IJM

I'm planning to put a hitch on my '98 XJ, and I'm looking at two similar options on etrailer.com. Both are made by Curt and rated at 5,000 lbs. towing capacity and 500 lbs. tongue weight. The difference is one uses the standard square and straight bar and the other uses a curved and round bar.

I'd post pictures, but I can't direct link and my Photobucket account is being a little *****, so here are the links.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...cleid=19987433

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=1998303279

Are there any advantages to one design over the other, particularly in terms of strength? I plan to use this as a recovery point (D-ring) and to tow a single-axle boat trailer and a aluminum double-axle car trailer.

yooperracing23

Rated the same=same strength they would both be fine for a tow point and your boat but I wouldn't wanna be towing cars around with it that's a lot of stress to put on your jeep

IJM

3,000 lb. car and 900 lb. trailer should be fairly simple, no? I'll be running an aux trans cooler.

sjalbert

You do have the 4.0 & an automatic transmission? The 4.0 with a manual & the 2.5 with either transmission is rated for 1500 lbs (I think). You only get the 5000 lb rating with the 4.0 & automatic. You'll also want a brake controller and brakes on the trailer to tow the car.

Parsnip

Even at that the torque converter is puny for towing. A 5 speed with automatic gears would be more optimal for a car trailer. But the a/t isn't up for towing even a car

IJM

Yes, 4.0 with the AW4. Planning to use a trailer with brakes and a brake controller.

Any thoughts on the two hitch designs?

sjalbert

I have owned both styles in the past and haven't noticed any real difference. Given that the roads in your area can have significant elevation changes don't expect to be able to run at speed limit or accelerate for quick merges onto the highway. You might also want to consider not towing in the stop (and sometimes go) traffic during the morning and evening commuting periods.

RTorrez1

I also have had both types and it never made a difference. As long as they are rated for the tow capacity that you need you will be fine with either one.

Basshark7

They don't make (or at least I have never seen) a class IV or V hitch in round tubing if that makes a difference. The towing capacity as per my 2000 XJ's owner's manual (4.0 AW4 D30/D35 4X4 3.55 diff ratio) 5000lbs with weight distributing hitch 3000lbs without the weight distributing hitch. My 98 pulled ~4500lbs with no issues except uphill deceleration (brake controller auxiliary trany cooler and weight distributing hitch 3.73 diff ratio w/rear limited slip otherwise same as 2000). My 2000 pulls 3000lbs with no issues. Any more than 3000lbs and I want the brake controller. If it were me I would take the one that sticks down the least. The factory hitch is held on by 8 bolts and a pair of nut strips and tucks up to the body nicely (if you can find one that isn't too rusty and have the time to prep and repaint it). After looking at the pictures on your links I have to say they don't go forward very far and that is going to put a lot of stress on a smaller section of your unirails than the stock hitch. Also the mounting hardware doesn't look particularly strong. I would recommend the nutstrips offered by JCROffroad or similar however they will not have the nut closest to the tailgate on either side and you would have to place a piece of steel at the nut closest to the engine to sandwich the unirail (reference: either of your links the picture of the driverside mounting brackets) this nut goes where the hole in the unirail is closer to the engine that is unused by these hitches (passenger side has the forward most bolt from the exhaust hanger bracket bolted into it). If it is down to those two hitches it looks like it will be a wash and the cheaper one should be just as good as the more expensive one.

sjalbert

Will any year factory hitch fit his '98? What about my '01? I've already ordered the nut strips (they should be here today) and scored a factory wiring harness and transmission cooler on Sunday.

Basshark7

The Factory hitches on my 98 and 2000 were identical and I can't imagine they would have changed the hitch for the last (US) production year. Fortunately 2001 is the oldest model year still listed on the mopar parts website. Unfortunately under frame bumpers / trailer tow they do not have the hitch itself listed otherwise I could just cross reference with my build sheet for the 98. The hitch for the 2000 was ordered from the dealership. According to "Rescue XJ" over on Jeep forum any year XJ hitch will fit any year XJ. If you got the factory nut strips you will notice there are 5 welded nuts per side. If you want to use all 5 and not just the 4 you will have to drill a hole in the receiver "legs" just lightly fasten the nut strips down and mark with silver pen where the new hole needs to go. Don't worry the hole is already in the unirail. If sourcing your own bolts don't forget the split lock washers. A question for those of you who have had both round and square tube. Was it any easier to get mud out from between the receiver and the back of the gas tank with the round tube vs the square?

Radi

No, they'll both easily tow more than the Jeep can. Some people say the tubular design feels more "flexy" with a heavy trailer but I've never noticed a difference.

Tekonsha Prodigy or P2 brake controller FTW.

Bobolink

I've been towing a 4400# boat to the gulf coast (500 miles round trip) 6-7 times a year for years. Keep the xmsn in 3rd (no overdrive), figure on 60 MPH max, add a cooler if you don't already have one, and a xmsn temp gauge is also something I like but you're okay without it. Change the fluid every year or two. The AW4 is dang near bullet proof. Your biggest concern is adequate braking.