Epk5150

I recently changed my oil pan gasket with a Felpro one and forgot to use sealant so of course it is leaking still. My question is, can I reuse it? I would like to just drop the pan again, clean it up, and reinstall with sealant. Can this be done?

drhoward1988

Did you use the felt or rubber gasket? I used the rubber one and didn't use any sealant and haven't had any issues with it leaking.

CompleteCherokee

if rubber, you should be ok to reuse. make sure to do several things:

1. use some brake cleaner on a lint-free rag and wipe down the block mating surface, the pan mating surface, and use a clean rag to wipe down the rubber gasket. Then, when reinstalling, make sure to torque the bolts to factory spec, and NOT to 'tight' or whatever 'feels right'. Over-tightening can cause a leak as bad or worse than not tight enough.

Epk5150

Its the rubber one. It is leaking close to wear the rear main seal is. It only leaks when running as there are no drips on the driveway.

RTorrez1

Are you 100% sure it leaking from the oil pan and not from the valve cover, oil filter adapter and dripping down the back?

Epk5150

Its the valve cover too, but to make things simpler I only asked about the one. I degreased the hell out of the engine and monitored it daily. I am pretty sure thats the only places its leaking.

cruiser54

You're sure, huh? 100%?

I install those gaskets using either nothing, or some GasgaCinch.

CompleteCherokee

permatex300 works well there too

Fred/N0AZZ

With any rubber gaskets (valve cover, pan) I personally never use sealer nor with the premium Cork with steel liner valve cover gaskets that are reusable. I use them for a full season on my race cars removing each race to remove stud girdles and run the valves (roller setup). I do have a pan gasket for a SBC like this also they are not cheap either one.

Epk5150

Well I am open to suggestions. I have replaced both the valve cover and the oil pan gaskets with Felpro rubber ones and they are both still leaking. I admit the oil pan gasket is hard to keep lined up during install but I think I got it in there straight. Both are leaking on a spot towards the rear of the vehicle. In a month the oil level went from just over the full line to about halfway between the add and full lines.

CompleteCherokee

for the leaks, how did you prep the mating surfaces before installing? did you tighten to factory specs using an inch pound wrench, or did you cinch them up until they felt tight? have you pulled the pan and checked with a straightedge to make sure the mating surface is smooth & even?

autosurgeon

Follow the directions on the gasket box or instructions in the box. A small dab of black rtv on the seam between the rear main bracket and block on both sides and the same in the timing chain cover seams on the front. No sealer anywhere else. And as mentioned you MUST torque per standards listed including the pattern required if available for the component.

autosurgeon

Yes you should be able to reuse the gasket if it was not over tightened the first time and damaged. I would wash it with simple green and a hose blow it off with compressed air and inspect carefully before reinstalling.

CompleteCherokee

also, lots of folks like to use a few bolts at the front to hang the pan and then pivot it up to bolt in the rear bolts (to get them all started). Be careful as this can cause a few issues:
1. smear the rtv at the front
2. smear the rtv at the rear
3. shift the gasket
4. bend the pan rail slightly, but enough to eventually leak

I like to get some threaded rod or long bolts the same size as the pan bolts, and start them into the holes. Then line everything up and slide it on, then install 4 nuts by hand. That way I can slowly raise the pan & gasket into place evenly, without having to hold the pan and try to start bolts by hand.

Fred/N0AZZ

This is very important if you have not done so and the need to tighten in sequence also. I'm sure most tire of my engine buildings ways but I use ARP studs on everything from pan to valve cover gaskets and would not even consider not using them on everything internal as well in the engine.

I replace these on each new engine but keep the old ones as they are not cheap and use them on other non-critical apps when I can, like other engines etc. Studs make gaskets and alignment of pans, covers much easier to handle.

You don't have to use ARP fasteners but any studs are a good investment on anything you may work on often, saves on block and the threads.