Rear license plate inserts
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Rear license plate inserts
1993 Cherokee
So the threaded inserts for the rear plate didn't really hold bolts, well, one of them didn't, so I ordered new ones from Team Cherokee, and i put it in, tried to screw it in to crush it (so that it opens up and stays in the hole) but I can't get it to stop turning, I've even removed the light to reach around and hold it, but I can't get it.
Does anybody have any ideas on how to keep it from spinning and crush all the way properly?
So the threaded inserts for the rear plate didn't really hold bolts, well, one of them didn't, so I ordered new ones from Team Cherokee, and i put it in, tried to screw it in to crush it (so that it opens up and stays in the hole) but I can't get it to stop turning, I've even removed the light to reach around and hold it, but I can't get it.
Does anybody have any ideas on how to keep it from spinning and crush all the way properly?
#2
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
They might be the wrong size.
One thing you can try - sometimes these are pretty stiff, and need to be opened up a bit. Without trying to put it in place, just try holding the piece with a wrench or pliers, and screw the screw in to it all the way. You'll usually need three hands for this. Then back it out, and try putting it in again. That will open it up a bit and reduce the friction of the screw, making it less likely to turn on you.
One thing you can try - sometimes these are pretty stiff, and need to be opened up a bit. Without trying to put it in place, just try holding the piece with a wrench or pliers, and screw the screw in to it all the way. You'll usually need three hands for this. Then back it out, and try putting it in again. That will open it up a bit and reduce the friction of the screw, making it less likely to turn on you.
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There's supposed to be a little "friction wrench" that you use to hold the head still while you drive the bolt in. Most hardware stores that have the little Hillman bin stock system will have the wrench for about $2.
The last time I installed jack nuts like that, I was able to use my door panel remover in place of the friction wrench and it worked great. Another trick that usually works is giving the bolt a few quick bursts of the impact.
The last time I installed jack nuts like that, I was able to use my door panel remover in place of the friction wrench and it worked great. Another trick that usually works is giving the bolt a few quick bursts of the impact.
#4
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Year: 88
Engine: 4.0
Rear license plate inserts
You need to pop open the hatch panel, get a 2 inch screw same pitch, two washers, a jam nut or three nut same pitch. Insert one nut on the top and a washer, then thread the bolt into the rivnut. on the back side inside hatch. washer and the other two nuts or and the jam nut. Start unscrewing the bolt while holding the top nut it will put pressure on the rivnut to collapse it so farther down, unscrew top nut only and screw bolt back in to remove the inside bolts. That's one, way the other way go buy the tool for it, harbor sells a rivnut/blind hole puller gun. Even comes with 4 sets of 10 or so rivnuts.
Plus side make it simple and it's cheap down side depending on who make the rivnuts they can be a pain in the *** to collapse.
Plus side make it simple and it's cheap down side depending on who make the rivnuts they can be a pain in the *** to collapse.
#5
Since we have permanent plates on our Jeep, I'm thinking about just pulling off the damn inner panel and through bolting with lock nuts
Seems to be holding okay at present, but it bothers me that one screw won't go all the way in because the plastic insert is turning
Seems to be holding okay at present, but it bothers me that one screw won't go all the way in because the plastic insert is turning
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