T Case Skid plate question
11-18-2016, 03:29 PM
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 V6
T Case Skid plate question
Hey guys,
I cannot figure this out. Any help would be great.
I was removing my T-case skid plate to install a t-case drop (until I can get an SYE installed). I had issues with one bolt that would not come loose. I was able to eventually twist and turn the skid plate enough to get it out but it pulled out the "nut" as well. It is not a weld nut, it is a type of nut that somehow was screwed or locked into the frame. Needless to say I need to replace that nut/bolt now to reinstall the skid plate.
Does anyone know what that part is called or where I can find one? Or any other idea to get that skid plate reinstalled? I am wondering it the hole is now too large to just reinstall another "nut".
Any help would be great!
I cannot figure this out. Any help would be great.
I was removing my T-case skid plate to install a t-case drop (until I can get an SYE installed). I had issues with one bolt that would not come loose. I was able to eventually twist and turn the skid plate enough to get it out but it pulled out the "nut" as well. It is not a weld nut, it is a type of nut that somehow was screwed or locked into the frame. Needless to say I need to replace that nut/bolt now to reinstall the skid plate.
Does anyone know what that part is called or where I can find one? Or any other idea to get that skid plate reinstalled? I am wondering it the hole is now too large to just reinstall another "nut".
Any help would be great!
11-18-2016, 03:43 PM
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys,
I cannot figure this out. Any help would be great.
I was removing my T-case skid plate to install a t-case drop (until I can get an SYE installed). I had issues with one bolt that would not come loose. I was able to eventually twist and turn the skid plate enough to get it out but it pulled out the "nut" as well. It is not a weld nut, it is a type of nut that somehow was screwed or locked into the frame. Needless to say I need to replace that nut/bolt now to reinstall the skid plate.
Does anyone know what that part is called or where I can find one? Or any other idea to get that skid plate reinstalled? I am wondering it the hole is now too large to just reinstall another "nut".
Any help would be great!
I cannot figure this out. Any help would be great.
I was removing my T-case skid plate to install a t-case drop (until I can get an SYE installed). I had issues with one bolt that would not come loose. I was able to eventually twist and turn the skid plate enough to get it out but it pulled out the "nut" as well. It is not a weld nut, it is a type of nut that somehow was screwed or locked into the frame. Needless to say I need to replace that nut/bolt now to reinstall the skid plate.
Does anyone know what that part is called or where I can find one? Or any other idea to get that skid plate reinstalled? I am wondering it the hole is now too large to just reinstall another "nut".
Any help would be great!
11-19-2016, 03:58 AM
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I am putting a TC skid plate on my '00 that did not come with one. I am thinking of using what I call a rivnut. Google it. Pretty sure that is what is from the factory. In my '00 parts catalog it lists this:
11502850 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M8x1.25x20
34201575 NUT, Insert, M8 x 1.25 x 18.29
11502850 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M8x1.25x20
34201575 NUT, Insert, M8 x 1.25 x 18.29
11-19-2016, 05:53 AM
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Can you weld? I had one of those rivnuts come loose on my sway bar. I was able to tack it back in place with a stick welder. Basically find a hole nearby that you can shove a stick rod through and tack the nut back down. Kind of a guess and test. The tack only keeps it from spinning, not holding the skid up.
Other option I would look at: Weld a piece of 1/4" flat bar to the frame and tap it for the bolt. That's what I plan to do when I swap the rear bump stops out as the old bolts snapped off in the holes.
IMHO the stock 'frame' is too thin to tap for anything more than a clamp for lines.
Other option I would look at: Weld a piece of 1/4" flat bar to the frame and tap it for the bolt. That's what I plan to do when I swap the rear bump stops out as the old bolts snapped off in the holes.
IMHO the stock 'frame' is too thin to tap for anything more than a clamp for lines.
11-19-2016, 06:00 AM
#7
Beach Bum
I tapped where the metal is doubled. Single layer frame-rail is very thin. Aftermarket rock sliders are attached the same way.
