BimmerJeeper

Hanger rod is cracked, and exhaust is resting on the trans cross member.,
Makes a ratting sound, I think.

Does this bar normally point angled upwards?
If someone just welded it like it sits, it would still be resting on the trans cross member.,
Actually, I don't think this can be welded, even if you spun the rod upwards.
The hooked rod that remains can freely spin.
So, if it was reattached, the weight of the exhaust would just spin the rod, until the exhaust rested on the cross member.
That rusted bar should really be firmly stuck inside the rubber bushing, right?

Can a shop replace the bar and weld a new bar onto the exhaust?

BimmerJeeper

Another conceptual question.
The exhaust has several inches of play and can be pushed upwards.
How can the exhaust move, when it's bolted onto the engine?
How can there be flex in an exhaust system? I would think it needs to be rigid.
To move the pipe upwards, you would think the bolts would snap, or the pipe would kink.
Where if the play designed to come from ?

PatHenry

The exhaust system flexes because it's a long tube of relatively thin/light metal that is attached with rubber hangers.

You can push up on the exhaust because the middle hanger part is broken off. You absolutely could have a shop weld a new hanger part on. So long as it's through the rubber isolator on the transmission mount plate it will secure the exhaust at that location.

If you look behind the muffler (about where the rear seats are) you'll see a bracket with a rubber hanger (like a diamond shape) that is bracketed to the frame at the top and to another metal hook welded to the exhaust pipe on the bottom. At the very rear of the vehicle if you look up from underneath there is a small rubber piece that looks like an O with the end of the tail pipe welded to it at the bottom and a bolt in the middle of the O holding it to the frame.
(Of course, this is the 95, it may be slightly different for 97+ models, but the principle is the same.)

If all the hangers are in place, the exhaust is actually pretty tight on the vehicle.

This is not a tough call or big deal, if you're not replacing any of the components, have the shop weld a new hanger such that the pipe is slightly above the cross-member. It should take them under an hour and doesn't have to be perfectly exact.

If you're worried about it, ask them to check the manifold and make sure it's secure (the bolts do have a tendency to back off a bit, but if they did you'd know it because the Jeep would be loud) and that the other hanger pieces are sound.

BimmerJeeper

Right, but the connection to the exhaust manifold is fixed and rigid, right?
If so, then this much movement would not be so easy, since the metal is not THAT flimsy.
Something has to be moving between thiat broken hanger and the exhaust manifold.

The other hangers are intact.

Should they remove the old pipe and jam in a new one that sticks inside more firmly?


have the shop weld a new hanger such that the pipe is slightly above the cross-member.

I'm not sure what you mean by this.
Does the new pipe replace the current broken one?
You're saying the new pipe should be angled upwards?

PatHenry

When I say "pipe" I'm referring to the actual exhaust pipe, to refer to the piece stuck in the rubber I will say "hanger".

There's a doughnut type gasket at the manifold to front pipe connection.

The manifold may or may not have a flex pipe in it. Some replacements add flex pipes to prevent the cracking that is common to the OEM design.

I'm saying they should support the exhaust pipe (the actual one) so it is positioned slightly above the crossmember (where it is supposed to sit) and they can either re-attach the existing hanger or put a new one on. The hanger is kind of on the side of the pipe so it won't roll in the rubber bushing. Once it's on there the pipe won't move the way you're seeing it do so now.

BimmerJeeper

Right, right, once it's attached, the hanger will not be able to rotate
since it would also have to move laterally.

I also think the broken hanger has created a crack in the exhaust near the engine.
On start up & shut down, there is a definite exhaust sound, not just a rattling from the hanger cross member issue.

I will take it to a muffler shop.

Thanks for being patient and explaining stuff.

investinwaffles

I think your trans mount may be toast, the pipe shouldn't really touch the crossmember unless there is a giant crack.

EDIT:
Damn, not paying attention - I skipped over the part where you clearly stated that the exhaust hangar was cracked

PatHenry

Anytime brother!

Manifold cracks are a common issue on the I6, so that would make sense. Just to warn you, a shop manifold is going to be 200+ for the parts and 4 or so hours of labor.

Investinwaffles is absolutely right about the tranny mount. These are another common issue that you likely have.

If you're going to do the job the "right" way, you'll want to replace at least the manifold (assuming it's cracked.. maybe they can weld it), the motor mounts and the transmission mount. It's typical advice that you want the motor mounts in excellent condition so the manifold doesn't fail again.

I'm familiar with the exhaust since I replaced the whole thing from the manifold back. I did it myself and had never done it before. It wasn't too bad and I spent about $400 on parts and 2 days of time (spread out over a couple weeks)

BimmerJeeper

I had the mechanic verify the trans mount is fine

I just got the hanger welded by a local shop.
Rattling is gone, but there is an exhaust hole back near the muffler.

I will have the guy replace the muffler to tailpipe.

CRLAMBERTJR

Looks like you could use a new hanger ? Ebay !!!