Rotella: The world's first ever combined hair oil, foot ointment, and salad dressing
12-01-2017, 11:14 AM
#766
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
I use Lucas Diff Oil and their DOT 4 brake fluid in my MJ. I also used their assembly lube and break in oil during the assembly. Never had an issue.
As for engine oil, it is an Industrial engine so I do use diesel oil in it. The additives in the Rotella just keep it cleaner and it shows during the last two oil changes.
As for engine oil, it is an Industrial engine so I do use diesel oil in it. The additives in the Rotella just keep it cleaner and it shows during the last two oil changes.
12-01-2017, 06:54 PM
#767
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: central IN
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
im curious: what makes an industrial engine different? main/rod bearing specs, bearing material...? ive only dealt with 300” inline 6 cyl ford motors and 4bt cummins - they were the same internally as a road engine.
12-01-2017, 07:22 PM
#768
CF Veteran
Simpy put, results. PLUS, the LOS has a MUCH higher viscosity that your motor oil. So you're changing the viscosity and deluding the beneficial additives that the oil company puts in your oil to begin with through their manufacturing process.
https://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr....193814/page-2
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...gerous_is_Luca
So really, you may in fact be causing your motor to strain by adding a thick additive like that. Why not just do your homework on the best oil for your motor (which is sounds like you just did a lot of that in this thread) and just run good oil instead of wasting money on 3rd party additives. Not trying to be rude or anything man, just trying to get the point across that the right oil doesn't need anything added to it. Kinda like the slapping A1 on Filet Mignon... if it's cooked right, it doesn't need ANYTHING.
ETA: Again, I'm not knocking Lucas products as a whole... I like the Transmission stop leak and the Power Steering fluid... I just think that ANY oil additive (other than the occasional Marvel Mystery Oil treatment) is a waste of pocket change.
https://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr....193814/page-2
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...gerous_is_Luca
So really, you may in fact be causing your motor to strain by adding a thick additive like that. Why not just do your homework on the best oil for your motor (which is sounds like you just did a lot of that in this thread) and just run good oil instead of wasting money on 3rd party additives. Not trying to be rude or anything man, just trying to get the point across that the right oil doesn't need anything added to it. Kinda like the slapping A1 on Filet Mignon... if it's cooked right, it doesn't need ANYTHING.
ETA: Again, I'm not knocking Lucas products as a whole... I like the Transmission stop leak and the Power Steering fluid... I just think that ANY oil additive (other than the occasional Marvel Mystery Oil treatment) is a waste of pocket change.
I am one that has always closely monitored how my vehicles run and maintain them the way they're supposed to be and they usually end up lasting me longer than other people last with the same models.
The one "additive" from Lucas that I do use on occasion and because I always calculate my mileage, etc. religiously, their injector cleaner does make a difference. I run some through every so many full tank fill ups. Some may call "BS" but when I see actual results consistently that proves it for me.
If anyone knows of a cleaner that does a better job, I'd certainly be willing to give it a go.
I do agree with the rest of the vast majority of products out there being pure snake oil. As they either do nothing they claim to do... or worse yet, do exactly what they claim to do which is to temporarily mask a real issue.... and does more harm than good in the long run.
12-01-2017, 08:11 PM
#769
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lantana, Fl
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Usually it's stuff like 4 bolt mains instead of two, larger rods, higher compression, designed to run a certain RPM continuously. That's all depending on the engine maker or application, that's all. Mine, was built to handle constant higher RPMs compared to a regular 4cyl.
Last edited by Outlaw Star; 12-01-2017 at 08:14 PM.
12-02-2017, 05:37 PM
#771
CF Veteran
^^^
After reading the OP's initial start to this nice thread.... I think that's what I'm going to start using in my Jeep too. Solid protection for the older design I6's. And I plan on having mine around for a good while so want to treat her right.
After reading the OP's initial start to this nice thread.... I think that's what I'm going to start using in my Jeep too. Solid protection for the older design I6's. And I plan on having mine around for a good while so want to treat her right.
