Replacing XJ radiator requires which quick disconnect tools??
#1
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Year: 1998
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Replacing XJ radiator requires which quick disconnect tools??
I've already done some research on this when I first got my XJ, and decided it was beyond my skill level and tools.
I am going to start researching again how to replace the XJ radiator. I plan to do the job in the Spring. I also hope to back flush the coolant at that time. This will give me a few months to read all the write-ups and get all the extra tools I need.
I know this project has a few big gotchas. I think the tranny cooler lines are a nightmare. I've read people hacksawing the entire thing apart, and welding it back together.
I've read you need some quick disconnect tools, so I am starting with that.
Which one of these do you need for an XJ radiator job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...ool-97576.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-38732.html
I am going to start researching again how to replace the XJ radiator. I plan to do the job in the Spring. I also hope to back flush the coolant at that time. This will give me a few months to read all the write-ups and get all the extra tools I need.
I know this project has a few big gotchas. I think the tranny cooler lines are a nightmare. I've read people hacksawing the entire thing apart, and welding it back together.
I've read you need some quick disconnect tools, so I am starting with that.
Which one of these do you need for an XJ radiator job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...ool-97576.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-38732.html
#2
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Either one will work.. its not a big deal, use the tool and work them loose. Use WD40, twist them alot, then pop the tool in and pull it out.
Or just unscrew the lower trans coolant line from the radiator itself and screw it back in the new radiator... you might not even need to disconnect the line.
Or just unscrew the lower trans coolant line from the radiator itself and screw it back in the new radiator... you might not even need to disconnect the line.
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Not to rain on your radiator replacement parade but that Quick Disconnect was a PITA for me. I chose this route.
This was after replacing the plastic clip and o-rings. Nothing available looked anything like what I took off. And
the aftermarket stuff leaked immediately. The compression solution I installed has not leaked one drop.
This was after replacing the plastic clip and o-rings. Nothing available looked anything like what I took off. And
the aftermarket stuff leaked immediately. The compression solution I installed has not leaked one drop.
Last edited by GAPANDA; 12-28-2013 at 10:05 PM.
#6
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Go to the parts store and buy the AC quick disconnect plastic tool sets. They're under 10 bucks and get the job done.
This is what they look like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251373428987?lpid=82
This is what they look like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251373428987?lpid=82
#7
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Not to rain on your radiator replacement parade but that Quick Disconnect was a PITA for me. I chose this route.
This was after replacing the plastic clip and o-rings. Nothing available looked anything like what I took off. And
the aftermarket stuff leaked immediately. The compression solution I installed has not leaked one drop.
This was after replacing the plastic clip and o-rings. Nothing available looked anything like what I took off. And
the aftermarket stuff leaked immediately. The compression solution I installed has not leaked one drop.
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#8
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#9
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Get the metal ones. Ive used both, they both will work, just the plastic ones can be more hassle than its worth. I would really just recommend what was shown before, ive never removed trans cooler lines and used the factory disconnect over. Every time i cut it, then used a barb fitting and a hose clamp. Easier to deal with, probably wont leak, just makes more sense
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Get the metal ones. I've got both and the plastic ones were to flimsy.
I just replaced my radiator Friday for the second time in I think 2 1/2 years. The hardest part is getting that darn hose off of the barb fitting on the radiator.
Mine pulled off very hard each time. As mentioned above, wd40 and some twisting of the hose and you should be good to go.
I just replaced my radiator Friday for the second time in I think 2 1/2 years. The hardest part is getting that darn hose off of the barb fitting on the radiator.
Mine pulled off very hard each time. As mentioned above, wd40 and some twisting of the hose and you should be good to go.
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OK... the REALLY easiest and cheapest way to get the thing off is, as said before, lots of WD-40 AND
a good zip tie.
That is it, really. That way you can clip the extra off the zip tie, grab the thing and pull the CRAP out of it. It SHOULD then come off. Try to pay attention to how it all comes off. This is the most complete aftermarket solution if you don't go the route I went.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=800-750
Good Luck
a good zip tie.
That is it, really. That way you can clip the extra off the zip tie, grab the thing and pull the CRAP out of it. It SHOULD then come off. Try to pay attention to how it all comes off. This is the most complete aftermarket solution if you don't go the route I went.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=800-750
Good Luck
#12
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I have never worked with this fitting before.
What exactly is the idea here?
You are supposed to jam the blue zip tie INTO the bell shaped part?
How will it fit in there /c the little zip tie "box" part will be blocked.
It works as long as you have 330 degrees of the zip tie pressed in there?
What exactly is the idea here?
You are supposed to jam the blue zip tie INTO the bell shaped part?
How will it fit in there /c the little zip tie "box" part will be blocked.
It works as long as you have 330 degrees of the zip tie pressed in there?
#13
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When I did my radiator, I just undid the fitting at the radiator side, and screwed it into the new radiator. It was simple, and I didn't replace anything else and didn't need any special tools for it.
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On some radiators, that barb is a part of the radiator and not replaceable, like on CSF radiators (all metal design). On the factory ones and cheap parts store ones then yes, this will work. (plastic tank design)
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The idea with the zip tie solution is to squeeze the plastic fingers of the quick disconnect lock device (the tools describe earlier slip under the locks) preventing them from grabbing the lock ring on the metal tube. Once you get the hose off the radiator's metal tube you will simple use side cutter and clip the zip tie.