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Old 06-14-2013, 07:35 PM
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Default Renix gods i summon thee asap

Ok i am doing my sensor gound test and i hav 2.3 ohms i found another god damned splice and this werid unsheilded wire comming from it pics wont load its a 5 pin rectangu8alr connector with tin foil type stuff around it and an unsheilded wire going into it what is it ? And what other causes are of this high resistance ? Ive cone c101 cleaning cleaned and tighted the dipstick ground new o2 sensor any help
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:16 PM
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Ever read this?

Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.

Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be  spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.

 

Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.

 

You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.

 

Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.

 

Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.
 I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.

 

 

Revised 03-09-12
Old 06-14-2013, 09:16 PM
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And, shielded is usually O2 sensor.
Old 06-14-2013, 10:06 PM
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Ok I read that that one was already "fixed" when I got the jeep. I was playing with connectors and there is a area in the passenger side between the coolant res and the battery where the relays are and all these connectors I disconnected them all and cleaned them. No change to the 2.3 ohms. But tere was one six pin flat connector that when unplugged ohms dropped to 1.1. But the jeep wouldn't start I could smell no fuels or anything just crank and crank I think it may be a connector for injectors? It dissappers down into the front area where the headlights are. I fixed two more splices. To no avail
Old 06-14-2013, 10:07 PM
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Did you do the sensor ground upgrade yet?
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:12 PM
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I don't recall seeing that. I have a **** ton of brown wires with stripes that are just cut. Well I have a lot of wires that are just cut
Old 06-15-2013, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by roundrbn
I have a 1996 grand cherokee when i shut the truck off the interior lights stay on they were showing a door ajar so i changed the drivers n passenger dor switches and the headlight switch on the dash and still the lights stay on i looked for a broken ground in both doors found nothing i was forced to pull the fuse any help would be appreciated oh the lights go off when i start. Truck
Holy Threadjack Batman!!!

I know you're new, and only posted 4 times now since 2011, but:

You're in the XJ forum, when you should be in the ZJ forum.

And, you jacked this thread bad. This thread has to do with a specific set of problems related to a specific era of Jeeps.

Moved to Grand Cherokee Tech.

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Old 06-15-2013, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris smith
I don't recall seeing that. I have a **** ton of brown wires with stripes that are just cut. Well I have a lot of wires that are just cut
Cut wires is usually not good.
Old 06-15-2013, 09:02 AM
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Ya I know it's not good. But I figured it runs ok with out them. I don't see anything missing I have no clue what there for or where there from I don't want to just solder them together
Old 06-15-2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris smith
Ya I know it's not good. But I figured it runs ok with out them. I don't see anything missing I have no clue what there for or where there from I don't want to just solder them together
Heck no!! Any progress on the connectors in the harness causing the high resistance in the sensor ground circuit? Cleaned the dipstick tube stud area already?
Old 06-15-2013, 06:38 PM
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I havent had time i worked all day im behind by 20 hours this pay period and today was the end. I cleaned the dipstick tube ground and relocated the battery ground to the alt bracket. The connector that i foun dthe flat 6 pin one drops my ohms to 1.1 ohms but with is dis connected it wont fire i think its for the injectors ? Im not sure i dont know when i will have time to look at it again im in the process of packing and moving
Old 06-15-2013, 06:49 PM
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Which 6 pin connector? Clean em all. Every one you see.
Old 06-15-2013, 10:09 PM
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I have cleaned them all its a flat 6 pin connector on the passenger fender well by all the relays has six colored wires and when disconnected the ohms drop and the jeep won't start ill take a pic in the morning for ya
Old 06-15-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris smith
I have cleaned them all its a flat 6 pin connector on the passenger fender well by all the relays has six colored wires and when disconnected the ohms drop and the jeep won't start ill take a pic in the morning for ya
Clean it real well and tweak the pins/receptacles so they grip tighter. See how your ohms reading is then.
Old 06-16-2013, 01:36 AM
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You ARE checking the ground resistance with the IGN off? (I hope).


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