shutting off!
im so lost about my '00 chero. i keep getting a p0340 code. i replaced the cam position sensor and it still stalls. ive traced the wires and nothing seems bad in the run. tried a diff pcm. its just keeps getting worse. b4 it was just stalling intermittently at idle. today i could hardly keep her running! shes now stalling while doing 40+ mph. its becoming a safety hazard! ??????? im so ready to turtle and burn the *****!
any ideas?
she is an ex police cruiser if that makes a diff
respectfully,
phil
any ideas?
she is an ex police cruiser if that makes a diff
respectfully,
phil
Last edited by 2000sport; Sep 3, 2011 at 06:59 PM.
Did you replace the CAMSHAFT sensor or CRANKSHAFT sensor?
Our jeeps use hall effect sensor in the distributor and crankshaft sensor behind the engine above the transmission. The hall sensor is under the distributor.
usually when one of these 2 fails best bet is to replace the hall and crankshaft sensor...
You swap out PCM and problem is still there....you will need to verify your wheel speed sensors are functioning properly....sounds like an intermediate problem and will need a lab scope to catch the problem.
Our jeeps use hall effect sensor in the distributor and crankshaft sensor behind the engine above the transmission. The hall sensor is under the distributor.
usually when one of these 2 fails best bet is to replace the hall and crankshaft sensor...
You swap out PCM and problem is still there....you will need to verify your wheel speed sensors are functioning properly....sounds like an intermediate problem and will need a lab scope to catch the problem.
If you can do a fuel pressure test real quick just to see the psi.
If the PSI of fuel is good your gonna be chasing a wiring problem and that can be a pain.
Get a wiring diagram and start tracing each components regarding hall and crankshaft sensors to see if the signal is clear or intermediate....you need a scope to catch these issues.
Check distributor wires and cap/rotors/ignition coil OHMS.
Check the TPS sensor to make sure it works (40mph stalls)
Idle stalls check the intake air motor. (this controls your idle)
BEFORE you do all above get some die electric grease and disconnect your wiring harness. Check for any wires loose or pins bent out too far (etc). Do this for the engine controls such as distributor, pcm, tps, iac, imc, baro and any wiring harness associated with the sensors related to engine management.
If the die electric/reconnect does not solve your problems then you gonna have to find the loose/break in the wiring harness.
If the PSI of fuel is good your gonna be chasing a wiring problem and that can be a pain.
Get a wiring diagram and start tracing each components regarding hall and crankshaft sensors to see if the signal is clear or intermediate....you need a scope to catch these issues.
Check distributor wires and cap/rotors/ignition coil OHMS.
Check the TPS sensor to make sure it works (40mph stalls)
Idle stalls check the intake air motor. (this controls your idle)
BEFORE you do all above get some die electric grease and disconnect your wiring harness. Check for any wires loose or pins bent out too far (etc). Do this for the engine controls such as distributor, pcm, tps, iac, imc, baro and any wiring harness associated with the sensors related to engine management.
If the die electric/reconnect does not solve your problems then you gonna have to find the loose/break in the wiring harness.
If you can do a fuel pressure test real quick just to see the psi.
If the PSI of fuel is good your gonna be chasing a wiring problem and that can be a pain.
Get a wiring diagram and start tracing each components regarding hall and crankshaft sensors to see if the signal is clear or intermediate....you need a scope to catch these issues.
Check distributor wires and cap/rotors/ignition coil OHMS.
Check the TPS sensor to make sure it works (40mph stalls)
Idle stalls check the intake air motor. (this controls your idle)
BEFORE you do all above get some die electric grease and disconnect your wiring harness. Check for any wires loose or pins bent out too far (etc). Do this for the engine controls such as distributor, pcm, tps, iac, imc, baro and any wiring harness associated with the sensors related to engine management.
If the die electric/reconnect does not solve your problems then you gonna have to find the loose/break in the wiring harness.
If the PSI of fuel is good your gonna be chasing a wiring problem and that can be a pain.
Get a wiring diagram and start tracing each components regarding hall and crankshaft sensors to see if the signal is clear or intermediate....you need a scope to catch these issues.
