Rough Country or Rubicon Express.....
#46
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Don't forget to factor shipping in to the cost as it can get fairly pricey. Also, I'm not sure what actual height is achieved wit the RC lift, which may matter. When thinking price, people on the forum have referred to a guy who can get them 10% off RC stuff. That may be a huge motivator. If you search the forum for lifts, you'll find the name and operation he is affiliated with for the deal.
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#47
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Location: Warrenville
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Year: 1998 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
When I ordered my 4.5 in rc lift for my xj about 5 months ago the dude told me that they have already sold 24 xj 4.5 in lifts that day it was only 1 in the afternoon. So that tells u something right there. As far as rc v.s. re Ill be able to judge here shortly buddy is lifting his zj 3.5 in. Should give me a ball park Idea as to fit and finish and performance. IMO RE is overpriced if your in to wheeling. Why pay more for something ur gonna beat on. Parts are going to be 2wice as much when u break em. If u wheel hard enough u can break anybodys product
#48
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
you pay for something thatll work.
#49
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Slip-Yoke Eliminator. It replaces the slip-yoke end of your rear drive shaft with a fixed yoke type. When you get a good sized lift and start to flex, the slip yoke can slide completely off and drop the drive shaft out. They also lengthen the rear drive line a bit, so some people will use one to reduce the angle to help with vibrations.
#50
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Every XJ responds differently to different lifts so there is no way to be sure whether you'll need an SYE or not, but the 97 and greater XJs tend to get vibes more than the 96 and fewer so there is a chance you'll need one. As the lift gets larger than 3", your chances get much higher for needing an SYE.
OR...
a transfer case drop. Ultimately you're looking to keep you lines parallel and a t-case drop with shims may do it for you but many note that your lift is negated some what if you're just going to lower and therefore expose your soft underbelly to the trail.
Others will definitely jump in on this.
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OR...
a transfer case drop. Ultimately you're looking to keep you lines parallel and a t-case drop with shims may do it for you but many note that your lift is negated some what if you're just going to lower and therefore expose your soft underbelly to the trail.
Others will definitely jump in on this.
s
#51
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Year: 1998 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
This is true I havent broken any of my RC parts yet. But when I do I can fall back on their customer service.....And yes it is mostly rustys parts that I see fail. Im a RE and an RC fan just cant afford RE
#53
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO"
Don't forget to factor shipping in to the cost as it can get fairly pricey. Also, I'm not sure what actual height is achieved wit the RC lift, which may matter. When thinking price, people on the forum have referred to a guy who can get them 10% off RC stuff. That may be a huge motivator. If you search the forum for lifts, you'll find the name and operation he is affiliated with for the deal.
s
s
#55
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L
#57
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s
#60
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO"
Yeah it gets tricky because some placed offer free shipping, which is a huge incentive, but these placed don't give free shocks. So, the question is which one makes for the best deal. If you get the it with free shipping, you'll have to buy shocks, but that means you can upgrade them as much as you'd like. Either way, it is a pretty big factor to consider when buying lifts.
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