Scratched bearing while changing rear main seal
 

Hello there, looking for some guidance. I was changing my leaking rear main seal and was not being careful enough while removing the lower half from the main bearing cap. I didn’t pull out the lower bearing and my tool slipped and scratched it. I’m wondering if I should try to smooth it out somehow and keep using it or if I need to replace it.

I’ve read a lot of forum posts with some saying that replacing the bearings without pulling the crank and getting it ground and polished is bad, and that it’s best to just keep using a scratched bearing. Others say it’s no big deal to change them out.

It’s a 2000 Cherokee just passed 200,000 miles.

what should I do here?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a3f170ec8.jpeg
This is the scratch I made on one side of the bearing. It catches on my fingernail. The stuff in the middle was already there.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f83765e29.jpeg
these I think I also created. Shallower but I can also feel them.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1f4b606cf.jpeg
Further our view

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9b13047cc.jpeg
Further out view

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b3a8330ba.jpeg
Numbers on back.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7147ac200.jpeg
Numbers on back. Is this a standard size bearing?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9e8eddf12.jpeg
Crank Journal
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6c22058d9.jpeg

I'm of the "no big deal, change them out" camp. The local engine shop owner recommended replacing the rod bearings every time I was in there...

You could buy new bearings and replace just the one damaged cap. Do you have an engine hoist/crane? You could pull the engine and stick all new bearings in it. Or If you can drop the crank a little bit, you ought to be able to get new bearings (all) in there. Depends if you want to remove the front or not Wouldn't be a pleasant work angle in the vehicle, but. I'm sure you've thought about all these options already....

You probably shouldn't 'sand' the bearings. They're like tin coated, which would be easily removed, which you dont want to do.

If you do a pre-assembly check of the tolerance with plasti-gage, and the gap is good, I don't see why you couldn't just replace that cap bearing.

Replace bearing and move on. Also, looks like its a standard size. Most .010 or .020 bearing have it stamped in the back side. The 04-00 is a date stamp so it seems like that is the OEM bearing.

MS1947A is the part number from Clevite for main bearings.

I agree....this would be the quickest and easy fix as well as not busting your wallet.