xjwanted

Okay so while surfing the web on rusty's offroad I found that they sell a budget boost that offers coil spacers and add-a-leafs, this lift should yield about 2" of lift, and it only costs $99 which is perfect for my budget, (i've spent alot of money on my jeep in the past, and dont feel like shelling out much more). With this lift I know im going to need the following...

1. 4 new u-bolts ~$30
2. 2 new u-bolt plates ~$7
3. Steering alignment (well by the summer I will need this anyway)

Am I going to need to get extended brake lines or not? This jeep may in the future be in situations which require some flexing and I dont want to rip the brake lines off, and what else will I maybe need?

This is a low budget build ( I'm not poor just I dont want to spend everything I have on my jeep) want to add 2" of lift and not spend much money so I will be installing this myself. This jeep will rarely ever see the trail which is one of the reasons I dont want to spend a fortune on the lift, don't need anything extreme, and honestly I dont want to destroy my gas mileage and make my jeep completely unstable.

So good people of cherokeeforum help me out, by answering my questions and telling me what you think about rusty's products, and wether i have a good idea going here or am wasting my time.

***Catch 22 of it is that in order to get the lift I have to get all A's this semester in school***

Well?

xebraj

You won't need new brake lines, i ran 2" in front and 3" in the back with no problems at all and i flexed it out all the time. when you go up around 4-5" you'll want to replace the brake lines though. And just so you know those add a leafs will sag after a while, you might consider shackles or blocks instead although some would say blocks aren't much better.

xjwanted

hot s*** were saving money here thanks man, was worried that i would need those
but thanks

ckysodkorn_xj

you mean yours didnt come with u bolts? and why do you need new plates? i got mine from 4wd and it came with the AAL spacers and ubolts

ckysodkorn_xj

and here an easy way to install the spacers as i just got done typing to someone else..( this is how i did it and it wasnt hard.. just a PITA) k. you can not use a compresser by taking your lower and possibly your upper control arms loose and droping the whole axle but they are a pain i used a beraker bar and like 4 diffent types of penitration stuff (4wd pb blaters ect.) all you have to do is go to advance auto and ask to rent a coil spring compresser theyll charge u like 55 bucks but you get it back when you bring the tool back. you need: floor jack, 2 jackstands, rachet set and wrenches. sizes are 15mm for shocks 1/2 for most of the rest. take yer lugs loose and jack the axle up by the hoghead take tires off (make sure to put it on jack stands too.) take your sway bar loose. un hook your shocks from the bottom. unhook the coil spring by the on nut that holds it on. lower the jack all the way.. you LCA should be supporting your axle now. take the jack to one side of the vehicle and VERY carefully jack one side of the axle up as far as you can get it witout taking it off jackstands. you DO NOT want alot of pressure on yer hub as they will bend. go to the lowerd side and your coil will come out.simply wiggle it till it comes out. you should be able to move it easy. pull the ruber bushing off the top of the bump stop install spacer THEN the bushing. bushing helps hold the spacer in place. take the coil spring compresser and slide the whole thing down into the coil spring and compress it. try to keep the top of the compresser to one side so it doesnt get in the way of the bumpstop when you ram it in thier. (this could end badly)after its compressed slide it on into place as best you can. the compresser is going to be longer than the spring. (this parts not exactly safe) put the srping in as best you can then get a regular hammer with claws on one end and tap it into place. the compresser is going to be to long but thats ok..(use common sence as best as you can and get atleast half the spring on the axle.) making sure the top is in good stand behind the fender and give it a good wack. one of three things is going to happen. 1 the compresser will be lodged on the axle 2. the compresser lets go and the spring pops in place. or 3. the compresser lets go and the spring pops back the wrong way. if the first one happens (still standing behind the fender) knock the compresser claws off and the spring will pop in place. if number 3 happens.. clean your pants.. light a ciggarette and try again. once they are in place and the compresser is off youll notice that you cant simply take the compresser out. what you need to do is unskrew the bottom claws on the compresser and slide them out of the spring and the top falls off. pull that threw to. now comes the reason why u need a hammer with claws on the back. take the hammer with the claws pointed up and hook it on the second to the bottom ring of the srping. pry on it and the compresser will fall out. turn the coil till its in the right place and lower the axle. on the same side you want to tighten the nut that holds the spring back in place. pull your jack to the other side and repeat.

qdw2008

i believe that lift comes with u bolts and such i looked at it myself

smtippin

Why not get the spacer shackle lift? Then, if you decide to go taller and get leafpacks, you'll have extended shackles in case you get the fever and the 3-4.5" lift isn't enough? You don't mess with the axle on this if I'm not mistaken.

PS. I don't know squat about these budget lifting options. MAybe you've got sound reason for your decision. All I know is it is easier to lift and it isn't going to sag on you over time. Are your stock 98 leafs in good shape?

s

xjwanted

fellows calm donw i haven't bought the lift yet, besides i'm not a big fan of blocks at all, a buddy o fmine braked hard and those things slipped right freakin off, and btw im looking at the lift off of rustys directly it doesn't mention anything about u bolts or plates

the leafs are in okay shape, just a slightly surface rusted so thats why i want to clean them up and just put the add a leafs inthe aals will compensate for the sag according to rsty's, and this is a jeep i use to get too and from school and i dont need anyhting extreme, also my paretns wont allow me to get anything that makes it too tall or unstable and i want a moderate height increas of 2 inches

ckysodkorn_xj

why do u need new plates?

xjwanted

well heres my plan, while im under the jeep im going to

1. install lift
2. sand down and repaint leafs (indvidually)
2. all new bolts for leaf springs and new plates and u bolts
3. change diff fluid for front and rear
4. sand and repaint axles
5. new leaf spring bushings

the jeep sits level even with 200,000 plus miles on it and its still sitting level with no sag in the rear, so i want to lift it just the 2 inches

greenbergsxj

i really don't think the add a leafs are the best way to go..

i would definitely do a 2 inch shackle lift in the rear, it'll last longer, doesn't require welding, and allows you to keep everything else stock if you ever choose to build back down. also allows you to build up more with new springs if you get some down the road

xjwanted

why not just use the aal's they will be true lift and what if the spring does start to sag dow the road then im screwed, my dads only letting me do ths one time,

is there any way of seeing how good the leaf spring is or do you just eyeball it and hope for the best

ckysodkorn_xj

AAL's are fine i've had a 2 in lift on my cj for over 6 years and its ALL AAL. no sag. and it's been wheeled hard.

Burgy

Blocks slipped off?! I've never heard of this, I was actually planing on putting a set on my rear this weekend so I could fit my new Rubicon Moab's w/ 245/75/16 untill I put on a lift this summer.