12-03-2017, 07:01 AM
#772
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Usually it's stuff like 4 bolt mains instead of two, larger rods, higher compression, designed to run a certain RPM continuously. That's all depending on the engine maker or application, that's all. Mine, was built to handle constant higher RPMs compared to a regular 4cyl.
I used to work on Volvo garbage trucks that had industrial stationary engines instead of normal road designed application diesels. Man... Couldn't kill these, they were one of the most reliable little engines I have worked on yet as a diesel mechanic. The only difference? Just slightly slower acceleration but the huge difference in strength and reliability by far outweighed that small detail.
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 12-03-2017 at 07:04 AM.
12-04-2017, 03:54 PM
#773
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Rocky Mtn's
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0
Have any of you tried the amsoil z-rod oil specifically engineered for flat-tappet camshafts. I have used amsoil synthetic which I really like but haven't tried the z-rod oil. Thinking about trying it at my next oil change.
12-04-2017, 05:40 PM
#775
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
That is very well explained... One thing that should also be pointed out is not just Constant RPM's, But consistent load. This is also the difference between marine applications and auto applications. In a marine, industrial or stationary application they are designed with constant load in mind. There are no hills to coast down or level ground to give it break from load. They are under full load start to stop.
I used to work on Volvo garbage trucks that had industrial stationary engines instead of normal road designed application diesels. Man... Couldn't kill these, they were one of the most reliable little engines I have worked on yet as a diesel mechanic. The only difference? Just slightly slower acceleration but the huge difference in strength and reliability by far outweighed that small detail.
I used to work on Volvo garbage trucks that had industrial stationary engines instead of normal road designed application diesels. Man... Couldn't kill these, they were one of the most reliable little engines I have worked on yet as a diesel mechanic. The only difference? Just slightly slower acceleration but the huge difference in strength and reliability by far outweighed that small detail.
12-05-2017, 06:00 AM
#776
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This is my RPMs on the 3.0L at 75mph. (4.10 gears and NO OD) My red line is 7k on this engine. At 3K+, it pulls like a freight train. Problem is, it stops like one too and takes a little more to slow the engine down with it's crankshaft (think of it like a weighted flywheel or inertia ring.) How long do you think a 4.0L will last at this high of constant RPMS?
12-05-2017, 08:18 PM
#778
No, I don't lick fish.
I too don't put a lot of faith into products like that unless they can back up their statements with actual proof.
I am one that has always closely monitored how my vehicles run and maintain them the way they're supposed to be and they usually end up lasting me longer than other people last with the same models.
The one "additive" from Lucas that I do use on occasion and because I always calculate my mileage, etc. religiously, their injector cleaner does make a difference. I run some through every so many full tank fill ups. Some may call "BS" but when I see actual results consistently that proves it for me.
If anyone knows of a cleaner that does a better job, I'd certainly be willing to give it a go.
I do agree with the rest of the vast majority of products out there being pure snake oil. As they either do nothing they claim to do... or worse yet, do exactly what they claim to do which is to temporarily mask a real issue.... and does more harm than good in the long run.
I am one that has always closely monitored how my vehicles run and maintain them the way they're supposed to be and they usually end up lasting me longer than other people last with the same models.
The one "additive" from Lucas that I do use on occasion and because I always calculate my mileage, etc. religiously, their injector cleaner does make a difference. I run some through every so many full tank fill ups. Some may call "BS" but when I see actual results consistently that proves it for me.
If anyone knows of a cleaner that does a better job, I'd certainly be willing to give it a go.
I do agree with the rest of the vast majority of products out there being pure snake oil. As they either do nothing they claim to do... or worse yet, do exactly what they claim to do which is to temporarily mask a real issue.... and does more harm than good in the long run.
In-tank fuel injector cleaners, power steering stop leak formulas, transmission stop leak additives - I have no problem with any of these when they're from a reputable company like Lucas that actually DOES do what they claim.
^^This
