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Rear Leaf spring bolts are stuck i need advice

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Old 07-17-2012, 07:14 PM
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Default Rear Leaf spring bolts are stuck i need advice

So, im installing a new lift in my cherokee and what I had figured was going to happen did. Now the 2 FRONT bolts that hold the leaf springs in on each side are stuck and are seized into the sleeve in the bushing but are moving when i torque on them and the slee,However there not backing out at all. I read a few posts on here having the same issue but no one really went into detail about if you had to cut them how to cut into the frame rail to free the nut? Like I said the bolts move but they are stuck in the sleeves which are spinning inside of the bushing.Any advice or links would greatly help I tryed searching on here and google and couldn't find anything in detail.

Last edited by CherokeeFD; 07-17-2012 at 07:16 PM.
Old 07-17-2012, 08:30 PM
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Just dealt with this- Couldnt get them to back out with a breaker bar. Using heat ( mapp torch) and a impact wrench got them to back out. Had to use a pry bar to get them out of bushing. Took forever!!!!
Old 07-17-2012, 08:33 PM
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heat will be your friend, try not to break the nuts too
Old 07-17-2012, 08:53 PM
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we jammed a big flat tip screwdriver into the back side of the bushing and pryed down on it to hold the sleeve from slipping and wrenched out the bolt...get a partner too do one of the two because it would be hard to get enough pressure with only one hand
Old 07-17-2012, 09:48 PM
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Thanks for the replys guys, It was odd because I got the drivers side bolt to break free then it came out about 1/4 of an inch and then the sleeve started turning. I do have a propane torch but that's it. Keep in mind I PB'd the heck out of all these bolts all last week to try an avoid this problem to no avail. I did lightly try and use a pry bar to separate the two but i felt it was to unsafe to do alone and my jack stands are not the greatest. Is there any advice on IF as a last resort i have to cut how i go about it?
Old 07-17-2012, 10:02 PM
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I don't know that it makes a difference since there's no way to know how much heat is enough, but propane only burns so hot. A previous poster suggested MAPP gas, and it will burned considerably hotter than propane.

Also, I've seen vibration work wonders for getting seized parts apart. The impact wrench that was mentioned may also be enough to break down whatever gunk/rust/etc that has bonded the two parts.

Good luck!
Old 07-17-2012, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CherokeeFD
Thanks for the replys guys, It was odd because I got the drivers side bolt to break free then it came out about 1/4 of an inch and then the sleeve started turning....
Same thing happened to me. The bolt just came out so far and then was turning and turning and eventually stripped the threads out. Had to hack saw thru it and then re-thread the hole and use a new bolt.
Old 07-17-2012, 11:59 PM
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If it's back out enough to get a pry bar in behind the head of the bolt, you can no doubt pry it out.
Old 07-18-2012, 12:15 AM
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Had same problem with 98. I took a 4.5 grinder with cutting blade,cut thru spring. destroyed the spring,but got the bolt out. If you keep spinning bolt it will damage the threads. It is a pain to rethread, and a quality tap is expensive . Always apply heat before you start removing spring bolts. Propane has work well for me. Broke the back spring bolt, before I caught on and it was apain to remove!!!!!!! Good luck!!!!!!
Old 07-18-2012, 12:36 AM
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I got mine out mostly and had to cut them out, and breaking the inner nut in the process.
Old 07-18-2012, 08:45 AM
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I pb'd and kano kroiled the hell out of them too, but in the end heat was my friend. Luckily mine didnt seize to the bushing sleeve. I think I had your issue until i finally broke down and went to the impact wrench. It only was going out so far before it was just spinning. Its amazing how fast the impact zipped it outta there once vibration was applied.
Old 07-18-2012, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ryan8551226
I pb'd and kano kroiled the hell out of them too, but in the end heat was my friend. Luckily mine didnt seize to the bushing sleeve. I think I had your issue until i finally broke down and went to the impact wrench. It only was going out so far before it was just spinning. Its amazing how fast the impact zipped it outta there once vibration was applied.
I did try my impact gun but I did not try heating it just because it was to damn hot out but i'm gonna give it hell today with the impact, heat and what ever PB I have left and hope for the best.
Old 07-18-2012, 08:55 AM
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I ground them off in about 3 min. (after screwing around with it for about an hour)
Old 07-18-2012, 09:37 AM
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This is how i did mine
a)Heat weld nut
b)With a breaker bar, i was able to break free the rust freeze
c)PB blast weld nut/bolt
d)Tighten bolt
e)Loosen bolt
f)repeat c - e until a good enough area between spring and frame is exposed
g)torch spring bushing and let it burn

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h)Scraped off burned bushing
i)Grip sleeve with a good vise grip (my cheapo HF was good enough after some bruised palm)
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j)Repeat c - e
Old 07-18-2012, 09:44 AM
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Thank you sir, Thats a great little walk thru and seems like its what my best bet is, so i'm gonna give it a try


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