Mechanically Declined

My brakes lost almost all pressure, got the break light on, no brake fluid left in tank. I figure its a break line leak so I get to Midas after work for a diagnostic..

Wow, I about have a heart attack at a $1,300 quote for rear break, differential fluid fix (Along with transmission housing, coolant flush). I expect Midas to jack up prices but they really keep out doing themselves. SO, looks like I'm buying the parts for this fix and taking it to a mechanic I've used before.

Here is where I need some guidance....My rear right brakes have been saturated by brake and differential fluid. So far I will need to new shoes, drums (9in), calipers?, wheel cylinder, axle seal (dana 30), Brake fluid. What am I forgetting? Also, I will need to do both sides of the rear correct? 2 of everything?

Any help very appreciated.

Garrett S.

Well you don't need calipers. Those are on the front. When you buy shoes they come in a set for both sides. You also don't necessarily need new drums but it's not a bad idea to replace them. Have you ever done drum brakes before? It helps to only take one side apart at a time so you have something to look at when you put it back together.

PatHenry

I think he mentioned he's taking to a shop but buying the parts.

I'm a little concerned that you have a saturation of both brake fluid AND gear oil (diff fluid). If you have gear oil coming out of the rear axle, you probably need AT LEAST a new wheel bearing and seal. Your rear axle is either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 (aka C8.25). The bearing and seal are specific to the axle, so you need to determine which axle it is. There is a sticky I believe with pictures that are pretty obvious. If you look under and it's distinctly flat across the bottom then it's a C8.25 (which is the better axle of the 2.)

Edit - Sticky is: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/axle-info-148057/

Once you know the axle type, I would get new wheel bearings/seals for BOTH sides since you have to open up the differential anyway and you might as well spend the extra $15 in parts since labor is going to be about the same either way.
Then you will need at a minimum:
New brake shoes
Whatever is broken with the brakes (a new line, new wheel cylinder).
Brake fluid
Gear oil.

It may be difficult to find someone to machine the drums, plus if you're opening up everything that you're opening up, it's foolish to put worn parts back on when they are relatively cheap (and certainly will be much less than the labor).
So I would HIGHLY recommend doing both sides with:
New shoes
New Drums (they're not that expensive)
New hardware/spring kit
New wheel cylinders
New self-adjusters

As far as the leaking gear oil (aka differential stuff), I'd be a little worried that it's leaking there. There's a possibility that the axle shaft may have worn irregularly and then there's the possibility that there's a "correction" kit available (with varied sized parts to compensate for the damage) or you might be looking at a new axle shaft. If that happens you may well hit 1300 anyway.
If it's just a bad seal - ok, but they will still have to pull the axle shaft out, so that's a non-trivial fix.

You don't necessarily need the coolant flush and transmission service - or at least these are things that you can probably wait on until you've recovered from the brake repair. Of course, I'm assuming these are just "scheduled services" they are pushing and that they didn't identify any specific reason for concern in those areas.

I completely redid my rear brakes (all the brake parts, plus a line replacement, plus e-brake cables) and the parts were roughly $250 for everything (buying standard, non-fancy parts). In your case -30 for the cables but + 30 for new wheel bearings and seals, so still roughly $250.

Mechanically Declined

Fantastic response thank you. I'll add on the hardware kit and adjusters per your list. I would have to have a new wheel bearings? Those are hefty. My axle is a Chrystler 8.25.

What you said about axle is very worrisome. I have head differential leaks before in different areas. I would hate to be down an entire axle shaft.

Waynerd

A complete hardware kit here is cheap. 5th one down. Also I wouldn’t worry too much about the axle shaft as long as the bearing hasn’t been grinding or howling there’s a good chance the shaft is fine.

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...dware_kit.html

Red1992XJ

Not trying to nitpick or be harsh, but what (other than Midas say so) makes you think you have a differential problem? I know you say there is differential fluid saturation on the brakes? Sometimes these shops may not be 100% correct. Friend of mine got a $3200 estimate to fix a problem (cel evap leak), that I cleared once and never came back (8 months and counting).

Mechanically Declined

Well after buying the parts for about $200, I'm spending a total of a little over $800 for this. I was really hoping the labor cost would end up being a lot cheaper than this but without being able to do it myself I guess its better that $1,100 -1,300. Is this a terrible deal or decent? Mechanic said it was a pain of a job.

PatHenry

It sounds reasonable. My mechanic quoted 4 hours (or $400 in other words) for the rear brakes and line replacement - (so $650 with parts)
If you add in the differential drain/fill and pulling the axle shaft out it's not unreasonable to think a 6 hour job.