Remanufactured 4.0L
 

A memorial service will soon be scheduled for my 1990 4.0L. The oil pressure just won't stay where it should. Replacing the bearings and a high volume oil pump just didn't solve it. Interestingly, it finally decided to give me oil pressure fits after I fixed all its leaks (valve cover gasket, rear main seal, oil pan gasket.

Anyway, I've been looking around at remanufactured engines. Most are in the $1500 - 1800 range, and it looks like what the machine shops do is all standard stuff. Most carry a 3 year warranty. I'm not racing it, so I'm not looking for roller rockers or superchargers.

I'm making the call to all you cherokee experts. I want a remanufactured 4L that will give me another 200k miles. My local AutoZone has 'em rebuilt by Surefire for $1499 with a 3 year warranty. Buying from them will save me from paying shipping charges. Anyone with any experience on the subject want to weigh in and tell me that I should get the Surefire, or run another direction?

And a side question: I'm sick of replacing the expansion tank on this thing. Anyone have experience with the Moroso aluminum expansion tank swap? Is there a cheaper/better option? I'm not afraid to spend $80 on the tank, I just don't want to spend it and find there's one for $20 where the only difference is the sticker on the bottle.

Did you try the pipe cleaner through the sending unit hole? sludge could be the issue, if you are still wanting to try to fix your old one.

Rebuilding an old motor, IMO, is the better way to go as you'll be able to insure that quality parts are installed. This would be the more expensive route though.

Many remanufactured engines (even those built by Jasper) will use cheaper internal parts. Not saying this is necessarily a bad thing, but if I hope to get another 200K miles out of it I would want the same as OEM or better parts going into my engine. I've just recently finished my rebuild (all stock, sort of) and I was well over $2K.

Going the cheapest route isn't always the best choice, but it may be the only choice depending on your financial situation- but also keeping in mind the overall value of your Jeep.

Make sure any warranties are transferable if you decide you need to sell the Jeep or motor.

why not just put a JY motor in it with low miles?

Probably because low mileage JY motors are becomming rare- at least they are near me.

X2... Around here a low mileage one 140-150K.

Thanks for all the replies.

Pipe cleaner: At this point, I don't think sludge is the issue. The screen on the old pump looked clear. A quick wash in the parts cleaner revealed hard chunks of stuff hidden in that little protected area of the pickup. Removing the cap of a main or connecting rod bearing revealed bad contamination (grooves, embedded debris). The cam lobes looked just plain awful. It is time to put her down (and change the oil in the new one more often).

Rebuild myself: Man, how I'd love to do that vs. buying one pre-built. This has some problems with it, though:

1) Who has a reputable machine shop around Atlanta? How do I know if they're any better or worse than these "Surefire" guys?

2) Who are the higher quality parts manufacturers? I've worked around German engines, but not American. My knowledge of German parts manufacturers is dated. My knowledge of American parts manufacturers is non-existent.

3) What's the warranty? This is a minor issue, but still an issue. I firmly believe something I put together with quality parts will last longer than something someone else (that mass reproduces these things) does.

4) What is the cost? Quality parts do cost more. Without me being a jobber, I'll be paying retail for them too.

5) How long will it take? I can get a complete engine here in about a week. It once took me all summer to get a head back from a machine shop, as I was on the back burner because it was racing season. It doesn't hurt to have my toy sitting there, but I do want to be able to go out and play this spring.

So, the short conclusion is: "Thanks for the suggestion. It made me think. However I do think I'm going to get one already done." Perhaps I'll eat the core charge and rebuild this one while I run the new one. Doubtful though.

I'll take the money I save and put it towards other things. Wifey wants lockers, sway bar disconnects, new bumpers (just got the winch yesterday), and to add insult to injury, I bent a rim last week. I'm going to probably need all 4, as I doubt I'll find one that matches. That's kind of a good thing, though, as I can use 3 of my good rims on my old set of street tires. I could use those while I'm not wheeling.

Okay, I'm done rambling like an old man...

I'm not suggesting you go with these guys, I'm still doing some research, but for the price and warranty it looks like a pretty good deal.
http://www.jeepenginesales.com/Jeep_...mc-242lb-1.php

If I had found this before I build my engine I would have gone this route.

Any company that has been around for awhile will use part's that are just as good as you or a machine shop will use, I f they offer a 3 year warranty anyone can see it will be a decent motor, with the part's available today being either oem quality or better that they use, Cause they do list the parts used and all the machine work done to the motors,For someone to say that rebuilt motor's from any good company today are cheaply built, doesn't have a clue on this subject(sorry but be real), If the part's and spec's and machine work are listed they will be a good company to buy from, plus the 3 year warranty.

I don't think anyone was discrediting any rebuilder, although I am experienced enough in the matter that there are builders out there that will cut corners to save money and there are "cheap" parts that will not last as long as other better quality parts. Anyone who disagrees and thinks that all engine parts are the same no matter what they cost are clearly the ones without a clue.

X2

Out with the old, in with the remanufactured. It took some extra time to get out as one of the two E12 bolts was in bad shape. I will not be reusing it. Anyone replace theirs with a hex bolt?

I can't find a replacement E12 anywhere, and can't imagine a hex bolt being any more difficult to use. Can anyone advise me as to why I shouldn't replace this E12 with a hardened hex headed bolt?

I think most ppl swap those out for regular hex bolts, i did

I swapped them for a hex-headed bolt. It worked fine. I should hopefully have it running today... unless...

Along with the new clutch kit I ordered was a split pin. I can find no place for it. Where does it go? I'm hoping it is not needed on my truck, as the transmission is mounted and the truck is almost ready to start. I'll pull the transmission if I have to, but I figured I'd get the truck back into (almost) one piece, ask the trusty forums, and partially dismantle if necessary.

Where did you get yours from?