KPCork

I've got the dreaded rear main seal leak. Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Engine only has 99K miles and oil pressure is great.

NAPA wants 17 for seal and 27 for one piece gasket.

Thanks

MasterShakeXJ

maybe the oil pan gasket. i've heard this is quite a pain to do, you have to take off the exhaust manifold because there are one or two bolts that are behind the down pipes that are nearly impossible to get to. and of course taking off the exhaust manifold requires removal of the intake manifold.

i've heard of people replacing the rear main seal on an XJ and having it still leak, so sometimes it might not be worth it.

http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/

X-J

Check to see that your valve cover bolts are tight, check the gasket.

nick_n_ii

You do not have to removed the exhaust manifold, I did mine, it is how ever a pain in the but to get the oil pan out from between the engine and axle. And mine was at 5.5" lift when I did it. I found that it was easier to replace it after I wiped the new rear main halves in dish soap. I ended up having to do it twice cause the first time I tor it putting it in. So buy 2 rear main seals.

I be leave Stryker on here also did his. So might try pming him for info also..

XJ Stryker

Please do not listen to this guy apparently he hasn't done a rearmain on a XJ.

Do not remove your exhaust manifold on anything silly like that!

I have done my rearmain if you need some coaching on it just ask!

3 leaks that are similar to Rear main.

Oil filter adapter, oil pan, and valve cover. But if you do the oil pan gasket you might as well do the rear main.

XJ Stryker

It is easy to get out if you unbolt the track bar!

Mudhunter241

just did mine and it was no problem. pull the pan, and your right there

BuckB91XJ

Disconnect the track bar, drag link, lower shock mounts, sway bar links. Jack the XJ up and put it on stands on the frame behind the frame end of the lower control arms. Let the front suspension hang as low as it will go. Now, you just remove the oil pan bolts and slide it out. Once you remove the oild pam bolts and gently pry it loose from the block, remove the oil pump pick up tube bolts and gently drop it into the pan. The pan will slide out much easier, now.

You will need to remove the farthest back main cap to get to the rear seal. The bottom half of the seal will be in the cap itself. The upper half is in a small groove in the block. Gently tap one side of the seal with a hammer and small screw driver or punch until the seal starts to come out the over side. Once there is a enough of it showing to grab with your fingers or pliars, just gently slide it out. Putting your new rear seal in is the reverse. I also recommend putting a dab of RTV on the ends of your upper and lower seal halves before reassembly.

nick_n_ii

That would have helped months ago...

XJ Stryker

Don't use a screwdriver PLEASE, Pick you up a brass punch or something you don't want to scratch anything up. Brass punches are not nearly as expensive as what a screwdriver can do if it slips.

BuckB91XJ

Good point, Stryker. I have to be careful passing on my Redneck ways....

KPCork

Strycker & Buck -- Thanks for the great tips!

I'm "pretty sure" it is the rear main seal beacuse it started all of a sudden and in a pretty good quantity, and had zero leaks before that. I haven't had the chance to put it on a lift yet to confirm it, but the parts are inbound.

Thanks again

KPCork

So I get it up on a lift and it looks like it's leaking from both the rear main seal AND the oil filter adapter. Sides of block are dry so I don't think it's the valve cover and the pan gasket is dry. I don't think it likes sitting out in the cold after years of garage living.

Off to search for "oil filter adapter leaks". I've got the seal and oil pan gasket in hand, but I may fix the OFA leak first and wait for opportunity on the rear main.

BuckB91XJ

I had the problem with the Oil Filter Adapter leaking, too. It's an easy fix. When you pull your filter, take the bolt out of the filter adapter that connects it to the block. The adapter will most likely come apart in your hand when you take the bolt out. Clean up all of the mating surfaces and slather them with fresh RTV and bolt it back on. Finish up the oil and filter change and you're good to go.
That sucks that your pan gasket is good because the pan has to come off to replace the rear main seal. I highly recommend buying one of the new 1 piece oil pan gaskets, though. They cost a little more but, the one I put in mine has worked way better then the old multi piece crap gaskets.

KPCork

Yea, that's how I feel too about breaking a good seal on the oil pan to fix the rear main. It's a 50/50 shot to get a good seal on both after putting it back together. I did get the one piece oil pan gasket, but I may just let the rear main seep for a while and fix the OFA and see how much of that is the cause.