lkvee

When I tried the controls for the first time, all three switches did SOMETHING to the driver's seat. It just didn't do everything. For the outer switches, rocking one way activated the motors, while the other way didn't do anything. The center stick would move the seat forward but not backward.

Looked a little corroded inside. Rapped the switch assembly itself on the resin table and black powder came out. Tried to sweep it off with my hand and it just got worse. Dishwashing liquid cleaned up everything.

I took some fine-grit sandpaper to the pins on the underside. I'm planning to get rid of what I think is powdered graphite. Might explain the parasitic battery drain, too.

I was thinking of getting lighter fluid inside the switches, let it dry, and then get contact cleaner inside the mechanism. Am I on the right track?

I'm wondering what would happen if I were to invert the switch assembly when I replace it. I marked which was top, but solvents erased my markings. I marked it again but am not 100% if I marked the top side.

Thanks for reading!

JPXJMOAB

Don't use lighter fluid ... Use an electrical contact cleaner so it doesn't harm the contacts. Clean all the connections, if still nothing either check the fuses, check for continuity in the wiring or check if the switch is bad. A multi meter is your friend here.

lkvee

Will contact cleaner be aggressive enough to get rid of the powdered graphite? I fear it caused a short as well as the parasitic battery drain.

I'm also wondering if a run-of-the-mill service manual can identify which pins to test for continuity. While I surmise the pins on one side of the switch won't affect a switch on the other side, I'd still love to get a formal set of directions.

Thanks for the reply!

JPXJMOAB

contact cleaner will work. Only use that, otherwise you risk ruining the switch and connections