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Really need help w BTSI - gear shift reconnect
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c3afc9d76.jpegSpring loaded tooth not engaging https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2de6ba7c2.jpegView from rear with new spring https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1c43dc166.jpegAuto Trans shift cable on left Brake-Transmission Shift Interlock cable on right https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6eb111371.jpegBoth cables in position on stays https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ba3b477e1.jpegRod connecting BTSI cable to ignition key cylinder assembly I have been struggling to get my 91 XJ shifter hooked back up and working properly. I removed the center console and rolled back carpet to replace power seat wiring which was all corroded. Since putting that all back together I am hopelessly confused as my shifter will move without key or in any key position regardless of what I have tried. I lowered the the steering column and took apart the ignition lock cylinder assembly under the steering wheel thinking the lock cylinder was worn out and contributing to the problem. The new lock cylinder seem to work less smoothly and less effectively than the old one so I put the old back in. I have tried endlessly disconnecting and trying to adjust the “self adjusting” Brake Transmission Shift Interlock cable to no avail. Have filed a straight edge on the interlock piece (tooth) which meshes with the notched arc over the spring loaded mechanism. Got a new spring - no joy. Would really appreciate a response from someine who has dealt with this shifter problem. Most people experience this issue with the shifter not moving. I have the inverse problem. Thanks |
Did you ever figure this out? I have an 02' 4.7 WJ and have been having no start issues (no click, no nothing). New Starter, Battery, Battery wiring, Ignition switch, ignition actuator and still the same thing. It's will start first thing for the day but then after it's warm it won't and I have to jump it by putting wires into the starter relay under the hood. Research says Neutral Safety Switch with the 4.7 doesn't have, it's a cluster solenoid attached to the valve cover in the transmission.
Now the weird part, I read a UK forum where the guy said he holds the key in the start position and stomps on the brake to start the WJ; it worked for me! not every time but enough for me to think something may be going on with the steering column (loose wires, faulty electrical, etc) which is why I'd like to hear how it resolved for you. It should be known that my key is loose in the ignition cylinder, I can take it in or out at any time, running or not. Also if the door is open and key inserted, it won't audibly chime unless I press the key further into the key well and keep pressure on it. Thanks for any insight anyone can provide. |
Originally Posted by sdjp
(Post 3496145)
Did you ever figure this out? I have an 02' 4.7 WJ and have been having no start issues (no click, no nothing). New Starter, Battery, Battery wiring, Ignition switch, ignition actuator and still the same thing. It's will start first thing for the day but then after it's warm it won't and I have to jump it by putting wires into the starter relay under the hood. Research says Neutral Safety Switch with the 4.7 doesn't have, it's a cluster solenoid attached to the valve cover in the transmission.
Now the weird part, I read a UK forum where the guy said he holds the key in the start position and stomps on the brake to start the WJ; it worked for me! not every time but enough for me to think something may be going on with the steering column (loose wires, faulty electrical, etc) which is why I'd like to hear how it resolved for you. It should be known that my key is loose in the ignition cylinder, I can take it in or out at any time, running or not. Also if the door is open and key inserted, it won't audibly chime unless I press the key further into the key well and keep pressure on it. Thanks for any insight anyone can provide. |
Originally Posted by sdjp
(Post 3496145)
Did you ever figure this out? I have an 02' 4.7 WJ and have been having no start issues (no click, no nothing). New Starter, Battery, Battery wiring, Ignition switch, ignition actuator and still the same thing. It's will start first thing for the day but then after it's warm it won't and I have to jump it by putting wires into the starter relay under the hood. Research says Neutral Safety Switch with the 4.7 doesn't have, it's a cluster solenoid attached to the valve cover in the transmission.
Now the weird part, I read a UK forum where the guy said he holds the key in the start position and stomps on the brake to start the WJ; it worked for me! not every time but enough for me to think something may be going on with the steering column (loose wires, faulty electrical, etc) which is why I'd like to hear how it resolved for you. It should be known that my key is loose in the ignition cylinder, I can take it in or out at any time, running or not. Also if the door is open and key inserted, it won't audibly chime unless I press the key further into the key well and keep pressure on it. Thanks for any insight anyone can provide. |
Tested
thank you, yes I have. I’ve also switched it out with multiple other relays under the hood as a lot are the same. My original starter relay tests out fine and functions the wipers, fuel pump, etc. |
How did we go from a 91 XJ with a shifter that doesnt stay locked, to a 2007 WJ that wont start?
Oh. |
BTSI
Hello, WJ’s ran from 99-04. However after much searching there isn’t a lot out there concerning Jeep BTSI. It is my intent to keep focused on BTSI and it’s operating principles, however I have included my particular situation in case anybody has some productive insights to share. |
Finally solved my shifter issue
Sorry For the delay in responding. I posted 3 times looking for help but never really got much. I finally figured out my issue was simple but kind of odd - the mechanical shifter with the arched gateway and spring loaded “tooth” was worn out or messed with previously, thus it would no longer function. The tooth engages a notch and this prevents a) shifting out of park if the key is not in the on/run position and b) prevents moving the shifter from N to R, nor R to P while key is in run position. I got a shifter from a junkyard and swapped out the old. Replacement shifter worked immediately without any cable adjustment or other issues. The tooth in the old shifter was about 3/8 inch shorter then the junkyard shifter. I would say mine was worn but the tooth had no significant groove worn in it, and since it is wider than the notched arch above it I’m wondering how it could have worn evenly across its width? My key cylinder/shifter “interlock” system is all mechanical. There is no solenoid in mine as I originally thought but is in latter years from what I have gathered on the web. I thought mine may have had one but it’s not there. I know a professional mechanic who has a 94 and his is all mechanical also. Possibly after 2001 but I’m not certain. Regarding your WJ, it sounds like a ground or NSS-like problem. I’m new to Cherokees but isn’t there a known ground problem with these rigs? I wanna say there is a ground strap towards rear of engine which is a common fail point. Tjanks, Franz |
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