider. Just trust me on this - unless you want a lesson in electronics...) and it can develop 'flat spots' over time. These "flat spots" tend to happen at part-throttle openings where the throttle valve spends a lot of time - i.e., a cruise RPM or off-idle (if you spend a lot of time moving slowly or on the freeway.) Replace if you note a flat spot. NB: You can not use a digital ohmmeter for this check - digitals have buffer circuits inbuilt to stabilise the display, and these cause delays and jumps by their very nature. Analogue response is immediate - which is why you have to use it. If you have an automatic, check on the "engine side" of the TPS - the three-pole connector, not the four-pole.
#7
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Year: 1989-1990&1990 comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As said you can not bypass the AC with a smaller belt. you can if you are lucky find an OEM ac pump eliminator pully. you CAN NOT buy on at the parts store. I am doing this right now. I bought one from a guy on comancheclub.com . But also as stated by littleredxj just keep the AC pump there and let it free wheel.
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#8
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
check out http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257802 if you need to justify the 15 extra pounds from leaving the compressor in. i'm planning on converting mine to an air compressor soon.
#9
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
i got my compessor delete pulley from autozone for my 90 lumina... but they dont sell them for everything so like stated above they may not have them... but they are out there... and i missed that his was renix on the idle adjustment thing... you can also spray starting fluid around the intake and vacuum line fittings... if the engine idles up then you got a leak there... for the guy with the 97 ZJ... yes... there the same TB's on all the HO engines... just different sensors and then a added sensor around 99 but still the same TB...
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