Time for a rebuilt engine
 

It's time for a rebuilt engine for my Cherokee, most of the rebuild sites have block and head numbers, are there any specific numbers I should be looking for or looking to stay away from?? Any recommendations on who to get it from? I am on a very tight budget so price does matter. I'll be replacing my clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and slave cylinder at the same time, new injectors (703's), I have a new water pump, tstat housing, harmonic balancer already, power steering works well, alternator works so I won't be replacing them, any thing I'm missing? Thanks. Coach.

Anything 91-95 will be fine. Only other suggestion would be a new thermostat, everything internally will be replaced.

I forgot to mention that most of the sites ask it it's automatic or stick?? What's the difference?? Thx. Coach

Ever think of rebuilding your current engine? Possibly making a stroker out of it?

I'm going to talk to the local machine shop tomorrow, not too many options here in rural america. I have a lot of pitting under the tstat housing, i used two gaskets and lots of rtv and it still seeps.

Biggest difference, is autos get flexplate, manual will get flywheel, pilot bearing etc.

Yea but they don't come with the engine do they? Is that something I should replace, it does have 350+K miles on it. Coach

Generally, no, you reuse yours, but you if you are talking about the XJ in your sig line, with 326K, definitely have a machine shop look at it to make sure they can resurface it.

There are a few suggestions I can make. These are in no particular order, just coming to mind randomly as I type. Maybe a later OBDII motor (97-98) as I've heard that it's better to have the dual patteren cam these later motors came with (please do your own research on this as there are differences of opinions on this- but it makes sense). Other things to budget for would be : O2 sensor, Flexplate (incase it's cracked and the teeth will certainly be woren with over 300K miles), seals on the tranny pump, Crank sensor, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, belt, fluids (I recommend Brad Penn oil- it has the proper Zinc added and they offer break-in oil for that initial 500 miles), filters (both air and oil), oil pressure sensor, motor mounts, bored TB, and exhaust manifold.

That's a start... I'll add if I think of anything else

Ok, to make a stroker all you do is change the crank and rods, right? The local shop wants $1500 to rebuild my engine which is cheaper than one of those rebuild factories. He has a good rep too. My next question is, I have an '89 parts rig that runs but not sure how well. I know it's a renix but if I use my existing fuel injection will it bolt up and work? I don't know if it's worth the effort or not. Thanks. Coach

From the latest reading I've done about a stroker build up is you want to use the 258 crank, 4.0L rods, and special expensive set of pistons (stroker people call them cheap, but they're still 3 times the cost of stock pistons). And then keep in mind you'll probably need to run high octane fuel. Despite the common misconception it is a lot more expensive than a stock rebuild, and probably not as reliable.

Most of the time it is cheaper to buy a long block then to have motor rebuilt(unless you can do it yourself) that will make the machine work needed to the block easier on you cause you don't have the labor price on assembly.Also when you buy a rebuild ,long block you dont need the break in oil because they have already been run.But a good oil with any additive zddp,like stp etc is a good idea.

Sounds like I'll be staying stock, maybe an rv cam. I don't have any extra money, I have to fix my 6.0 Powerstroke too. I'll talk to the machine shop, he's who I'm probably going to have do the whole enchilada. Thanks. Coach

Sorry I got to pick on ya, a powerstroke ohno lol.

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