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11-19-2016, 06:17 AM
#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I work in ship repair for a living. I deal in HEAVY steel. I just don't have any faith in a 3/8-16 or 1/2-13 screw threaded into material 1/16th or 1/8th thick.
When I installed my control arm drop brackets they came with self tappers for the lower arm gussets. When I tightened the 3/8" self tappers into the 'frame' they stripped the frame hole when barely pass snug. I drilled the correct size hole, i did not apply excessive force when tightening. That metal is just too thin to hold a real bolt. Next time I'm welding on the jeep, I will weld the gussets in to solve that issue.
As far as rock sliders attached with self tappers. I plan to weld in frame stiffeners and weld the sliders to those. Do you have experience with jacking the vehicle up by the sliders held on with self tappers? I do not, but I'm hesitant to find out. I trust my welds a lot more than a self tapper in sheet metal.
Steve, I don't mean to come across as argumentative. Coming from ship repair, we build everything heavy. Quite literally bomb proof. Because of that, I have a tendency to over build things. How well do these self tappers hold up to abuse?
When I installed my control arm drop brackets they came with self tappers for the lower arm gussets. When I tightened the 3/8" self tappers into the 'frame' they stripped the frame hole when barely pass snug. I drilled the correct size hole, i did not apply excessive force when tightening. That metal is just too thin to hold a real bolt. Next time I'm welding on the jeep, I will weld the gussets in to solve that issue.
As far as rock sliders attached with self tappers. I plan to weld in frame stiffeners and weld the sliders to those. Do you have experience with jacking the vehicle up by the sliders held on with self tappers? I do not, but I'm hesitant to find out. I trust my welds a lot more than a self tapper in sheet metal.
Steve, I don't mean to come across as argumentative. Coming from ship repair, we build everything heavy. Quite literally bomb proof. Because of that, I have a tendency to over build things. How well do these self tappers hold up to abuse?
11-19-2016, 09:38 AM
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I work in ship repair for a living. I deal in HEAVY steel. I just don't have any faith in a 3/8-16 or 1/2-13 screw threaded into material 1/16th or 1/8th thick.
When I installed my control arm drop brackets they came with self tappers for the lower arm gussets. When I tightened the 3/8" self tappers into the 'frame' they stripped the frame hole when barely pass snug. I drilled the correct size hole, i did not apply excessive force when tightening. That metal is just too thin to hold a real bolt. Next time I'm welding on the jeep, I will weld the gussets in to solve that issue.
As far as rock sliders attached with self tappers. I plan to weld in frame stiffeners and weld the sliders to those. Do you have experience with jacking the vehicle up by the sliders held on with self tappers? I do not, but I'm hesitant to find out. I trust my welds a lot more than a self tapper in sheet metal.
Steve, I don't mean to come across as argumentative. Coming from ship repair, we build everything heavy. Quite literally bomb proof. Because of that, I have a tendency to over build things. How well do these self tappers hold up to abuse?
When I installed my control arm drop brackets they came with self tappers for the lower arm gussets. When I tightened the 3/8" self tappers into the 'frame' they stripped the frame hole when barely pass snug. I drilled the correct size hole, i did not apply excessive force when tightening. That metal is just too thin to hold a real bolt. Next time I'm welding on the jeep, I will weld the gussets in to solve that issue.
As far as rock sliders attached with self tappers. I plan to weld in frame stiffeners and weld the sliders to those. Do you have experience with jacking the vehicle up by the sliders held on with self tappers? I do not, but I'm hesitant to find out. I trust my welds a lot more than a self tapper in sheet metal.
Steve, I don't mean to come across as argumentative. Coming from ship repair, we build everything heavy. Quite literally bomb proof. Because of that, I have a tendency to over build things. How well do these self tappers hold up to abuse?
Yes I do use my Hi-Lift jack on my sliders no problems.