Kscha41

Thanks for the pic. I will have to pull the panel and check it out.

Waynerd

Not sure if u have this

Kscha41

Thanks for the pic. Yes, I have the manual but I do appreciate you taking your time to post that. But to me those diagrams are very confusing. Lol. Do you know if the wires run along the top or bottom going back up to the front of the jeep?

Waynerd

Bottom. Over rear wheel housing. Along the bottom inside of door openings under that piece of trim

Kscha41

Ok. Thanks. It will give me another place to look. This is turning into be a pain just to have a rear wiper.

Waynerd

Where did you test for voltage? Brown/pink should be constant power and brown/light green should be powered when switch is on. That is just to power the relay. Black/white is power to washer.

Kscha41

I tested for power at the harness that plugs into the motor. The one wire had 12 volts and the other wire (don't remember which one) had about 6 volts. I can recheck again to see. I do hear the relay click so I know that is getting power. Should both wires have 12 volts?

Waynerd

Check first wire brown/pink, key on switch off. Should read 12 or around there. Second wire brown/green key on switch on should read 12 also. Make sure to ground your meter to the body not the gate. The catch for the gate seems to work good as a ground. If that all checks out it's either a bad ground or I have heard instances where a solenoid will work but have worn or corroded contacts. So even though it clicks it may not be making good contact inside. The ground wire runs back through the same rubber boot to reach the left side of the body behind where the spare tire goes.

Kscha41

Thanks so much for the great info. I should get time this weekend to pull the panel off the gate for about the 100th time and I will recheck the volts at each wire. I also have the old relay I can try and swap out and see if that helps.

Waynerd

Good luck. I guess in some cases the wiper shaft could sieze and Need to be forced manually to get going and it is possible for the drive to strip out. But you said it was working off another power source so hopefully you'll get it figured out. Starting to bother me almost as bad as it is you. Lol

Kscha41

Well I had some time this afternoon and I checked for power at the brown pick wire and with the key on switch off I get nothing. And nothing at the brown green wire. As soon as I turned the switch on the brown pink wire had 6 volts and the brown green wire had 12.5 volts. So it seems like something is screwed up with the brown pink wire.

Kscha41

Just doing a little brain storming, could I just jumper power from the green wire to both the green and pink, this way as soon as I turn the switch on, they both have power?

Kscha41

Well my brain storming worked, sorta. I jumped the pink wire with the green wire back by the pigtail and I now have a rear wiper. The only thing I can see different by wiring it this way is if you turn the switch off half way threw the wiper sweep, the wiper will stop right where you turned it off. But no big deal, you just turn the switch back on and it parks it self right where it belongs. So in my book this problem is as fixed as it is going to get and thanks everyone for there help.

Waynerd

Ya the pink wire powers the wiper and the green powers the relay which when powered it completes the circuit and automatically shuts off when wiper is down. Now you've bypassed the relay sorta. If u ever feel like it u might want to check your splices. Sounds like too much resistance somewhere. Glad it's working.

Sails

Just to throw in my nickel's worth, I would seriously check the wires in the boot between the hatch and the body.
I had problems with my motor as well but it was very easy to diagnose.
Wiper didn't work, open the hatch and it worked just fine.
So it was obvious that my problem was in the boot.
I too have an 01 so age is about the same and I found that the wires in the boot were both cracked and dried out.
I fixed the problem by rewiring all 4 connectors.
I used the solder and heat shrink/tape method and although it was a pain and a fair amount of work it has all come out just fine.
I first tried going the connector route but found that it was too big and cumbersome.
I used a left over trailer wiring harness and some other primary wire for the heavier wires and was able to push it all through the boot.
I redid each connector individually since my spliced wires had repeating colour codes also the trailer wire was easy to push through the boot rather than the individual wires.
I had also had the latch issues with it not wanting to open so it was an all in one back hatch session.
I added a 10-24 nylock nut to the rod for the back hatch and hopefully that will stop a repeat of the issue.