Check distributor wires and cap/rotors/ignition coil OHMS.
Check the TPS sensor to make sure it works (40mph stalls)
Idle stalls check the intake air motor. (this controls your idle)
BEFORE you do all above get some die electric grease and disconnect your wiring harness. Check for any wires loose or pins bent out too far (etc). Do this for the engine controls such as distributor, pcm, tps, iac, imc, baro and any wiring harness associated with the sensors related to engine management.
If the die electric/reconnect does not solve your problems then you gonna have to find the loose/break in the wiring harness.
have 5 volts @ the cmp. have no distributor.
i did have a tps code once but when she stalls the code(s) clear. have done a tps range sweep @ 20k.
the iac works fine. pulled it and when the key is turned to run she seats.
havent tried the die electric grease yet
Your jeep has coil on plugs?
hummmmm I remember these sucka cause these problems....
OHM out each coil on plugs and see if they are in specs...I don't know what the specs are since I use a distributor.
Coil on plug sounds like the suspect...those things can act normal and hidden problems until you catch it.
As far as you getting 5v signal to crank/cam sensor but what is the ground side to pcm doing? The PCM needs the return signal usually the ground signal. You will have to check all data and find the pin wire to pcm harness and test the return signal while someone is cranking the engine. If you do not get a clean signal on the return ground side to PCM while the motor is cranking or the signal is intermediate then you have located the problem. You will have to fix that wiring or find the loose or broken wire and repair it. The ground signal should show on/off to PCM.
(Here is an example return ground data to PCM depending on sensor.... 5v to power side then 5v drops to 0v as the fly wheel magnets hits the sensor...PCM knows the location of the crank....you should see 5v 0v 5v 0v but if you see 0v 0v 0v 0v then 5v 0v 5v 0v 0v 0v...this means an intermediate problem of the return signal.) Just an example...
Take your ground wires and reground them by the battery and check to make sure you have 12.4 to 12.8 at battery with engine off and with engine in over 13.5v.
I bet you got a bad coil or your crank/cam sensor wires to PCM is loose/faulty.
Check the coil wires for any heat related issues..
I hate to be rude if all above does not solve your problem you are going to have to do a volumetric fuel load test...(how fast your fuel pump under load can pump with engine running to rule out faulty module fuel control/electric motor). Low pressure or proper pressure at idle can be tricky and doing a load test will stress the component to fail so you will know.
hummmmm I remember these sucka cause these problems....
OHM out each coil on plugs and see if they are in specs...I don't know what the specs are since I use a distributor.
Coil on plug sounds like the suspect...those things can act normal and hidden problems until you catch it.
As far as you getting 5v signal to crank/cam sensor but what is the ground side to pcm doing? The PCM needs the return signal usually the ground signal. You will have to check all data and find the pin wire to pcm harness and test the return signal while someone is cranking the engine. If you do not get a clean signal on the return ground side to PCM while the motor is cranking or the signal is intermediate then you have located the problem. You will have to fix that wiring or find the loose or broken wire and repair it. The ground signal should show on/off to PCM.
(Here is an example return ground data to PCM depending on sensor.... 5v to power side then 5v drops to 0v as the fly wheel magnets hits the sensor...PCM knows the location of the crank....you should see 5v 0v 5v 0v but if you see 0v 0v 0v 0v then 5v 0v 5v 0v 0v 0v...this means an intermediate problem of the return signal.) Just an example...
Take your ground wires and reground them by the battery and check to make sure you have 12.4 to 12.8 at battery with engine off and with engine in over 13.5v.
I bet you got a bad coil or your crank/cam sensor wires to PCM is loose/faulty.
Check the coil wires for any heat related issues..
I hate to be rude if all above does not solve your problem you are going to have to do a volumetric fuel load test...(how fast your fuel pump under load can pump with engine running to rule out faulty module fuel control/electric motor). Low pressure or proper pressure at idle can be tricky and doing a load test will stress the component to fail so you will know.
Last edited by CherokeeInAZ; Sep 4, 2011 at 04:30 AM.
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