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Rear Drum Brakes Do NOT Work!

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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #1  
Bouasman_19's Avatar
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From: st. louis
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default Rear Drum Brakes Do NOT Work!

Sorry looked all over the forums and yeah didn't see my problem about my brakes.


93 sport 2 door with like 140k miles.


This all started driver side master wheel cylinder went out. Got the part and new pads and new springs and fixtures for the drums in the back both sides. Put everything on cleaned it spot less. Did have a problem when I accidently pressed the brakes to much and popped a cup out of the wheel cylinder but put it back in and seemed to be fine and working. Now I have read adjusting rear brakes that it does it on its own? Brakes were fine after I put everything back together but few weeks later. Bam pedal to the floor the Red brake light is on, on the dash. No loss of fluid anywhere.




Here is what happens:
  • Pedal motor running goes to the floor does not pump up.
  • Pedal motor off pumps up but eventually you can force push it to the floor easily making the air sound brakes make.
  • Up on jack and in Drive press the pedal rear does not stop spinning.
  • Up on jacks and in 4wd press pedal front stops and rear, well front works obv making the rear stop as well.
  • I pulled the tires off looked at the drums had someone press the pedal they work. Seem they don't engage hard enough.
  • With the drum cover off remember it was spotless now it looks like crap. Grease everywhere, heard that could be a bad axel seal but I don't think that would cause the brakes to slip that bad to the point the pedal is soft to the floor.
  • E brake lever goes up doesn't make the click sound anymore also doesn't go down all the way freely. Have to work the lever up and down to get it all the way down. Yeah and the e brake doesn't work.
  • I bleed the brakes about 4 times the two person way with my friend.
  • I get plenty of brake fluid out on both sides. Every time I pump up the brakes and bleed them the pedal is good for a while then goes to crap again.
  • Pedal never stays hard no matter what.
  • No leaks on the rear anywhere on both sides. Hence first time master cylinder it was all over my tire.
  • The brakes do work when I press the pedal just not enough it seems.






From reading everybody's problem about the rear brakes not working 90% of the problem was they weren't getting fluid to the back. I get plenty. Bleed the brakes fine yet pedal is still to the floor after a while. Vacuum leak? I don't know I have read for hours and haven't found a post that is like mine. I may have forgotten some things that I have done to test my problems will post up if I remember them.

Last edited by Bouasman_19; Feb 28, 2015 at 03:32 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
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need more info.
did you just do any work to them recently?
if not, did they work recently and they just failed?

did you pull the drum to have a look inside?
is there any fluid on the inside sidewall of the rear tires?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 10:27 AM
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From: Oroville, CA
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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The wheel cylinders may be seized or the adjustment is way off. Have you even pulled the wheels off to look at the brakes yet?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 10:33 AM
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From: Traverse City, MI
Year: 1996
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Are you losing brake fluid from the master cylinder? Is the brake light on? Are they not engaging at all, or engaging but not releasing? Depending on what your symptoms are, could be lots of different things. Give some more details of what they are or aren't ding.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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SORRY BOYS. I had a whole list on here ready to go then I got logged out ill get it up in a few mins. I don't know why it logged me out sorry.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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Yeah caged I read a lot of posts with you in them with the brakes. I still don't think I found one with my problem yet.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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"Did have a problem when I accidently pressed the brakes to much and popped a cup out of the master cylinder but put it back in and seemed to be fine and working."

Bench bleed the MC, then bleed the brakes:
PR, DR, PF, DF & done.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
"Did have a problem when I accidently pressed the brakes to much and popped a cup out of the master cylinder but put it back in and seemed to be fine and working."

Bench bleed the MC, then bleed the brakes:
PR, DR, PF, DF & done.




I was wrong its not the master cylinder it was the wheel cylinder I replaced.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bouasman_19
I was wrong its not the master cylinder it was the wheel cylinder I replaced.
At any point did you allow the master cylinder to run dry?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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Pardon my confusion, but did you replace the master cylinder? If not, that's likely the problem. If you haven't replaced the master cylinder recently, replace it with a good quality example. It has nothing to do with vacuum. The seals in your master cylinder are just going out.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 06:06 PM
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and make sure the bleeder is above the brake line. if it's not, you have the wrong side installed.
this will get you your soft pedal with fluid still going to the rear.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 06:36 PM
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Okay sorry for the confusion it was the wheel cylinder I replaced on the back driver side. But now I went and replaced the master cylinder and I bleed each tire 2 times all air is out never let the reservoir run dry.


Now I took the brake booster hose that goes to the manifold to the booster off and bam pedal sucked up hard and as soon as I put the hose back on the boost the pedal went back to crap and to the floor. Is this normal?


My other option could be the wheel cylinder on the other passenger side rear drum has gone out since I didn't replace it when I did the other one.


But the brake booster whats that ordeal about.

Last edited by Bouasman_19; Feb 28, 2015 at 06:36 PM. Reason: miss spelling
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by caged
and make sure the bleeder is above the brake line. if it's not, you have the wrong side installed.
this will get you your soft pedal with fluid still going to the rear.


Bleeders are both above the lines on all four tires.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 10:44 PM
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It's always a good idea replace where cylinders and calipers in pairs.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
It's always a good idea replace where cylinders and calipers in pairs.
Yeah...college kid on a tight budget. lol but got a better job now so I'm good.
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