Replacing stock suspension. Question/Help
#1
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Year: 2001
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Replacing stock suspension. Question/Help
Hey everyone.
Let me state that I am a relatively inexperienced with the XJ. I'm a simple backyard mechanic and try to do all my own work. Its a 2001 sport and I am the second owner. Its been well maintained as far as the engine goes but the suspension has been neglected. I intend on using the car for daily commute to work and a few trips a year to go camping and snowboarding in VT/ME. (I'm in western CT) Ride comfort is important but being able to get around some trails and the heavy snow is also high on my priority list. I already know what tires I want but being new to this jeep world i wanted to get some opinions about suspension.
After reading on here about sagging leaf springs i went and measured mine. not only is the distance from wheel center to fender only 16 inches but the leaves themselves are as straight as an arrow and the shocks are also totally blown out.
Im on a tight budget due to my wedding that i'm paying for this fall but I don't want to buy replacement parts that will only last a few months.
where/what brand makes the best bang for the buck stock replacement items. or is it more beneficial to go for a all in one lift and I don't feel that an add a leaf kit will benefit me due to the springs being so dead.
much thanks in advance for any and all advice that comes this way..
Let me state that I am a relatively inexperienced with the XJ. I'm a simple backyard mechanic and try to do all my own work. Its a 2001 sport and I am the second owner. Its been well maintained as far as the engine goes but the suspension has been neglected. I intend on using the car for daily commute to work and a few trips a year to go camping and snowboarding in VT/ME. (I'm in western CT) Ride comfort is important but being able to get around some trails and the heavy snow is also high on my priority list. I already know what tires I want but being new to this jeep world i wanted to get some opinions about suspension.
After reading on here about sagging leaf springs i went and measured mine. not only is the distance from wheel center to fender only 16 inches but the leaves themselves are as straight as an arrow and the shocks are also totally blown out.
Im on a tight budget due to my wedding that i'm paying for this fall but I don't want to buy replacement parts that will only last a few months.
where/what brand makes the best bang for the buck stock replacement items. or is it more beneficial to go for a all in one lift and I don't feel that an add a leaf kit will benefit me due to the springs being so dead.
much thanks in advance for any and all advice that comes this way..
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A lot of people go with the Dorman 929301 leaf because they are a good price and the bushing come installed.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...af+spring,7544
I used them and they brought my rear up about an inch and a half.
I also went with the JKS ACOS adjustable system and has worked out well for me.
Do some research before you get into those leafs, they can be a bear at times. The bushings seize around the bolts and have to be heated or cut on the rear. Or the bolt will break loose inside of the unibody and spin on the front. Quite a bit of info out there on how to get it done.
You can get it done just plan for it to take longer than if everything broke loose like it is supposed to.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...af+spring,7544
I used them and they brought my rear up about an inch and a half.
I also went with the JKS ACOS adjustable system and has worked out well for me.
Do some research before you get into those leafs, they can be a bear at times. The bushings seize around the bolts and have to be heated or cut on the rear. Or the bolt will break loose inside of the unibody and spin on the front. Quite a bit of info out there on how to get it done.
You can get it done just plan for it to take longer than if everything broke loose like it is supposed to.
Last edited by jhc7399; 03-08-2017 at 08:18 AM.
#3
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
A lot of people go with the Dorman 929301 leaf because they are a good price and the bushing come installed.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...af+spring,7544
I used them and they brought my rear up about an inch and a half.
I also went with the JKS ACOS adjustable system and has worked out well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/JKS-2200-Adju.../dp/B005TTZ7L4
Do some research before you get into those leafs, they can be a bear at times. The bushings seize around the bolts and have to be heated or cut on the rear. Or the bolt will break loose inside of the unibody and spin on the front. Quite a bit of info out there on how to get it done.
You can get it done just plan for it to take longer than if everything broke loose like it is supposed to.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...af+spring,7544
I used them and they brought my rear up about an inch and a half.
I also went with the JKS ACOS adjustable system and has worked out well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/JKS-2200-Adju.../dp/B005TTZ7L4
Do some research before you get into those leafs, they can be a bear at times. The bushings seize around the bolts and have to be heated or cut on the rear. Or the bolt will break loose inside of the unibody and spin on the front. Quite a bit of info out there on how to get it done.
