Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

A Story of Drum Brakes and Hopefully How to Fix Them

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 27, 2017 | 03:25 PM
  #16  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by IJM
Just follow the parking brake cables from the rear drums forward to where they meet with the single cable coming from the handle inside the Jeep. It'll be obvious.




This sounds like it came from left field, but I appreciate the response. haha


I know where the equalizer is and have already disconnected it as a diagnostic procedure. What I haven't done is completely remove the parking brake from the brake system at the wheel. Would it be safe to remove one side at a time to see if that's the issue?
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2017 | 03:37 PM
  #17  
BruceB's Avatar
CF Veteran
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 364
From: Eustis, Florida
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Well I do believe that there is a individual brake line coming off the hydraulic block for each wheel. If the PO did no real maintenance it is possible the rear brake lines and/or the proportioning valves are trashed. I think you have isolated down to these items. Possibly disconnect the brake line from the proportioning valve and bleed them to insure line is clear, then reattach and bleed through the proportioning valve. This may isolate the problem to either a clogged line or a bad proportioning valve. Either way, flushing all the brake lines at this point and replacing with new brake fluid is always a good thing.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2017 | 04:26 PM
  #18  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by BruceB
Well I do believe that there is a individual brake line coming off the hydraulic block for each wheel. If the PO did no real maintenance it is possible the rear brake lines and/or the proportioning valves are trashed. I think you have isolated down to these items. Possibly disconnect the brake line from the proportioning valve and bleed them to insure line is clear, then reattach and bleed through the proportioning valve. This may isolate the problem to either a clogged line or a bad proportioning valve. Either way, flushing all the brake lines at this point and replacing with new brake fluid is always a good thing.


Yeah the last flush seemed to make matters worse. I get near perfect braking power, so I wonder if the fluid is not returning as easily. Would I have to bench bleed, or is that only for the MC? I'll try to find some write-ups here in a sec. And the PO had to bleed them at some time with the lift and because the previous fluid wasn't TOO bad.
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2017 | 05:17 AM
  #19  
investinwaffles's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by s346k
i replaced my drum brakes with a BFH. no better time for a disc conversion.
Yeah, i estimated the cost of rebuilding the drums at ~$150, and instead installed ZJ Discs brakes for roughly $250 (but re-used the junkyard calipers since they were in great shape)

Totally worth it
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2017 | 09:29 PM
  #20  
Slow's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Inland Northwest
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Default

If you have abs then you may have a problem with the abs pump. Most just do the wham bam bleed and get away with it, but you should also bleed the abs pump as well. Even dealer mechanics fail to properly bleed brakes with abs because of the time it takes.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 07:09 AM
  #21  
wingless's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
Likes: 35
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
Default

It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.

This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 11:53 AM
  #22  
s346k's Avatar
CF Veteran
Premium Member
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 18
From: central IN
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by investinwaffles
Yeah, i estimated the cost of rebuilding the drums at ~$150, and instead installed ZJ Discs brakes for roughly $250 (but re-used the junkyard calipers since they were in great shape)

Totally worth it
i had $65 in my disc swap including cores.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 12:08 PM
  #23  
freegdr's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Default

To OP........Were brake lines ever replace ? Could be restricting flow when pedals released .
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 02:48 PM
  #24  
Slow's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Inland Northwest
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by wingless
It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.

This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
When the tech only gets paid one hour for a flush and a proper flush on a vehicle with abs and/or traction control takes two techs over an hour time is an issue.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 03:49 PM
  #25  
wingless's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
Likes: 35
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
Default

The additional time for flushing the ABS is the one minute of run time, one minute to plug in the DRB II and one minute to select the flush in the DRB II menu, for a total of three minutes.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:29 PM
  #26  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by freegdr
To OP........Were brake lines ever replace ? Could be restricting flow when pedals released .
I honestly have no clue. They look fine and bleed just fine as well. I know that's without all the pressure in a closed system though. The PO did replace the flex line to the rear axle when he installed the lift so it's not an issue there.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:30 PM
  #27  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by wingless
It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.

This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
Can you bleed manually? The FSM mentions something about bleeding the ABS almost like any other line unless I'm mistaken
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:37 PM
  #28  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Sorry it took me awhile to reply folks.

Update:
Did a complete overhaul of the drums and replaced the adjusters as well. Also got the drums turned. Adjusted brakes manually as well as the parking brake. No issues and releases when Jeep is off. I'll throw some pics off of before I replaced it. Still no fix for the dragging.

Bought a MC just now, but no one had proportioning valves. I know it's an easy job, but before I throw in the MC, do y'all even think that could be the issue? I would think the MC would cause all brakes to drag, not just the rears. Also, should I wait to get the PV before I install MC?

Name:  ForumRunner_20170130_123612.png
Views: 509
Size:  425.4 KB



Name:  ForumRunner_20170130_123619.png
Views: 490
Size:  448.9 KB



Name:  ForumRunner_20170130_123638.png
Views: 490
Size:  358.5 KB



Name:  ForumRunner_20170130_123646.png
Views: 556
Size:  518.6 KB



Name:  ForumRunner_20170130_123703.png
Views: 516
Size:  378.3 KB

Keep in mind, those are month old drums and shoes
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:49 PM
  #29  
wingless's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
Likes: 35
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
Default

Originally Posted by PartyLikeIt's99XJ
Can you bleed manually? The FSM mentions something about bleeding the ABS almost like any other line unless I'm mistaken
Watch the linked video.

The ABS bleed requires the DRB tool.

It is possible to do a conventional bleed. The conventional bleed will purge air from all the brake lines. The conventional bleed is sufficient if there is not air in the ABS and if the fluid in the ABS is not contaminated.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 08:43 PM
  #30  
PartyLikeIt's99XJ's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by wingless
Watch the linked video.

The ABS bleed requires the DRB tool.

It is possible to do a conventional bleed. The conventional bleed will purge air from all the brake lines. The conventional bleed is sufficient if there is not air in the ABS and if the fluid in the ABS is not contaminated.


So I've flushed the fluid conventionally twice. I know the PO had to open the system to install the longer flex line, but 1. would that cause air to get into the ABS system and 2. would air in the ABS be causing this issue? My ABS light is still on but I haven't been able to confirm or deny that it's a sensor issue.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:41 PM.