Running warmer than usual..why?
 

96 (153k) on 3"lift
4.0L
AW4
231


I've noticed at idle the gauge reads more around 215 than the 200 I'm used to seeing. Loaded and climbing a long hill it stays around 220 and the aux fan barely keeps it in check it seems. Road levels out and it takes a few minutes to return to "normal".

New CSF 2 core and fluid in October,new cap,no weep hole leaks at the WP, and pressure is good when I squeeze the upper rad hose.Aux fan works fine. The only thing I havent changed recently is the thermostat. It's not more than a year old though and it's a Stant super 195. on warmup I see fluctuations in temp telling me it is working.

Just stuck in a ZJ HD fan clutch hoping my old stock one was the prob since it was unable to rotate for a few hours when a mount block bracket failed.. It's still running a bit warmer than usual though .
My condenser coil is pretty banged up, so airflow isn't the best, but this didn't start till about a month ago and the condenser has been screwed for 3 years now.. Any ideas?


I thought it was just the summer weather but last night it wasn't over 70, and when I let it idle in the driveway, it sits at 215. It used to NEVER go over 210, normally closer to 195-200 no matter what the load or conditions..
What would cause this?

215 is still fine.
 

You can change the T-Stat. Flushing the radiator helps a lot. Im putting a 160 or 180 T Stat in mine. Stock is 195.:)

I considered that, but want to keep the 195. I've heard some have issues with lower temp T stats.
That, and in theory, a lower temp Stat will just make the engine take a bit longer to reach the same eventual operating temp.
The coolant is new looking.

What size radiator did you remove? My 96 came with a three core radiator.

honestly I don't know.
all I knew was the new one was the same size. I understand the 3 row is thicker right?

The tanks and top rail are the same thickness only the center finned core area is thicker.

similar problem with my 96 also
 

Greetings from Indiana -

I just bought my first cherokee a few weeks ago and am addressing a similar problem. T-stat was replaced by PO and coolent looks brand new. I have it at the local radiator shop this morning and will let you know what they have to say about it.

BK

Thanks. Good lookin' out!

Curious to see what your outcome is.

I just don't trust any factory temp gauges. Install an quality aftermarket temp gauge and watch actual coolant temps yoyo 35-40 degrees......especially this time of year running a/c and that's perfectly normal. There's no way that dinky XJ radiator design will maintain actual coolant temps within 5 degrees unless you're talking in the dead of winter.

Is there a good place to mount the sensor to get an accurate reading? If so, where?

Humidity is higher this year which will make things run warmer ,is science still a part of school?:confused1:

Thought that was kinda like wind chill.....only effects humans, animals and plants. No?

I know the gauges aren't accurate but there's still a constant I'm used to and that has raised on the gauge.
All that aside, my auxillary electric fan kicks on at least once or twice almost any trip after about 20 minutes and it kicks off and on at idle in park after one or 2 stat cycles/15 minutes. Before this, there were times I wondered if the aux. fan even worked since it never kicked on except in VERY hot weather in gridlock. Now it's my almost daily companion lol.
Just kind of keeping my eye on a new variable in the Jeep's behavior and want to nip it in the bud if I can.

think about wind chill too, its gonna freeze faster just like a human and you dont like humidity temp higher in all states this year too.

Mine is running a little warmer than usual as well, but then again, it has been almost 100 outside. Sits just a bit about the 210 but the fan kicks on and drops it back to normal. Only happens at stops though. Yours just seems to be getting worked a little hard. I am no expert in this area but I might consider less coolant and more water mix and see if it cools faster. Dont move to a 160 t-stat. That will not resolve a hot issue. If you have a 195 right now and its heating up to 220 but not fully overheating then your T-stat is most likely open like its supposed to.