rotors?
#1
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Year: 1999
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rotors?
lots of shaking while braking @ high speeds... rotors warped eh??
looking at rotors from autozone, any reason to go with the more expensive rotors besides the warranty? duralast - $38 (2 yr war.), valucraft - $24 (1 yr war.). they look like the same exact rotor to me...
your input is appreciated. thanks
looking at rotors from autozone, any reason to go with the more expensive rotors besides the warranty? duralast - $38 (2 yr war.), valucraft - $24 (1 yr war.). they look like the same exact rotor to me...
your input is appreciated. thanks
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id buy the standard warranty..........Check your caliper slide pins well to make sure they arn't Stuck...........Grab a bit of Anti-seze and grease them....and torque your lugs to spec or with a Torque wrench...Over torqued Lugs are the #1 cause of warped rotors............
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if my caliper slide pins were stuck, would i feel the shaking at low speeds? i don't feel any shaking or warping at slow speeds, just at 60+.
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I always spring for the higher dollar rotors.. cheap junky imported rotors suck & they'll be warped within a matter of months.
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-DSEP-5115R/
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id buy the standard warranty..........Check your caliper slide pins well to make sure they arn't Stuck...........Grab a bit of Anti-seze and grease them....and torque your lugs to spec or with a Torque wrench...Over torqued Lugs are the #1 cause of warped rotors............
#9
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im a technicion ant let me tell you, we get more come back in about a month when they cheap out on rotors. if its a mud truck that your not gonna do to much driving sure they are great but if this is your dd deff spring for more. not saying go out and spend a million dollars but the cheap stuff is made of a softer metal hence the warping really easy
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thx. will go for better quality and will be sure to torque at correct settings.
will those drilled/holed rotors eat up my ceramic pads faster? i realize the point in trying to get rid of heat and dust, but i dont wanna be going through pads real quick...
if you were on a budget, what rotors & pads would you get and why?
will those drilled/holed rotors eat up my ceramic pads faster? i realize the point in trying to get rid of heat and dust, but i dont wanna be going through pads real quick...
if you were on a budget, what rotors & pads would you get and why?
Last edited by theo9805; 02-19-2010 at 12:11 PM.
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ceramic is a real hard compund. they shouldnt chip but I've never run them so I cant say for sure. check your rear shoes while your at it. I had a bad brake vibe a few weeks back, turned the rotors, pads were fine. looked at the rears, and my drivers side rear shoe had sheared off of the backing plate causing the vibe.
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thx. will go for better quality and will be sure to torque at correct settings.
will those drilled/holed rotors eat up my ceramic pads faster? i realize the point in trying to get rid of heat and dust, but i dont wanna be going through pads real quick...
if you were on a budget, what rotors & pads would you get and why?
will those drilled/holed rotors eat up my ceramic pads faster? i realize the point in trying to get rid of heat and dust, but i dont wanna be going through pads real quick...
if you were on a budget, what rotors & pads would you get and why?
You want to clean the caliper slide bolts really good, they should look like little mirrors.
They absolultely need to be clean and smooth.
Then grease them up good with actual caliper grease, it's made to take the high heat, high friction environment, and still function at 100%.
If you have sticky or slow/rough/messed up/bent caliper slide bolts, the calipers might bind, and hold one or both of the pads against the rotor. When that happens, it heats up the rotor really bad, causing it to warp.
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