sluggish starter motor '96
#1
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
sluggish starter motor '96
The starter motor on my '96 is becoming very sluggish
This symptom has been getting worse and it is apparent to be worse with heat, to the extent it wouldnt turn over today when very hot, cooled down for a couple of hours, and it will turn over
I have swapped batteries,and they measure good, cleaned earths & cables
The starter motor has oil dripping on it from the adaptor o-ring, for an unknown time prior to my ownership. Will fit as soon as the parts arrive in a few days
Is it a common issue for a starter to go bad in this manner ?? (getting sluggish due to oil bath)
my next step is to swap in a used starter
This symptom has been getting worse and it is apparent to be worse with heat, to the extent it wouldnt turn over today when very hot, cooled down for a couple of hours, and it will turn over
I have swapped batteries,and they measure good, cleaned earths & cables
The starter motor has oil dripping on it from the adaptor o-ring, for an unknown time prior to my ownership. Will fit as soon as the parts arrive in a few days
Is it a common issue for a starter to go bad in this manner ?? (getting sluggish due to oil bath)
my next step is to swap in a used starter
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Way back when I had a '79 Malibu that the starter in it did the same thing. I always figured it was thermal failure. In my '00 XJ my starter started acting up. Go to start, nothing, little love tap, and it started right up. When it happened a second time I just bit the bullet and bought a new starter. It had a fair amount of oil on it. Always figured that was what made it start to act up. Thing is oil was not getting on to it from the oil adapter ring. My theory was that the starter got doused over the years from changing the oil. I always cover the starter with rags when removing the filter.
#3
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I would start by doing a voltage drop test between the battery and the starter (you can google/youtube that). If there is significant voltage drop, then I would focus on cleaning up connections and the condition of the cables between the battery and starter. If there is no voltage drop, then I would begin to consider replacing the starter.
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yes, that's common with oil soaked starters.
#5
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
it was the starter, but it put me through a rigmarole to fix
installed a spare starter I had loose, and found only got a solenoid click...furthermore, the old starter worked on the bench
doubting myself, I swapped out first the + cables, then earth from a known working vehicle, no joy
remove the starter from my spare, noting how easy it is to get that top bolt on a lifted vehicle
install in other vehicle, and we have success!..only took 30min to remove both starters and install one 2nd time round
probably strip them and see if I can get one going to move my spare XJ
having an identical vehicle that is fully operational is a godsend to keeping these older units on the road
Used to have International Scouts
installed a spare starter I had loose, and found only got a solenoid click...furthermore, the old starter worked on the bench
doubting myself, I swapped out first the + cables, then earth from a known working vehicle, no joy
remove the starter from my spare, noting how easy it is to get that top bolt on a lifted vehicle
install in other vehicle, and we have success!..only took 30min to remove both starters and install one 2nd time round
probably strip them and see if I can get one going to move my spare XJ
having an identical vehicle that is fully operational is a godsend to keeping these older units on the road
Used to have International Scouts
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
A guy like you would probably enjoy disassembling the starter and cleaning it all out with brake cleaner.
I've done it 3 or 4 times with success.
I've done it 3 or 4 times with success.
#7
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So i do need to get my black spare Jeep moving, strip down both SMs, the one out of my vehicle is Chrysler original, unit is dirty and brushes are very worn, so I set it aside, and looked at the other
I had purchased it from a Jeep owning mechanic who carried many spares for his outback expeditions. It had been overhauled with new brushes,
however, I see the brush retaining springs are not original style, an inferior design, and two have slipped off the brushes. I manage to get it back together, tests ok on bench, mount the b!tch, and it still only clicks!
ok..clean & assemble the one that has just failed, looks like it should work, will test & mount it 2morrow. Meanwhile a brand new AC-Delco is winging its way across the Country for way less than half price
I do not know whether new brush kit assembly is available for these units?...if so, that is generally all that would be needed to get them going again imo
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#8
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Year: 1990
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take the solenoid apart.
#9
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Year: 96
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thanks for your tips on this.
for the benefit of future travellers with Starter motors
It appears the problem must be pitted main contacts within the solenoid..it does not appear these can be accessed, although possibly the case can be pried apart, and contacts filed
prior to removing this SM, I shorted all 3 bolts with a ring spanner, and it started instantly. I suppose I could have left it in my lifted spare, but decided to install the other cleaned up SM, and it works fine
While they were both out, I performed the following test..short a 30amp wire across the 3 terminals..one SM ran much slower than the other
In the past, on another vehicle, I did replace solenoid points..they are physically closed by the solenoid plunger when it is energised, and take the big current to the starter motor.
They become pitted, and simply wont pass enough current to spin the car engine (100+ amps), but will still spin the starter..a few amps
watch this youtube before u dismantle one
the brush assembly must be detached from cover to assemble. All screws very tight, I needed an impact gun, correct bits + valve grind paste
for the benefit of future travellers with Starter motors
It appears the problem must be pitted main contacts within the solenoid..it does not appear these can be accessed, although possibly the case can be pried apart, and contacts filed
prior to removing this SM, I shorted all 3 bolts with a ring spanner, and it started instantly. I suppose I could have left it in my lifted spare, but decided to install the other cleaned up SM, and it works fine
While they were both out, I performed the following test..short a 30amp wire across the 3 terminals..one SM ran much slower than the other
In the past, on another vehicle, I did replace solenoid points..they are physically closed by the solenoid plunger when it is energised, and take the big current to the starter motor.
They become pitted, and simply wont pass enough current to spin the car engine (100+ amps), but will still spin the starter..a few amps
watch this youtube before u dismantle one
the brush assembly must be detached from cover to assemble. All screws very tight, I needed an impact gun, correct bits + valve grind paste
#10
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Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
thanks for your tips on this.
for the benefit of future travellers with Starter motors
It appears the problem must be pitted main contacts within the solenoid..it does not appear these can be accessed, although possibly the case can be pried apart, and contacts filed
prior to removing this SM, I shorted all 3 bolts with a ring spanner, and it started instantly. I suppose I could have left it in my lifted spare, but decided to install the other cleaned up SM, and it works fine
While they were both out, I performed the following test..short a 30amp wire across the 3 terminals..one SM ran much slower than the other
In the past, on another vehicle, I did replace solenoid points..they are physically closed by the solenoid plunger when it is energised, and take the big current to the starter motor.
They become pitted, and simply wont pass enough current to spin the car engine (100+ amps), but will still spin the starter..a few amps
watch this youtube before u dismantle one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW6f1VK8nv8
the brush assembly must be detached from cover to assemble. All screws very tight, I needed an impact gun, correct bits + valve grind paste
for the benefit of future travellers with Starter motors
It appears the problem must be pitted main contacts within the solenoid..it does not appear these can be accessed, although possibly the case can be pried apart, and contacts filed
prior to removing this SM, I shorted all 3 bolts with a ring spanner, and it started instantly. I suppose I could have left it in my lifted spare, but decided to install the other cleaned up SM, and it works fine
While they were both out, I performed the following test..short a 30amp wire across the 3 terminals..one SM ran much slower than the other
In the past, on another vehicle, I did replace solenoid points..they are physically closed by the solenoid plunger when it is energised, and take the big current to the starter motor.
They become pitted, and simply wont pass enough current to spin the car engine (100+ amps), but will still spin the starter..a few amps
watch this youtube before u dismantle one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW6f1VK8nv8
the brush assembly must be detached from cover to assemble. All screws very tight, I needed an impact gun, correct bits + valve grind paste
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