You can get it done just plan for it to take longer than if everything broke loose like it is supposed to.
#5
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Year: 1997
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When replacing rear shocks, the upper bolts usually break. There are videos on Youtube for a cheap fix, or you can buy a flagnut kit from Rough Country (part #1082), which is what i used. Either way, you will have to knock the old bolts and welded nut out with a hammer and punch, or an air hammer. Air hammer is way quicker. Wear safety goggles.
The front shocks arent quite as bad, unless the nuts up top are fused solid. I had to Dremel both sides. I tightened the new nuts until the rubber was about the same diameter as the washers. I went with KYB GR2, but have not driven it yet aside from turning it around in the driveway for some welding.
Also, dont overlook the front or rear bumpstops as they keep the suspension from bottoming out, which can result in blown shocks. My 97 Sport has no lift so i went with Crown #52004295 for the front, and #52004297 for the rear. They are factory equivalents.
The front shocks arent quite as bad, unless the nuts up top are fused solid. I had to Dremel both sides. I tightened the new nuts until the rubber was about the same diameter as the washers. I went with KYB GR2, but have not driven it yet aside from turning it around in the driveway for some welding.
Also, dont overlook the front or rear bumpstops as they keep the suspension from bottoming out, which can result in blown shocks. My 97 Sport has no lift so i went with Crown #52004295 for the front, and #52004297 for the rear. They are factory equivalents.
#6
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When replacing rear shocks, the upper bolts usually break. There are videos on Youtube for a cheap fix, or you can buy a flagnut kit from Rough Country (part #1082), which is what i used. Either way, you will have to knock the old bolts and welded nut out with a hammer and punch, or an air hammer. Air hammer is way quicker. Wear safety goggles.
The front shocks arent quite as bad, unless the nuts up top are fused solid. I had to Dremel both sides. I tightened the new nuts until the rubber was about the same diameter as the washers. I went with KYB GR2, but have not driven it yet aside from turning it around in the driveway for some welding.
Also, dont overlook the front or rear bumpstops as they keep the suspension from bottoming out, which can result in blown shocks. My 97 Sport has no lift so i went with Crown #52004295 for the front, and #52004297 for the rear. They are factory equivalents.
The front shocks arent quite as bad, unless the nuts up top are fused solid. I had to Dremel both sides. I tightened the new nuts until the rubber was about the same diameter as the washers. I went with KYB GR2, but have not driven it yet aside from turning it around in the driveway for some welding.
Also, dont overlook the front or rear bumpstops as they keep the suspension from bottoming out, which can result in blown shocks. My 97 Sport has no lift so i went with Crown #52004295 for the front, and #52004297 for the rear. They are factory equivalents.
#7
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I was re reading the info in this thread, which btw is great thanks, and I noticed that I totally forgot to mention that Im looking to install 31" tires and I know that requires some small lift. I dont know if this new aspect changes the information that you guys have already provided but any other help or advice would be great.
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#8
No, I don't lick fish.
I was re reading the info in this thread, which btw is great thanks, and I noticed that I totally forgot to mention that Im looking to install 31" tires and I know that requires some small lift. I dont know if this new aspect changes the information that you guys have already provided but any other help or advice would be great.
a) ditch your flares and trim up to the lip
b) keep you flares, don't trim, and lift it 3" - which requires more than just shocks and springs.
If you decide to just trim, you'll need to get wheels with some more backspacing than the OEMs. They will rub the LCAs and swaybar ends if you don't. Between 4 and 3.5" backspacing on an 8" wide wheel is best. Make sure you extend your bumpstops if you're going offroad though or your tires will bash your fenders and your fenders will put cuts in your tread.
Here's some pics for reference..
31x10.5r15 on 15x8 TJ Canyons w/ trimming and no lift.
Click for full res
Click for full res
The tires tuck into the fenderwells okay, but they rub the LCAs and swaybar ends... also the pinch seam up front if you don't knock it flat.
