SatiricalHen

Alright, repaired the brown and white wires, and a pink and black splice, but didn't know what to do with the black wire splices so left them for now. Still stumbles and poots

Edit: still idling high also, but that's not as much of a concern as the stumbling while cruising at the moment.

Also, replaced the alternator today with no change.

cruiser54

Cut those splices out and solder the connections.

SatiricalHen

I cut the brown wire splices out and soldered the 6 wires together. I cut the one pink going to 2 pink out and just fixed the joint. For the black wires just cut out the splice and fix the connection? Don't attach them to each other or anything?

cruiser54

Hey, if they're grounds, go ahead and make another connection to the body also.

SatiricalHen

I assume they're grounds. I've learned this thing has sat longer than I thought which probably doesn't help anything. I talked to the son of the PO and he said he cannot remember it ever running and he's 18. He said it definitely hadn't run for 13 years, but couldn't remember before that.

cruiser54

You can test them. Got a meter?

SatiricalHen

Yes I do, but testing will have to wait till lunch or after work tomorrow. Thank you for continuing to help with these issues!

cruiser54

Certainly.

SatiricalHen

Got back to fooling with it today. Those were indeed grounds so I fixed the splices and added a ground to body.

Tested the cps and it shows .6 AC volts

With the wiring fixed, tps adjusted properly, no vacuum leaks I can find ( I've plugged the vacuum stuff and tightened the manifold bolts), two different IAC, new and old alternator, new and old distributor, new and old throttle body, new and old tps, new and old ECT sensor, new and old o2 sensor, and any IAT I try. It always idled high and stumbles. Stumbling is fixed by unplugging the IAT with a huge hit to power. The idle will sit at 750 if I start the jeep then create a large vacuum leak (unplug the brake booster) then plug it back in. Swapped all the relays in the "relay center". Not sure where to look.

cruiser54

Is the EGR hanging open?

Good solid vacuum to the MAP/

SatiricalHen

No egr, has a 99 intake. Strong vacuum to the map when you test it with your finger, but i haven't put a gauge on it.

New problem. I was just cruising around today and it started misfiring very bad. I'm going to try pulling plugs and checking what I can. I got a noid light set to check the injector side of things, and I've already pulled the cap to see if there's anything unusual or broken. to me it looks like it's catching one edge of the posts, but I don't know enough about what they should look like. Going to pull the plugs now and see what they look like.

SatiricalHen

I guess I forgot to take a picture of a couple, but the only one that looked wet was plug 1 and the rest looked dry, but burned up the side or something
Edit: correction number 6 and 5. Counted from the wrong end

SatiricalHen

The fuel filter wasn't catching all the junk from the tank, causing the injectors to get stuck open or maybe they just dribbled in fuel so it couldn't be burnt. Anyway, new gas tank, new fuel filter and new to me injectors. Put a 330 ohm resistor in place of the IAT (closest resistor size I had to the 200 I had heard someone else had used) and it runs very very close to perfect. It has a very slight stumble occasionally, but if you aren't looking for it you probably wouldn't notice it. Not sure what that tells us testing wise though. Still idles high though

Jeepy2013

Ah.......Renix era XJ's........

Both Renix era XJ's I've owned had gremlins under the hood of one sort or another.

SatiricalHen

Threw a vacuum gauge on it today and it sat right at 19 in. At idle so I'm assuming there's no vacuum leaks causing the high idle