A Story of Drum Brakes and Hopefully How to Fix Them
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This sounds like it came from left field, but I appreciate the response. haha
I know where the equalizer is and have already disconnected it as a diagnostic procedure. What I haven't done is completely remove the parking brake from the brake system at the wheel. Would it be safe to remove one side at a time to see if that's the issue?
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Eustis, Florida
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Well I do believe that there is a individual brake line coming off the hydraulic block for each wheel. If the PO did no real maintenance it is possible the rear brake lines and/or the proportioning valves are trashed. I think you have isolated down to these items. Possibly disconnect the brake line from the proportioning valve and bleed them to insure line is clear, then reattach and bleed through the proportioning valve. This may isolate the problem to either a clogged line or a bad proportioning valve. Either way, flushing all the brake lines at this point and replacing with new brake fluid is always a good thing.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well I do believe that there is a individual brake line coming off the hydraulic block for each wheel. If the PO did no real maintenance it is possible the rear brake lines and/or the proportioning valves are trashed. I think you have isolated down to these items. Possibly disconnect the brake line from the proportioning valve and bleed them to insure line is clear, then reattach and bleed through the proportioning valve. This may isolate the problem to either a clogged line or a bad proportioning valve. Either way, flushing all the brake lines at this point and replacing with new brake fluid is always a good thing.
Yeah the last flush seemed to make matters worse. I get near perfect braking power, so I wonder if the fluid is not returning as easily. Would I have to bench bleed, or is that only for the MC? I'll try to find some write-ups here in a sec. And the PO had to bleed them at some time with the lift and because the previous fluid wasn't TOO bad.
CF Veteran
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From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Totally worth it
If you have abs then you may have a problem with the abs pump. Most just do the wham bam bleed and get away with it, but you should also bleed the abs pump as well. Even dealer mechanics fail to properly bleed brakes with abs because of the time it takes.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
The additional time for flushing the ABS is the one minute of run time, one minute to plug in the DRB II and one minute to select the flush in the DRB II menu, for a total of three minutes.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
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From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I honestly have no clue. They look fine and bleed just fine as well. I know that's without all the pressure in a closed system though. The PO did replace the flex line to the rear axle when he installed the lift so it's not an issue there.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
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From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It is not a time issue to bleed the ABS pump, it takes about a minute.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
This reply has an A/V clip showing bleeding the pump w/ the DRB II tool.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Sorry it took me awhile to reply folks.
Update:
Did a complete overhaul of the drums and replaced the adjusters as well. Also got the drums turned. Adjusted brakes manually as well as the parking brake. No issues and releases when Jeep is off. I'll throw some pics off of before I replaced it. Still no fix for the dragging.
Bought a MC just now, but no one had proportioning valves. I know it's an easy job, but before I throw in the MC, do y'all even think that could be the issue? I would think the MC would cause all brakes to drag, not just the rears. Also, should I wait to get the PV before I install MC?





Keep in mind, those are month old drums and shoes
Update:
Did a complete overhaul of the drums and replaced the adjusters as well. Also got the drums turned. Adjusted brakes manually as well as the parking brake. No issues and releases when Jeep is off. I'll throw some pics off of before I replaced it. Still no fix for the dragging.
Bought a MC just now, but no one had proportioning valves. I know it's an easy job, but before I throw in the MC, do y'all even think that could be the issue? I would think the MC would cause all brakes to drag, not just the rears. Also, should I wait to get the PV before I install MC?





Keep in mind, those are month old drums and shoes
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 818
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
The ABS bleed requires the DRB tool.
It is possible to do a conventional bleed. The conventional bleed will purge air from all the brake lines. The conventional bleed is sufficient if there is not air in the ABS and if the fluid in the ABS is not contaminated.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 19
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From: Oahu, HI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Watch the linked video.
The ABS bleed requires the DRB tool.
It is possible to do a conventional bleed. The conventional bleed will purge air from all the brake lines. The conventional bleed is sufficient if there is not air in the ABS and if the fluid in the ABS is not contaminated.
The ABS bleed requires the DRB tool.
It is possible to do a conventional bleed. The conventional bleed will purge air from all the brake lines. The conventional bleed is sufficient if there is not air in the ABS and if the fluid in the ABS is not contaminated.
So I've flushed the fluid conventionally twice. I know the PO had to open the system to install the longer flex line, but 1. would that cause air to get into the ABS system and 2. would air in the ABS be causing this issue? My ABS light is still on but I haven't been able to confirm or deny that it's a sensor issue.



