lostbuckaroo

I was getting ready to change the oil on my 98' and I noticed that the front part of the oil pan gasket appears to be pushing out... not sure if these gaskets are two piece gaskets with "rubber type" end pieces or??? .. either way it looks like its pushing out and it's definitely leaking right behind the balancer, also leaking around one of the bolts. My question is: How hard is it to replace the oil pan gasket... I've read that some gasket brands are better than others??? I've also read that one should replace the rear main seal while the oil pan is dropped... ???

How hard is it to do both? What do you guys recommend... here's a picture of what I'm talking about... kinda hard to see.. so I put a red circle.. Your help is appreciated guys!

ZINGGG

Looks like a glob of RTV to me.

Yes there are better gasket brands (Felpro is the way to go). Yes you should do the rear main at the same time.

Is your XJ lifted? Or stock height? The hardest part would be to get the oil pan off if you're at stock height.

Lemme find you a write up for the pan gasket/RMS

lostbuckaroo

Thanks!! It's stock height.. no lift... I read that if I lifted/supported it by the frame and let the suspension droop out there would be clearance... would that be correct?

ZINGGG

Yes that would be correct. You may also need to remove the starter. You'll know once you start going at it.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/feature/r...-installation/

lostbuckaroo

Cool thank you!!

Khyren

I've had the pan down on both XJ's here. I jacked them up until the height was good enough to work on. Took the front tires off and let the front axle drop all the way down. Turn the wheel all the way to the left to allow more room for the pan. Yes, the starter does have to come out so make sure you disconnect the battery. It will take some finesse but the pan does come out even if you have stock suspension. Disconnecting the sway bar might give you more travel on the front axle if you need it.

DFlintstone

Just a note. I haven't done a 4.0, but saw in the book mention of unbolting the oil pump after getting the pan loose. Idk though...(then remove both)

...Me, if it was just that one pan bolt leaking, and the timing cover seal, (where the crank pulley goes through), I might just change the seal, pull that bolt and put it back with some RTV or something. OK, I admit, I can be lazy.

On some, when that seal is leaking, the back of the pulley will be oily. My Rear main is hanging in there with 300K just around the corner.

BotakBeng

Replacing the oil pan gasket is more of a dirty job rather than a difficult one.

This is how i did mine.
• Disconnect Negative (-) battery cable
• Jack up Jeep and support with jack stand by the frame
• Drain oil
• Remove starter * (torque front bolt 30ft.lb/rear 35ft.lb)
• Loosen oil pan bolts*
• Support oil pan with floor jack
• Remove oil pan bolts
• To get oil pan out - lower the back half of the oil pan and pull in out under the transmission with the front axle jack up (this will allow the axle to move forward) • Remove bearing cap retainer (10x bolts)
• Remove rear bearing cap (2x bolts)
• Loosen ALL bearing caps (this will help with the removal of upper RMS)
• Remove upper seal with pin punch and nose head pilers
• Remove upper RMS
• Remove front and rear neoprene oil seals
• Soap new upper RMS and inside with oil
• Inspect front seal
• Inspect timing chain
• Coat outside of the lower RMS with soap and the inside lip with engine oil
• Press lower RMS firmly into lower bearing cap
• Lip of RMS must face to the front of the engine (with the sloped side toward the rear)
• RTV lower seal tip (top and bottom)
• Lube inside of lower seal and bearing surface
• RTV rear bearing block and cap surface, about 2.3mm bead in diameter (fsm page 111, fig 70)
• Lower bearing torque spec
**** 54Nm (40ft.lbs) first
**** 95Nm (70ft.lbs) then
**** 108Nm (80ft.lbs) final
• Install bearing brace **** 47Nm (35ft.lbs)
• RTV oil pan to block 4 corners* (fsm page 108, fig 74)
• Oil pan bolts torque **** 1/4 bolts- 9.5Nm (84in.lbs)
• **** 5/16 bolts - 15Nm (132in.lbs)
• Replace oil filter
• Wait 8 hr for sealant to cure!!!

Is also a good time to check and tighten the flexplate bolts since the inspection plate has been removed.

Here is a couple of video for your reference....

bigvig

Lost Buckaroo, my '99 has the SAME EXACT BULGE in the gasket as yours, but much worse. Leaks like a sieve. Ive read all kinds of how-to's regarding changing the pan and also the rear main, etc., but honestly, if the rear main isnt leaking, DONT CHANGE IT! It can leak worse even with a new one. My buddy did this a couple years ago and his rear main was slightly weeping. He changed it and it was a full-on leak.

Also, my local garage quoted me $160 to do this as I already have the nice 1-piece gasket. Im thinking for a job this long, dirty and dangerous (really, who wants to be laying under a jacked up Jeep?) the $160 my local garage wants is going to be money well spent.

lostbuckaroo

Good point thanks for your help.. I've gotta replace my steering box... so I'm gonna be under it anyway.. I'm pretty sure the rear main isn't leaking... with my luck I'd be better off not to mess with it. But I am going to replace the oil pan gasket.

nikooters

​​​​​​Great writeup! going to be using it to change out my lil' monster's oil pan gasket next weekend. As a quick site note, before anyone decides to add RTV to the gasket as well, please don't, you'll destroy the work you've done.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/06/10-common-gasket-maker-mistakes/

papablista

This is the gasket you need $16.19 @ rockauto you may find it cheaper just make sure it is fel-pro 1 piece they come with nifty little plastic threaded pieces that hold the gasket in place while you bolt it up.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...315943&jsn=444

CRLAMBERTJR

Don't take the whole oil pump out ! Just remove it's longest bolt, towards the rear, THEN, simply rotate the pickup tube out of the way w/o removing it. Don't take the track bar loose, until a last resort ! They're not pleasant to get lined back up and you will more than likely need a ratchet strap to pull it in place.You will need to remove the starter. I took nothing else loose to remove mine with no lift, on the ground. I did remove the drag link end of the steering stabilizer to simply the install. Use black RTV on both sides of the front corners where it drops around the balancer.

papablista

I would drop the oil pump in the pan, then inspect it (and clean the strainer screen they tend to gunk up)while you have it out, mine had 166k miles on it and there were grooves worn inside into the cover plate. $50 for a pump (use your old pickup tube) is cheap insurance . I also changed the rear main seal if you take your time and follow instructions it is a simple task.

ixanay_on-the_exjay

I'm no expert but I've never seen this advice given anywhere. Why would it start leaking just because the seal has been preemptively replaced? Couldn't your friends situation just have been a fluke or perhaps improperly installed? Genuinely curious if there is anything to this theory but I don't see the logic yet.