North Hill

Moving to the pacific northwest so I'll be puting the sports car up on CL. I have always wanted an XJ so here I am! I am new to the Jeep thing and as such my knowledge is definately lacking.

So, first off, here's what I want...
A 4x4 Cherokee XJ 2 door or 4 door for around $3500 or less. It will be a daily driver that goes off road regularly. Nothing extreme, just trail and camping duty.

I plan on a 3.5ish inch lift and 31-32" tires plus the typical goodies and whateve necesary to maintain good street manors. I'll definately do engine mods. All the usual bolt ons plus Cam and performance head/intake for sure. If I ever find myself in need of a fresh short block, it will be a stroker.

So... are there certain models and /or years that are better for my goals than others?

Since I'll prob be buying something with around 200K miles on it, what problematic things do I need to be aware of?

What about OBD/OBDII? Since I want to do the engine mods, I need to be sure I don't screw myself here. I am looking at a '96 with (I think) OBD2. Is that a bad Idea?

Are there specific major components that I should avoid? transmission, transfer case? axles? etc...

Oh! And auto vs. manual transmission? Is one better in terms of reliability/handling higher than stock power levels?

Any buying advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!

BlueRidgeMark

97-99 are the sweet spot. You get OBDII, which is a big help. 96 is an oddball transition year, and it can be wonky trying to get the right parts. Fine once you have that worked out, but you won't get full OBDII.

2000 and 2001 have a flaw in the head casting which makes them prone to cracking. Not all do, but too many. That said, there are quality replacement heads available for around $450.

Cooling system is the biggie. Make sure it's in good shape. You can replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and hoses for about $200, so it's not bad.

Both the stick (AX-15) and auto (AW4) are rock solid and will handle much more than the engine can deliver. The AW4 is in current use in many Toyotas with far more horses.

You want the Chrysler 8.25 rear end, not the Dana, if you are going to be lifting and off-roading.

Stick with Mopar thermostats and most of the sensors. The aftermarket stuff, even Bosch, is flaky in these things.

Grounds are a big cause of electrical problems. See my sig, #1.

Don't expect these things to get good mileage or be powerhouses. They have the aerodynamics of a brick and a good, solid reliable engine that's more like a tractor engine than a race engine.

Welcome!

North Hill

Thank you for the tips! I'm gad to hear that the Auto trans is a good unit. Also I was surprised to hear about the 8.25 being the better rear end. Glad I asked! LOL

Much appreciated

BlueRidgeMark

There are a couple of good threads here you might want to read:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/loo...osting-224555/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/axle-info-148057/

fb97xj1

Rust is another, if not THE biggie, imo. Floors, rockers and rear 1/4s in particular. Dont be afraid to crawl underneath and take a look. Wear safety goggles, just in case.

There were two transfer cases available, the 242 and 231. Both have Part Time 4wd (slick surfaces only like mud and snow, for example), while the 242 also has Full Time 4wd capability that allows it to be in 4wd all year long. The 242 will have a Full Time selection on the shifter. The 231 will not.

231 on the left, 242 on the right.

peligro113

OBD II became a federal requirement for vehicles built after Jan 1, 1996 so any vehicle made after 1996 has it. I agree that the 1996 usually has a few wonky quirks which other XJ's do not have but seeing how it's the year the most XJ's were made it is more common I would not turn one down if it fit the rest of my criteria.

andrewmp6

All of them are on point,But ill say with the t cases if you want more a daily driver the np242 is better on road in the snow and stuff like that.The np231 is better off road because of its aftermarket is bigger.But both t cases are great and really the only weak points in a jeep are rust and things old owners have done to them.I would look for the most clean and virgin xj you can find.If they kept maintenance records that would make me want it more.I would never buy a lifted jeep for many reasons,I rather have a virgin one that i can build how i want vs spending more money trying to fix other problems that show up.

BlueRidgeMark

Not true. There are many 96 vehicles that do not have OBDII. Some have nothing, some have partial implementations. With federal regs, it's never simple.

jordan96xj

I didn't know the particulars before I bought my 96 XJ. I know them now though. I certainly would not rule out a late-year 96. In the rust belt, pre-97s are rare, so mine gets a little more positive attention. I don't know if that matters to most people though.

Although I didn't know to check -before- I bought it, mine happens to have full OBD2 and mostly 97 connectors. Sometimes I have to be careful looking up sensors for 96s, because I'll end up getting the older style round connectors, when most of my Jeep takes the newer slightly rectangular connectors. I take pictures now, before going to get parts.

The fuel pump assembly has been the only part so far that is difficult to find (not the pump itself, but the entire in-tank assembly). But the flip side, is that I can service my fuel pump without lowering the fuel tank (because the assembly is front mounted, instead of on top). Between Amazon, Ebay, Rockauto, and the local parts chains. I haven't had any parts availability issues.

peligro113

Actually with regs it very simple you either are in compliance or you are not, OBD II standards were supposed to be implemented in 1994 but the EPA allowed for waivers from compliance for model years 1994 and 1995 which is why you have vehicles from those models years that had partial OBD II or a mix of OBD I and II but manufacturers had to be fully compliant by 1996 for vehicles that were 8500 pounds and below with gas engines. If the vehicle was under 8500 pounds and diesel a waiver could still be obtained in 1996 so if you have a Diesel engine you might have OBD II or a mix of OBD I and OBD II until 1997 at which time you had to be compliant. I would hate for the OP to miss out on a vehicle because of incorrect information. I was a tech around this time and specialized in electronic engine controls so I am familiar with the regs.

https://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe/...yEntry=4&slide

peligro113

You are correct Jordan96xj I always remove any electronic parts with connectors and bring them with me to the part stores because of the possible mid year changes in 1996 XJ connectors. The fuel pump is available from Crown but they are pricey because not many parts companies make them for 1996 but there are work arounds for retrofitting pumps on the web.

North Hill

well damn. I was looking at a '96 off road virgin, all stock for $3500. Now I'm second guessing that one and keeping my eyes open for a 97-99. I am currently in so cal so luckily rust isn't a big problem here. Definately something to look out for though.

Thank you all for the great information!

peligro113

I bought a one owner 1996 XJ that was untouched and I would do it again, I haven't had any issues finding parts that I have needed, do not let people dissuade you from buying a pristine 1996 XJ.

Production Numbers

# of XJs built in given year:

84 - 93,326
85 - 120,328
86 - 107,225
87 - 139,295
88 - 187,136
89 - 207,216
90 - 151,230
91 - 151,578
92 - 137,826
93 - 144,961
94 - 123,391
95 - 120,234
96 - 286,463
97 - 258,958
98 - 182,845
99 - 186,116
00 - 165,590
01 - 120,454

You can also find parts in junkyards

jordan96xj

96s are fine. Done a ton of work on mine with little fuss. I would just make sure it has OBD2 (connect a cheap $25 scanner and check for yourself).