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So... You think you think you know your motor oils

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Old 07-06-2010, 02:52 PM
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Exclamation So... You think you think you know your motor oils

This article may make all of our precious 4.0's last even longer

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

Its a long read but well worth it, near life changing
Old 07-06-2010, 03:02 PM
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Hi, you posted in the wrong forum. try "Cherokee chat" non tech...Tj
Old 07-06-2010, 03:07 PM
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i figured that it was a technical post because it has to do with the technicalities of oil and how to choose the right oil for your jeep
Old 07-06-2010, 03:10 PM
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i believe that article has more words in it that i have read the past year
Old 07-06-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TrekkerJmm
Hi, you posted in the wrong forum. try "Cherokee chat" non tech...Tj
This is a sticky in the cherokee tech form, seems like the same concept to me, my post is more like the laws of oil but i could be wrong

"Catalytic Converter Laws


Rules for Replacing Converters
In 1986, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency issued new guidelines for the construction, efficiency and installation of aftermarket catalytic converters. All CleanAir converters listed in this catalog have been designed, tested and manufactured to meet this policy.
In addition, CleanAir converter listed in this catalog is appropriate for use under the current requirements of the California Air Resources Board (C.A.R.B.).

E.P.A. guidelines state that replacement converters may be installed only in the following situations:
1. The vehicle is missing a converter
2. A state or local inspection program has determined that the existing converter needs replacement
3. Vehicles manufactured prior to 1996 must have more than 50,000 miles, and a legitimate need for replacement must be established and documented
4. In cases of OBD Il-equipped vehicles (1996 and later), the O.E. manufacturer's 8-year/80,000-mile warranty must have expired and a legitimate need for replacement must be established and documented.

Please note that Federal law prohibits removal or replacement of a properly functioning O.E. converter.

When replacement of the converter is appropriate (as outlined above), the E.P.A. further requires that:
1. It be installed in the same location as the original
2. It be the same type as the original (i.e., two-way, three-way, three-way plus air/three-way plus oxidation)
3. It be the proper model for the vehicle application as determined and specified by the manufacturer
4. It be properly connected to any existing air injection components on the vehicle
5. It be installed with any other required converter for a particular application
6. It be accompanied by a warranty information card to be completed by the installer.

http://www.catalyticconverter.org/law/"
Old 07-06-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by EMAXX620
i believe that article has more words in it that i have read the past year
yea but its a well worth it read man, like i said life changing to the half ***** mechanic hahah
Old 07-06-2010, 03:13 PM
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ok i dont wanna read all that... what kind of oil should i use then???
Old 07-06-2010, 03:17 PM
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It pretty simple, you go with the lowest first number....0WXX or 5WXX. Here's the same great write-up, just a little better format.

http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/

Last edited by djb383; 07-06-2010 at 03:23 PM.
Old 07-06-2010, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gatchmo5710
ok i dont wanna read all that... what kind of oil should i use then???
I use 0W 20 and have 320K AND it runs cooler 185 degrees in carolina 96 and humid siitin in traffic
Old 07-06-2010, 04:02 PM
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I'll have to study up on this for a while. I usually run 15-40 in my F100/460 since I broke it in on that oil for the Zinc it was supposed to have. A lot of people were wiping out flat tappet cams with regular oils at the time and still are if they do not use an oil additive.
I have no problems with the 15-40 but now I have this 90 Cherokee to think about. My wife's07 Mustang manual recommends 5W30 if I remember right as does the daughter's 96 Mustang. The Focus my son drives is a 0W30 if I remember right. I'll have to look at them.
I always figured the newer cars with tighter clearances needed a thinner oil.
Guess I need to read up and re-think everything
clint
Old 07-06-2010, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 93turqXJ
I use 0W 20 and have 320K AND it runs cooler 185 degrees in carolina 96 and humid siitin in traffic
What brand do you use and am I correct in assuming it's Synthetic?

Thanks
Old 07-06-2010, 04:29 PM
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Nice to know that all oils equal out at 212 degrees (engine operation temp) so go with a less thick oil to protect your engine at start up when it is at its most vulnerable state.
Old 07-06-2010, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Barlow
Nice to know that all oils equal out at 212 degrees (engine operation temp) so go with a less thick oil to protect your engine at start up when it is at its most vulnerable state.
I actually haven't had the cherokee for very long and put in Mobil 1 5-30, it's what I use in all my cars.

Maybe I should switch to 0-20. I wondering who makes a synthetic 0-20
Old 07-06-2010, 04:57 PM
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I've been doing this for years already. Lighter weight in the summer and Even lighter in the winter. Don't know why. Some old dude that I met years ago whom drove a jeep as well told me this at a Independent Auto parts store.
Redline makes a 0-30. So does Royal Purple. Mobil 1 does as well. Though it does seem less common.

Last edited by 07Negative; 07-06-2010 at 05:01 PM.
Old 07-07-2010, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1armyguy
What brand do you use and am I correct in assuming it's Synthetic?

Thanks
"I actually haven't had the cherokee for very long and put in Mobil 1 5-30, it's what I use in all my cars.

Maybe I should switch to 0-20. I wondering who makes a synthetic 0-20"

Tisk tisk guys you didnt read the article!! Penzoil and Mobil One
From The Article:
"20 Grade:
Mobil One 0W-20
Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 0W-20
Renewable Lubricants Inc. 0W-20*"
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