Dcoy

hey there, after i long process i have relized my computer in my 2000 cherokee needs replaced...... no problem.... but I need to know what all years will work in mine and if the letters after the part # mean anything. I know that I have to get the same part # ( P56041) but are the last few digits important. When I called a junk yard today he asked what letters where after the part # that this was very important, but the one I tried in it to trouble shoot the problem was from a 2001 with the same part # but different letters. ( mine is AF the other was AD ) I also seen on line that the years 1996 to 2000 are the same..... Is this true?

Basicly what ecm/ecu will work in my 2000 XJ

Radi

Here's the list:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...FlashAvail.pdf


I'm 99.9% sure that only an 00 will work in an 00, and they need to match in terms of options at that.

Dcoy

Thanks

Dcoy

anyone else have any input?

Radi

It's a tough question. The PCM's don't go bad all that often thus there isn't a lot of data out there on swapping them, particularly on the later XJ's. The earlier units were mostly the same, but 99-00-01 saw changes each year. The Chrysler guys say they need to be re-flashed (by the dealership of course), but I've read they've been successfully swapped without having that done.
Best advice I have is to stay with the same year, find a donor that matches the options on yours as closely as possible, and make sure they will take returns if it won't work.

KJamesJR

Here's what you do...

Call the a Jeep dealer.

Ask them your looking for a PCM on a 2000 Jeep Cherokee.

Tell them "Yes it's a Cherokee, not a Grand".

When they say they can get one for you, ask for the part number.

Write it down.

Then hang up.

You may or may not need to get it flashed. I would.

Or look on your current PCM... You may see some bar codes with a P/N number.

Hint: Look for something along the lines of P56041

Dcoy

I found one at a local junk yard that had the exact part #, letters and all, put it right in and she runs great. Only time will tell if this was my problem in the first place.........thanks for your 2 cents.

Radi

Awesome! That answers the "has to be flashed" question too.

Dcoy

Well guys yes the computer worked but it didnt fix my problem. It ran great for 2 days then my "issue" came back.

Radi

Well that stinks. What was the original issue?

Kalali

Sorry to hear that. I have come to the conclusion that single cylinder misfires are extremely difficult to diagnose. I've also been struggling with trying to fix a P0304 and yet to succeed. Theoretically single cyl misfires can (only) be caused by 1) ignition - plug, coil or 2) injector - faulty unit, poor seal, or 3) low compression. I have checked all of these. My symptoms are different from yours though. I have a very minor miss that can only be seen/heard from the tail pipe.
If you don't mind me asking how much was the used PCM?
Good luck and keep us posted.

Dcoy

I have another post on here called " p0304 with odd results" but when my jeep is cold, say in the morning before work or after work about a mile into my drive my engine light starts flashing ( it shows a p0304 code, cylinder 4 misfire ) and my jeep starts sputtering and missing and will not rev pass 3k, just revs up to 3k then jumps down to 2k and back to 3k and so on and so on unless i let up on the gas. Crazy thing is that if I pull over and turn it off and start it right back up it runs just fine. I have replaced the plugs ( copper core ) the cam sensor, crank sensor, TPS, coil rail, computer, swapped the injectors around, did a compression test with all good results ( all between 145 and 155 psi ) and a fuel pressure test and all good. I pulled loom off wires and looked for bad wires/grounds and cant find anything. Any ideas?

Dcoy

I picked one up at a local junk yard with the identical part# ( p056041 635AF ) I know it off by heart now but it was $75, i called a dealer and they want $540.

Kalali

Thanks.

bryweb

I looked at the linked PDF, found a listing for my 2000 XJ Computer, I figure any in that group would work, but the best option would be the replacement one listed in the next row.

It was running like crap, it was like hitting a rev limiter at 3000 RPM's, then it quit in the driveway, would not start, I have "NO BUS" and my Gauges are not working, unplugged TPS, CPS, CKS and still no gauges, so I pulled the computer and it had like a brown ooze all over where the (3) big plugs plug-in. Have a feeling my computer took a dump