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Is this a Renix Knock sensor

Hi,

I found a broken sensor on the lower end of the engine.
I understand it is a knock sensor.

After reading on the internet I still wonder what are the symptoms of a broken one
can someone explain ? It might solve one of my issues :party:

my question is : where to buy it ?

I don’t find such a reference at my usual dealer. (Rbs handel, in germany, excellent service)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...de5ea89d9.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3eabdcaea.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e4b066b20.jpeg
On the last picture I put the cover back on the broken sensor

thanks

Yes, it is. Won't cause the running issues you're having. Aftermarket replacements are available. New factory are not.

Can I run the car without it ? Any problem or is it just useful in case the engine knocks. And why would my engine knock ?

I saw the advice to jump the connector with a resistance.

replacements for a 87 don’t seem to be easy to find. Any recommandation ?

As I am in this area I’ll check the O2 sensor.

Btw, the blue stuff into the broken sensor is some kind of silicon. Maybe someone already tried to repair it.

I’ll look if There is a way to just do the same again. But how to test if it works properly and don’t mess with the computer ?

This is absolutely the least of your worries. I'm willing to bet there are a million REnix Jeeps around the world with broken off knock sensors.

Leave it alone for now and concentrate on the things you've been advised to do.

How many of my Tips have you completed?

I try to be a good padawan
but I still have a lot to do.

As a reminder, it runs well, but idles very low and thus lacks oil pressure.

So I want it to rev higher. At normal speed. It does when I disconnect the fuel pressure regulator hose (a little bit) and (a lot) when I disconnect the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the valve cover, through the gromet. It also revs at a good speed right after start-up, then lowers (open or closed loop something??)

My other issue is to calibrate the gauges in order to know If the engine overheats and if the oil pressure is really too low it is terrible not to know. :confused:
Btw, I dont have an oil pressure gauge nor an electronic IR thermometer.

what I did so far
- grounds
- c101 refreshing
- connectors refreshing
- tps
- throttle body
- iac
- egr valve test
- new vacuum harness (only the part connected to the engine)

on my list are
- instrument cluster ground
- power switch bypass
- all fluids

what is new
-distributor, spark plugs, cables
- oil pressure sender
- iac
- temp gauge sender
-

will be new
- fuel pump (too noisy)
- fan clutch (Turns easily even when hot)
- water pump (I go to spain in vacations, can’t overheat)

what I did so far
- grounds
- c101 refreshing
- connectors refreshing
- tps
- throttle body
- iac
- egr valve test
- new vacuum harness (only the part connected to the engine)

What about Tip 5? Super important.

TPS replace? Throttle body clean, right?

what is new
-distributor, spark plugs, cables
- oil pressure sender
- iac
- temp gauge sender

Complete distributor or distributor cap?

I did the distributor and its rotating finger.
i checked the ground of sensors (0.01)

then I wanted to double check my TPS.
Reading my multimeter I am not sure of the result.

Do I use the right scale ? Is it reading more than 1 (not good) or less (good)

Yes, I should know that...

So, distributor CAP and rotor. You did not replace the whole distributor assembly.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT

OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 99 COMMENTS

Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are a few things that need to be done.

Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It’s especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
With the KEY OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall.

If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. It is covered in detail in Tip 6.

TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES

Both Renix manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire “A” is positive. Wire “B” is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS!https://i1.wp.com/cruiser54.com/wp-c...size=300%2C169

KEY ON, measure voltage from “A” positive to “B” ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading–this is your REFERENCE voltage.
KEY ON, back-probe the connector at wires “B” and “C”. Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage.
Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts.
Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage.
Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can’t achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.

Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.

TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES

Renix automatic transmission-equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.

However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY.

First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS!

KEY ON, measure voltage between “A” positive and “D” ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage.
Back-probe the connector at wires “B” and “D”. Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage.
Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts.
Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can’t, replace the TPS and start over.

So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides–one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.

For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION–the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used.

Okay, so you're doing the ohms test. Wiggle the wires from the TPS to firewall. does that meter reading change?

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroJeep (Post 3564169)

Not at all

That's good.

So reading the multimeter, the sensor is ok ? :cheers:

I’ll replace next week the very noisy fuel pump and the fuel filter.
I did not replace the full distributor because it starts well (3 seconds) and runs well on the road.