Same tires and suspension with 15x8 Cragar D-windows and 4" backspacing
Click for full res
Click for full res
Rubs the fenders pretty bad, but doesn't rub the LCAs and whatnot
Same wheels, tires, and trimming but on 3.5" lift....
Click for full res
... and 32" tires w/ extended front bumpstops
Click for full res
That help you any?
#9
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That does help alot,
Although I just want to be sure that I got the right info. If planning on getting 31 tires, can I just do a Budget boost? Ive read around that some guys get away with it. A 3" lift is kind of out of my budget(from the pricing I have found)
Although I just want to be sure that I got the right info. If planning on getting 31 tires, can I just do a Budget boost? Ive read around that some guys get away with it. A 3" lift is kind of out of my budget(from the pricing I have found)
#10
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If you are going to replace the rear leafs, and you really want to go to 3 inches, just buy new leafs that are going to get you to 3 inches. I do not see the sense in buying upcountry leafs with shackles to get to 3 inches. This is just my opinion. I have no idea what your budget is, but morris 4x4 has the zone 3" lift for $530? shipped. Does not have a track bar but you can relocate the OEM until you can get a new one. You can also see how much leafs only are from Rusty's or other companies, get JK wrangler shocks, and coil spacers for the front. There are just too many combinations to list without knowing your budget.
#11
No, I don't lick fish.
A set of leaf springs from a junkyard S10, Dakota, or Durango will give about 3" and the shackle from a dakota will give about 1.5" more.
For your coil springs, you could find a pair from a v8 ZJ and then get a set of cheap coil spacers or even better the ACOS adjustable spacers.
A set of JK Rubicon shocks will be good for that amount of lift w/ some bar pin eliminators thrown in with 'em.
Here's a thread w/ ideas on building up your Jeep on the cheap:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/
For your coil springs, you could find a pair from a v8 ZJ and then get a set of cheap coil spacers or even better the ACOS adjustable spacers.
A set of JK Rubicon shocks will be good for that amount of lift w/ some bar pin eliminators thrown in with 'em.
Here's a thread w/ ideas on building up your Jeep on the cheap:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/
#12
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
A set of leaf springs from a junkyard S10, Dakota, or Durango will give about 3" and the shackle from a dakota will give about 1.5" more.
For your coil springs, you could find a pair from a v8 ZJ and then get a set of cheap coil spacers or even better the ACOS adjustable spacers.
A set of JK Rubicon shocks will be good for that amount of lift w/ some bar pin eliminators thrown in with 'em.
Here's a thread w/ ideas on building up your Jeep on the cheap:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/
For your coil springs, you could find a pair from a v8 ZJ and then get a set of cheap coil spacers or even better the ACOS adjustable spacers.
A set of JK Rubicon shocks will be good for that amount of lift w/ some bar pin eliminators thrown in with 'em.
Here's a thread w/ ideas on building up your Jeep on the cheap:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/
I appreciate the info, and if this were my project car I would probably go the salvage yard route, also I dont know of any good salvage yards here in CT. However the fiance would rather see me buy new items, and ZERO trimming lol.
After reading all this would it be outrageous for me to simply buy OEM spec replacement parts but instead use the dorman leaves and a spacer up front to get the needed 2" lift for the 31s to fit? If not then perhaps I need to reconsider the 31s.
I thought I could get even stock leaves and just at the 2" shackle and appropriate spacer up front to get the 2"s?
Again if Im totally wrong let me know.
Last edited by Dlm01XJ; 03-09-2017 at 02:22 PM.
#14
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Ive priced out the items individually and they are way cheaper than the cheapest full leaf spring 3" kit unless theres one I dont know about. Im not apposed to a full kit but I havent found them for less than 550. Again I may be looking in the wrong spot.
Do the 2" shackles and dorman + spacer up front work?
Do the 2" shackles and dorman + spacer up front work?
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ive priced out the items individually and they are way cheaper than the cheapest full leaf spring 3" kit unless theres one I dont know about. Im not apposed to a full kit but I havent found them for less than 550. Again I may be looking in the wrong spot.
Do the 2" shackles and dorman + spacer up front work?
Do the 2" shackles and dorman + spacer up front work?